stivic

What are some of the good and if there are any bad benefits from port and polishing a head.

EnzoSpeed

Good: increased engine efficiency.

Bad: nothing.

hapexamendios 2.0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good: increased engine efficiency.

Bad: bad port job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

stivic

I know it increases that but I've also heard from somebody that it can decrease your engines life is that true?

shorto85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know it increases that but I've also heard from somebody that it can decrease your engines life is that true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it wouldn't decrease your engines life unless it wasn't cleaned good afterwards. But then again who does a P&P job on a head and then doesn't race it...

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are some of the good and if there are any bad benefits from port and polishing a head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can lose some bottom end torque due to reduced port turbulence, which mixes the fuel and air.

stivic

I think since I'm going to P&P the head I might as well change to some racing valves, springs, and retainers. I don't wish to add alot of compression however, I have a tendency to hang in the high rpms alot so I think upgraded valve sets would be a good investment for my motor. Does anyone have some advice as to which type of valves or valve spring/retainer set works well with stock cams Ive heard beefier cams will bring out more power from racing valves but I am keeping the stock cams for now until I turbo the motor and install a turbo cam. So guess I'm not to expect much of a gain from racing valves and springs/retainers I just want the durability when I'm in higher RPMs. Any suggestions as to which valvetrain setup to run would be helpful. I am thinking of the skunk2 spring/retainers but the only racing valves they make are high compression is that my only route or are there stock or possibly lower compression racing valves out there?

Dogginator

What engine? Check out my signature if it is a B-series VTEC. The ITR valve train can handle 9000 RPM with reasonable cams.

stivic

94 JDM B18C GSR do you know how much of a comp ratio that will increase on my engine though?

Dogginator

It will actually drop the compression ratio on that engine from 10.60:1 to 10.38:1. The P72 GSR head has one of the smallest combustion chambers. However, the ITR head flows better.

You can check it here:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php

stivic

Yeah your right, it will actually decrease Compresson, however 950 is a bit more than I intended on spending for the a valve change Ill have to give it some thought. On the other hand if I were to just change out my GSR valves and springs with Type R would combustion stay the same and compression actually increase that way?

Dogginator

The compression ratio should be the same. You will need the ITR intake valves, the intake valve springs (your current intake valve springs get moved to the exhaust side), and the ITR lost motion assemblies (optional). Expect to pay $250 + installation for the valves and springs. The lost motion assemblies add another $270.

The head that I have for sale is factory ported and polished from hand selected castings. It already includes the upgraded valve train. That is the reason for the price.

Check the parts link:
http://www.acuraparts247.com/p...ch=no

stivic

I dont understand lost motion assemblies? call me dumb but what are they and why are they optional your saying if I were to just get Type R Intake valves my stock valves would go to the exhaust side.... but would that alone be durable enough for alot of high rpms

Dogginator

The lost motion assemblies are the return springs for the center rocker arm during non-VTEC operation. Without this, the center rocker arm would just flop around. During VTEC operation, the lost motion assemblies still act as helper springs for the coupled rocker assembly, which assists with high RPM operation. The ITR lost motion assemblies are better than the GSR lost motion assemblies. Since they are expensive, most people just use the original GSR lost motion assemblies. The GSR head in my car has the full ITR valve train, including the lost motion assemblies.

HEAD

It would be cheaper for you to go with a 6000 series Ferrea valve then purchasing Type R valves from the dealer..

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does anyone have some advice as to which type of valves or valve spring/retainer set works well with stock cams .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any type of Honda or aftermarket valvetrain will work with stock cams.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive heard beefier cams will bring out more power from racing valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aftermarket valves don't make more power than stock valves.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So guess I'm not to expect much of a gain from racing valves and springs/retainers</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll actually lose some power (insignificant) due to the tighter springs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Any suggestions as to which valvetrain setup to run would be helpful. I am thinking of the skunk2 spring/retainers</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I use. Many people gripe about Skunk2. Mainly because they are a bunch of H-T bandwagon loving douchebags.

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I use. Many people gripe about Skunk2. Mainly because they are a bunch of H-T bandwagon loving douchebags.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the Skunk2 Ti retainers too. I just inspect them for wear when I do a valve adjustment. I think the weight saving was 3g per retainer.

stivic

Damn I was checking prices for a P&P today and this is what a local shop told me... It is $950 for standard portwork. This includes a valve
job, clean and glass beading the head, resurface, port and
polish.

Now same price for your JDM ITR head that you said is already factory P&P correct? it comes with the type r assemblies so I just need to wait for my check if its still for sale on friday Ill buy that off you.

HEAD

The Type R head is only ported in the bowl area...the whole head is not done. That's where you see a performance and price difference.

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn I was checking prices for a P&P today and this is what a local shop told me... It is $950 for standard portwork. </TD></TR></TABLE>


You should have spit in his face and walked away laughing. Local shops crack me up with their pricing. Seriously, who do they think they are.

I'd send it to Portflow.

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn I was checking prices for a P&P today and this is what a local shop told me... It is $950 for standard portwork. This includes a valve
job, clean and glass beading the head, resurface, port and
polish.

Now same price for your JDM ITR head that you said is already factory P&P correct? it comes with the type r assemblies so I just need to wait for my check if its still for sale on friday Ill buy that off you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That price is high for a local P&P. What valve train did they intend to provide?

stivic

Not sure about the valvetrain they intendin on providing but yeah it does seem a little high

HEAD

That price is what you pay for a good head porter to do your work...I actually charge a little more then that but I also install bronze guides...and that's without valvetrain.

A good head with valvetrain should set you back at least $1600

EnzoSpeed

^^How much would you charge to replicate the portwork you did on the PINKS car?

And by the way, what's the deal with your avatar? I see that pic everywhere but I don't get what's going on. Looks like a cat with a melon-rind helmet.