nardeezy

I have a 97 Integra LS (128,000 miles). When I start the engine (cold) there is a rattling sound that comes from the distributor cap area. After the car has been running for 5-10 minutes the noise typically goes away. I have been told that it is probably a bad bearing on my distributor. I have replaced my water pump and timing belt at 90,000. Valves are adjusted every 30,000 and I don't think it is my alternator or heat shields rattling. Has anybody ever had this situation with their Honda/Acura?

1bad-eg

Well, check the t-belt and make sure it's tight, cause if the belt's loose, the dist. will rattle. If the belt's tight then you're gonna need to replace the distributor base. I believe they're about 110-130 bucks.


[Modified by 1bad-eg, 4:35 PM 1/28/2003]

nardeezy

If the timing belt were loose wouldn't the distributor rattle all the time? Because, it only rattles when the engine is cold. What do you mean by replacing the distributor base if the timing belt is too tight?

nardeezy

If the timing belt were loose wouldn't the distributor rattle all the time? Because, it only rattles when the engine is cold. What do you mean by replacing the distributor base if the timing belt is too tight?

slvrcivic97

I've had this problem forever. It is mainly only a problem in the winter though. Anyways, when the car sits for a period of time, the oil drains inside the car. This is what causes the clicking sound when you start your engine up cold. It is perfectly normal as in some cars do it, and some cars don't. Typically, the clicking noise should go away within 30 seconds if it's warm outside and when it's cold it usually takes about 2 minutes. Again this is perfectly normal and is just the oil sitting or draining. I had this question for a long time and first I thought it was the distributer, or something loose, but I finally aksed about it at Honda and they told me exactly what I just said. Hope this helps.

nardeezy

You're response helps a lot. However, the noise takes longer than 2 minutes to go away, approx. 5-10 minutes until it's gone. But you're right it depends on the outside temperature. For example in the morning it produces the noise longer, but when I was going to lunch it did not last that long. I hope we have the same issue. I can replace the part, but it's expensive, $354.30 plus tax is the lowest I have found (Oakland Acura/Acura of Pleasanton)! How long have you had this issue (mileage)? I'm concerned about getting stuck anywhere. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Hit me up!

nardeezy

I analyzed the noise with a screw driver and I found out the noise comes directly from the distributor cap area. Does your noise come from the valve cover area or more toward your distributor cap? The first time I heard it I replaced the distributor cap and rotor but with Honda parts and the noise still exists.

slvrcivic97

Honestly, after I asked the Honda techinician what it was, I just accepted his answer and have just dealt with it every day. It does get very annoying though. But then again, you have a different engine than me and that may cause the clicking noise to last longer than mine.

1bad-eg

It's the distributor base. What I mean is that the bearing in the distributor is going bad, causing the rattle noise. If it keeps going on the worst that can happen is your distributor could seize and cause some serious damage.

nardeezy

When you say the worst that can happen is have my distributor seize, does that mean more than just my distributor can be damaged? Like the cams too? The reason why I'm asking is because I ordered a distributor but it won't receive it until next week.

1bad-eg

Possibly, but what I meant was your tbelt could snap and possibly bend valves. I'm not trying to make you nervous, I just want to let you know on what could happen that's all. You should be alright till your part comes in.

nardeezy

Thanks, I appreciate your help!

1bad-eg

No problem.

nardeezy

When my engine is cold I hear a rattling sound in my distributor housing region. I bought a 99 LS distributor from eBay and installed it and I still hear the noise. Typically, when the engine is fully warm the rattle goes away. My idle and performance is not effected.

Now that I have my original distributor out of my car, how can I bench test or analyze it for problems? Help