MalcolmV8

Hey Guys,

My second gear jumps out of gear so something is hosed. I ordered shifter bushings to see if that cures it in case it's just to much slop and falling out but seems like it might be unlikely.

Local yards want $400 for a 150k mile used manual tranny. So I figured I'd tear mine apart and try rebuilding it. Where do I get a rebuild kit of bearings etc. from? when search google I just find tons of automatic rebuild kits.

Also are there any how to videos that walk you through the process and have all the specs for the tranny? I used one of those when rebuilding my mustang tranny and it worked great.

Thanks
Malcolm

Honda Bull

If the damage is extensive, you'll probably have more than $400 into repair to do it right. It might be easier to pick up another trans.

But, if you indeed go that route, see Dave @ Synchrotech. http://www.synchrotech-transmissions.com/ They will help you out with whatever you may need in this regard.

You may just have something as simple as a countershaft bearing issue for it to fall out of 2nd. So just get in there and see what you may have to do. Purchase a Helms factory service manual. Will have all the info you need.

MalcolmV8

Yeah the junk yard tranny for $400 is temping but I could just be buying someone else's troubles too. It could whine, grate gears and who knows what. It's a total crap shoot. I figure if I tear this one apart and replace all the bearings and what not. At least I know what I'm dealing with and it'll probably work decent.
On the other hand the 150k mile $400 unit could also work fine lol. Not sure what I should do.

MalcolmV8

Since the tranny will be out either way. What's a good upgrade in clutch while I'm in there? I plan on boosting the motor very soon so something stronger than stock.

MalcolmV8

Humm salvage yard said he'd give me my money back if I don't like the tranny or swap out for another as many times as I want (my labor of course). Might be easier than trying to repair my existing one.

94EG8

They're pretty simple to rebuild. If it's not grinding and just popping out of second the countershaft bearing probably walked out. Normally all I do is replace whatever bearings are bad, inspect and replace synchros/sleeves/hubs/gears as necessary and replace the input shaft seal and axle seals.

If the CSB has walked make sure you stake it in there with a center punch once you tap it back into place. I'd also check the 3rd/4th shift fork they tend to wear badly in Y7/Y8 transmissions (this isn't causing your issue, just something you might want to check)

David @ Synchrotech

iTrader: (1)

We have completely remanufactured D series transmissions for not much more than the Junk yard 150K unit. I will PM you with a discounted Honda-Tech price.

MalcolmV8

That's a pretty good deal. Some shops are just crazy. One local shop said they could rebuild my tranny for $1400 lol. I asked what if I bring the tranny in to save on some labor and he wouldn't even do it that way. The difference between shops I got quoted ranged a lot. Glad to see you're offering reasonable prices.

Do you sell just parts? like if I take this one I have apart and find some bearings, syncro's or what ever I need to replace can you sell just the parts at a decent price?

Thanks

David @ Synchrotech

iTrader: (1)

Yes we sell parts - take a look on our website and if you do not see what you need just give me a call.

MalcolmV8

Hey Guys, tranny is stuck. I removed 4 upper 17 mm bolts, one upper 19 mm bolt on back side, and 1 lower bolt on the firewall side from the underside. There were also 2 bolts that held the engine stiffner brackets to the tranny. Also 2 small bolts that held the clutch dust shield on.
3 bolts from tranny to mounting bracket on firewall side
3 bolts from tranny to mounting bracket on radiator side
removed bracket on passenger's wheel side to tranny.

It's stuck solid. I can't remove it for squat lol. What am I missing? I hammered on it, pried with screw drivers, pry bar etc. I think I'm missing something somewhere but what?

MalcolmV8

I found this how to with pics and even though it's 90-95 it seems to match my 98 and I get every bolt they show so I think mine is just stuck and needs some motivation to get off.

http://www.wonderbart.com/honda-civi...removal-guide/

Honda Bull

Does a starter bolt go through trans to engine block on the D-series? I can't remember. Don't pull those enough. lol But get the starter off of there.

Also, what mounting brackets are you talking about?

94EG8

Yes, one of them does. I always just pull the whole starter though.

'92 - '95 are very similar to '96 - '00, transmissions are actually interchangeable. Sometimes the dowel pins stick and you need to tap the case around them gently with a hammer. If it really doesn't want to come though chances are you missed a bolt somewhere.

MalcolmV8

Oh nice a starter bolt goes into the motor? shoot figures. I checked Haynes manual and it doesn't say a thing about removing the starter. I knew I should have just taken it off anyways. I'll do that tonight and see if that makes it come off.

BagD72Chevy

I just pulled one Saturday and it was jammed too. There was a 17mm ( I think) by the driver's side axle output that I missed. And yeah, one starter bolt goes through to the block.

MalcolmV8

Sure enough the one starter bolt went all the way through into the block. That was it guys.

Transmission is out



Not really sure what's wrong with the transmission yet. It did make whining noises before pulling it apart like bearings where going out or possibly it's gear whine too. Shift forks looks straight and normal. Syncros amazingly are in good shape. I figured they'd be all grated up and shot from the times it's popped out of second and made that horrible grating sound.
There is one bearing on the end of a shaft that looks to be in real bad shape. Check out the video to see a bit of what I found in the tranny

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GM2XcbBEpFk

94EG8

Top countershaft bearing is definitely bad, diff appears normal. I can't tell for sure in the video, but the I see in the pic loose ball bearings floating on the top mainshaft bearing and in the video it appears the ISB bearing in the clutch housing is possibly missing *****, I can't tell for sure though.

The big thing to check in regards to synchros is the clearance between the synchro and the gear. The teeth can look good but the pads on the inside of the synchro will be worn out.

As far as the shift forks go the 3rd/4th fork typically wears where it goes around the sleeve/slider.

MalcolmV8

Cool. I was worried diff was no good. Could that very loose top bearing on the counter shaft have been cause for it to jump out of second gear?

Yeah it's hard to tell in the vid but no ball bearing ***** are missing anywhere. I checked them all over pretty good hoping that was the problem.

Can I just put a feeler gauge between the syncro and the gear on the shaft? what should I be reading?

Is that something I can see with my eyes or is the wear so slight you need to use a micrometer and compare to factory specs?

94EG8

Yes, it can.

I forgot to ask but did you remove the 3 detent bolts and the springs and ball bearings behind them (because if you didn't that would totally explain 3 random steel ball bearings floating around inside the transmission, also, i think I forgot to mention it, but you'll need 3 new crush washers for those detent bolts)

Yes, normally I just eye them up, but I've done quite a few of them, i'll check the FSM tomorrow and get you some specs.

I usually slide the fork into the slider and look at the how loose it is, if you aren't used to doing these though you'll have to measure the thickness of the fork with a vernier scale/caliper. I'm sure i'll get flamed for this but normally I just weld on the forks and grind them down if they're out of spec (they aren't made from hardened steel so they shouldn't be any softer than they were originally)

MalcolmV8

Well hopefully that was the cause of my second gear jump and I also hope the various noises coming from the tranny were nothing more than bearing noises. It would seem so at this point.

I did find those three random ball bearings as soon as I opened the case but quickly figured out what they were. I didn't realize I'll need three new crush washers for them though. That's good to know.


Cool. Appreciate it man.

If it works it works man. Like you say if they're not hardened it may not be the worst thing in the world for them lol.

So it seems a basic rebuild kit which includes bearings and syncro's is $250 + shipping. Is there a way to just buy a bearing kit if my syncros are still fine? If I could find the bearings cheaper that would make closing up this tranny a ton cheaper.

94EG8

This should do the trick (assuming it's a DX/LX transmission,if it's an EX the price is the same but it's a different kit): http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...It-BSK-D15.htm

David @ Synchrotech

iTrader: (1)

This transmission uses the BSK-D16 (EX) kit since it has the black speedo gear on the differential indicating the 40mm bearings and larger shaft bearings. http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...It-BSK-D16.htm

MalcolmV8

The car is an EX. I will have to do my home work and be sure that all I need is bearings but that may be a good deal for me.

Is there an online manual for this transmission? like a rebuild manual of sorts?

David @ Synchrotech

iTrader: (1)

The Helms factory service manual is best: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...307&itemtype=N

MalcolmV8

Do you offer any honda-tech discounts on rebuild parts? or is it only on the complete re manufactured transmissions? So far I need the transmission bearing kit and I'm going to get the differential bearings too since I'm in there.

Still waiting on my service manual to get specs on the syncros and other things to check to see if I need other parts as well or not.