Timmyflys

i bought a 95 gsr kind of a project and it had some new brake lines installed. and a new master cylinder and brake resivor. i have tried to bleed the front brakes repetively and i can't get any fluid to come out of the front nipples. the rears are already bleed and fluids squirts out fine. some of the lines were a little loose and leaked just a little bit. i tighted all of them and no leaks. but still i can't get any fluid to come out of the front brakes!!!!!
i must have bleed each brake in the front 20 to 35 times. and no leaks that i can find at all.
when i press on the brakes when its started the idle will go up really high like 2 to 2 and half
what is my problem??
is something wrong with the booster? the engine bay has freash paint and the booster was painted could of it got messed up if paint got inside of it? all i have left is too figure out the brakes and i have put in like 30 hrs in 5 days into this car already im dying to get it done. please any help is appreciated!
is brake booser bad?

Timmyflys

30 views and no one has nothing to say?
come onnnnn

Scott_Tucker

Did you bench bleed your master cylinder?

Drive 4 fun

Not sure that I understand the problem yet. You bought it with the install, or did it? It sounds like it came that way, so, what was wrong before the bleed? Do the brakes work? How are you bleeding, suction/vacuum, pedal pump?

z3pp3h

I'm dealing with a similar issue with my 1994 Del Sol Si (d16z6). Would open a new thread/topic, but this account is new...

I purchased a PBR brake master cylinder and a Motive products pressure bleeder with universal adapter. The pressure bleeder was selected to avoid bench-bleeding the master cylinder. I also read that pressure bleeding was preferred among pro shops for master cylinder replacement and routine bleeding.

The old master cylinder came off without any issues. After installing the new cylinder, the bleeder was attached and pressurized to ensure that a good seal was achieved. It held @ 12 psi for 60+ seconds. De-pressurized the unit, filled it with brake fluid, and pressurized the unit to 12 psi. Pressure held fine.

The rear passenger caliper was bled first. Lots of air bubbles and dirty fluid came out at first, but after about 15 seconds the flow was clear. The rear driver side caliper behaved similarly, but I noticed less air bubbles.

I then attempted to bleed the front passenger caliper... no flow at all. Same happened with the front driver side.

I de-pressurized the bleeder, sucked out some excess brake fluid from the reservoir, and tried pumping the brakes to see if the calipers were moving at all (car was OFF at this time, if that helps). None of the calipers were moving at all. With the car on, I noticed that the brake lights actuate normally.

Any replies are appreciated, and I can provide more information if needed.

Scott_Tucker

You need to bench bleed your master, the pressure bleeder will not do it.

z3pp3h

Thanks for your input! I'll take that into consideration when I pull everything apart and start over.

Drive 4 fun

I used a homemade pressure system similar to the Motive system. I thought that if you let air in above, or did not bleed a new MC, then you have to push it through, downhill, and this will take a long time and lot of fluid. You will have small bubbles trapped. How about gravity or drip bleed. See the current thread on Looooong brake pedal:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/looooong-brake-pedal-2828912/

z3pp3h

I bench bled the MC for about an hour, re-installed the MC, manually bled the system thoroughly... Now my brakes work beautifully!

This has been the first serious repair job I've done on the car by myself. Thanks Scott_Tucker and Drive 4 fun.