i just did a bench test on the main relay assembly and it passed all the test but when i plug it back into the car it still doesn't start because pin 7(fuel pump) dry contacts don't engage
so i figured ill help it out and jump the fuel pump still no start then i read that u can theoretically jump pins 1,3,7 (power,ecu injectors,fuel pump) but still no go even thou pin 3 was energized im just not getting that second click that primes the fuel pump
so what i am asking is does the ecu play a critical role in the whole process because i figured it was just the grounded end and only reads what is going on but doesn't actually control the main relay from operating correctly
mods if this isn't the best forum to put this can you move it plz
well i just bought a new main assy relay and still no second click im thinking its the computer
does anybody here have experience with this situation
i have a spare ecu but its for my ls integra so what i wanna know is it possible that the ecu is whats causing the problem and if it is can i use my p75 ecu to verify this (not to actual run the car but see the fuel pump prime)
my check engine light stayed on until the fuel pump primed (waiting for 1 min to 30 min)
I am actually trying to see if I can fix the ecu myself looking for some dry solder joints or burnt circuits, don't really know where to start. i wonder if anyone on H-T has experience in this sort of matter
This also just happened to my 93 del sol si automatic. The fuel pump wouldn't prime . It turned out to be the ecu. The casing was wet and I guess corrosion got inside. I used a P28 from a manual car and the pump primed and the car started. I'm waiting for a P28-A51 ecu to come in. I tried a P28-A02 from a 92 civic auto and it didn't work for some reason.
i just got another ecu (good) but the bad it seems that it was chipped but the funny part is that it was running a car so unless the chip was magically removed i want to know if it can indeed run like stock if its been chipped but doesn't actually have the chip in it
well the problem still persist to cause me problem the replacement ecu is burnt in the same place i repaired them both but now i noticed that when it wasn't working that i can shift the car into reverse or drive without depressing the brakes and i had a blown fuse dont remember which one. so does anyone know if there is a component between the brake swicth and ign/ecu that could go bad and burn my ecu
ok i still having the same issue i can't believe no one here has ever had this problem let me explain
when i put the key in the ignition check engine will stay on and no fuel pump prime ( i have a new main relay ) so then i noticed that while it is having this problem the shifter is in a free shifting condition where i dont have to depress the brakes to move it but after a min or 10min ussually the car will prime check engine goes away and everything is back to normal
If you can find the wiring diagrams for your car and post em I can help you trouble shoot this. Your ecu receives inputs and sends outputs. Something is sending you a high voltage on the wrong place or shorting to your frame somewhere sending a lot of current threw the wrong circuit.
Originally Posted by ZylexSNL
CAP Brody... In case you haven't noticed, TurboSnatchyPatch is out of control.. I just want it to STOP. Do you think you can do him a favor and give him a 2-3 day 'vacation'? Please?
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