unhappy_idle

Does the 1988 ACCORD HAVE A FITV? and a IACV?

My 1988 ACCORD LX ( carb) has a very very fast idle.
Initially when the car starts the idle is at approximately 1200rpm but then after a
couple of minuted goes upto 2000 rpm and sometimes 2500 - 3000 rpm.

After 20 minutes the engine is warm as inicated on the dashboard meter but still
the idle is extremely fast. If the acceletrator is depressed gently the car idles even
faster.

After absolute loss of patience, putting the Trans into gear, the car will lope along
at 35 miles/hr with my leg OFF the acclerator. Sometimes 12-15 miles later the car revert back to normal iodling 750- 900 rpm, and at other times it still remains in
fast idle. Performance while the car is in this fast idle mode really sucks, apart from
the racket the car makes while it is bieng driven.

This problem is a lot worse on extremely cold winter days ( like that the mid-west is experiencing now)

Any ideas???





Modified by unhappy_idle at 9:22 AM 2/10/2006

Scott_Tucker

What led up to this problem? By that I mean was it running OK and then all of the sudden it started doing this or did you have some repair work (even if you think it is not related) done and then it started doing it.

machine4321

had one of those (4 acctually) and i had to lift the pedal at idle it it slowed it down (it was a sticky cable )

try it , if that doesnt do it then press th elinkage right at the car and see

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unhappy_idle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does the 1988 ACCORD HAVE A FITV? and a IACV?

My 1988 ACCORD LX ( carb) has a very very fast idle.
Initially when the car starts the idle is at approximately 1200rpm but then after a
couple of minuted goes upto 2000 rpm and sometimes 2500 - 3000 rpm.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
One of the first things I would check is the operation of the frequency control valve c. Temporarily rerouting the vacuum lines to it is a good check.

unhappy_idle

The problem just started off like this.
MY muffler pipe fell off at the doiugh-nut after the catalytci converter.

I had the muffler replaced and that was about it for repairs since I started seeing this problem maybe a month or so ago, on cold days.

unhappy_idle

I tried lifting the pedal, no change in behaviour.

This week-end I changed the following ( as part of a tune-up)

- air filter
- breather filter
- PCV valve
- spark plugs
- Rotot
- Distributor cap
- Fuel filters

I also cleaned the Thermo-valve and the door on the air-filter housing with carb
cleaner, to ensure that the linkage and the door and valve moved freely.

I checked out the diaphragm on the EGR valve, it also seems ok.
I checked out the throttle cable linkage and used carb cleaner ( it was not dirty
or sticky though)

None of the vacuum hoses to the air filter, the thermovalve , the carb or the EGR
valve seemed cracked or leaky.

After all this the car still behaves the same. In fact it also seems sluggish in response to an accelerator deperession, which is not what I would have expected after the compoinents I changed as part of the tune-up.

Any ideas???

unhappy_idle

Ok will check this out. How does this valve affect operation?

I also notice that the card does not have a FITV valve, but has something like
two throttle controlllers whose spindles ( plungers) reset against a screw assembly that I take it adjusts the amount the plunger is in or out.

I did not mess with these screws yet nor the throttle controllers, as I did not fiddle with them when to cause the symptom, so I assume the fast idle is because of something else that has gone awry that needs to be fixed.

I am unsure whether an 1988 carb accord has an IACV valve.
From the general look of things under the hood, there does not seem to be a whole lot of gunk around any of the valves, EGR, thermo-valve, throttle controllers, throttle cable etc so I am lost as to what the cause of the problem may be.,

In the course of my investigation, I did find a drip-drip coolant leak over by the thermostat housing that I will fix the coming week-end; that explains why I need to keep replacing the coolant every 3-4 months.

Please add any other suggestions, you guys have much more experience than I