building a collector
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building a collector
im trying to make my first collector for the manifold for my prelude, but i cant seam to get it right. does anyone happen to have some helpfule tips, or even some pics. of setups, or guides. how do you guys mount your material to be cut on a band saw. any help would be great.
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Re: (RC000E)
Heres a templet I found on here a while ago. Just make the bottom length equivalent to the outer circumference of the piping (easy way to figure out the circumference is to multiply the outer diameter by Pi), wrap it around the pipe and cut at the lines.
#6
Re: building a collector (extream_86)
I asked this question about a week or so ago and got two responses. I searched like a hound dog and found nothing. My second response someone said to use PVC or ABS pipe to practice with, I did and it helped alot this seems like a very closely guarded technique. I am using a horizontal bandsaw with an adjustable jig that I made. Practice practice and patience and accuracy and practice.
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#8
Re: building a collector (B20luda)
I seriously think I can make mo money selling the info on how to make collectors than I could if I was to actually sell the collector! HMMMMM!
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Re: building a collector (jonsayre)
Guides on making a collector....that's a bit much. Plain and simple, you need two cuts, 90 degrees of each other, and on some angle. The angle is up to you depending on the seperation you want in order to reach the runners.
The key to figuring out your jig is figuring out how to accurately rotate your pipe 90 degrees after the first cut. I can tell you that my jig started as a piece of square tubing that I cut down to "fit" the pipes to be cut. The pipe is secured in three locations so it doesn't move during cutting. And I attach something to the pipe I cut, so I can accurately rotate it with no guess work or measuring, etc. The angle was just the angle I wanted, which determined where the jig sits in relation to the path of the bandsaw blade.
I posted big diagrams and all kinds of stuff before, so (to the other dude) if you said you searched.....you couldn't have searched too well or hard, because there is alot of info out there.
The key to figuring out your jig is figuring out how to accurately rotate your pipe 90 degrees after the first cut. I can tell you that my jig started as a piece of square tubing that I cut down to "fit" the pipes to be cut. The pipe is secured in three locations so it doesn't move during cutting. And I attach something to the pipe I cut, so I can accurately rotate it with no guess work or measuring, etc. The angle was just the angle I wanted, which determined where the jig sits in relation to the path of the bandsaw blade.
I posted big diagrams and all kinds of stuff before, so (to the other dude) if you said you searched.....you couldn't have searched too well or hard, because there is alot of info out there.
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Re: (paulzy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that template belongs to RMF</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm pretty sure Randy was the one that posted it one here a while back.
I'm pretty sure Randy was the one that posted it one here a while back.
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Re: (paulzy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Randy is/owns RMF </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah it was randy.
I use a chop saw and dont use a jig...and my **** is straight baller. true story.
Randy is/owns RMF </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah it was randy.
I use a chop saw and dont use a jig...and my **** is straight baller. true story.
#15
Re: building a collector (RC000E)
RC000E you were right about me not searching hard enough. I am fairly new to this sight and moments after I posted that I realized that there was a timeline of how far back you could search, nonetheless I found alot more info that I spent about 3 more hours reading. This forum is a great tool!
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Re: (paulzy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Randy is/owns RMF </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know, thats why I wrote it
Randy is/owns RMF </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know, thats why I wrote it
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How are you guys welding the middle spot in between the 4 pieces of the collector? Do you just cut a diamond piece, stick in in the middle, and weld around that?
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Re: (socalismylife)
i bought a collector since my bandsaw is out of commission, is it normal for it to not have good fitment to the t3 flange, its overlaps on the short side and is .25"-.5" short on the long side.. do you just squish it in a vice? weld fully first?
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#20
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i'm sorry, but that paper cut out is going to make for an awful lot of waste for whoever uses it. anyone with half a brain will realize it is going to make the collector come down to a single point like a 4 sided pyramid and have to cut the end off it for the port to match the turbo flange. this might work if you have a circular port on the turbo flange you are using, but otherwise it isn't going to be much help. i'm working on a writeup for an alternative way to make them that works for me.
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Re: building a collector (project dc2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got 100+ 3" collectors with 2.5 outlets in stock PM me for price</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha, banking on him to give up eh? thats priceless
Hahaha, banking on him to give up eh? thats priceless
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Re: (socalismylife)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by socalismylife »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are you guys welding the middle spot in between the 4 pieces of the collector? Do you just cut a diamond piece, stick in in the middle, and weld around that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Practice Practice Practice good gas coverage and more practice.
Steps i take to weld mine.
- take 1 half, run 4 really good takes on the outside seam.
- Take a C vice or table vice to pull the two 1/4s together tight, then place two tacs on the inner seam
- Repeat for the other
- Place the two halves together and once again put into a Vice after you square them up.
- Place two on the inner seam and 4 good tacs on the outer seam.
- Take pliers inside the tacked collector and make sure the 4 seams meet well together
- Extend your tungsten down into the collector and pre-purge the area, then tack the tip of the collector.
- Set up your backpurge on the collector and let the purge run for 10-15 seconds then put your Lighter next to the area(s) you pokes for argon to escape. If its purged. (I set my purge at 15) your ready.
- Get a good 1 inch weld on all 4 outside seams.
**remember to gap all pieces or bevel all pieces you help archive complete penetration.**
- Take your filler ride and cut 5-6 SMALL pieces (1mm each) and drop them down into the cavity where all for unite.
- Pre-purge the area, then with the tungsten extended, start a puddle using the filler you placed prior, When ready weld a 1/4 inch up each inner seam in the cavity.
- Bring your tungstun back up into the cup to help keep the weld pool shielded and start where you left off, welding up to the crest on all 4 seams.
- finish from there.
If you set it up correctly, you should have full penetration with a sealed seam from outside - In.
Here are some old pictures so you can see the end result w/o the use of a filler plate.
5inch collector (my Ramhorn)
3inch collector (my Mini Ram)
Practice Practice Practice good gas coverage and more practice.
Steps i take to weld mine.
- take 1 half, run 4 really good takes on the outside seam.
- Take a C vice or table vice to pull the two 1/4s together tight, then place two tacs on the inner seam
- Repeat for the other
- Place the two halves together and once again put into a Vice after you square them up.
- Place two on the inner seam and 4 good tacs on the outer seam.
- Take pliers inside the tacked collector and make sure the 4 seams meet well together
- Extend your tungsten down into the collector and pre-purge the area, then tack the tip of the collector.
- Set up your backpurge on the collector and let the purge run for 10-15 seconds then put your Lighter next to the area(s) you pokes for argon to escape. If its purged. (I set my purge at 15) your ready.
- Get a good 1 inch weld on all 4 outside seams.
**remember to gap all pieces or bevel all pieces you help archive complete penetration.**
- Take your filler ride and cut 5-6 SMALL pieces (1mm each) and drop them down into the cavity where all for unite.
- Pre-purge the area, then with the tungsten extended, start a puddle using the filler you placed prior, When ready weld a 1/4 inch up each inner seam in the cavity.
- Bring your tungstun back up into the cup to help keep the weld pool shielded and start where you left off, welding up to the crest on all 4 seams.
- finish from there.
If you set it up correctly, you should have full penetration with a sealed seam from outside - In.
Here are some old pictures so you can see the end result w/o the use of a filler plate.
5inch collector (my Ramhorn)
3inch collector (my Mini Ram)
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