anthonyfa18

thank you for the quick reply, but i just came across something would it be possable to use this with 2 piston legend calipers with t23 itr calliper bracket ???

2007- Mini Cooper john cooper works 294mm x 22mm



insted of

2007-Mini Cooper base 280mm x 22

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Doubt it. I have not personally measured the clearance but the minimal added contact area, 2mm at most with type r pad, is not woth the extra lbs at each side.

Honda Type R

The 294mm rotors work well with RSX Type S calipers and caliper brackets. The pads hang over the rotor a bit more than the ITR pads hang off of the Mini rotors. The caliper brackets also need to be ground down about 1.5mm to achieve perfect alignment with the rotors. I ran that setup for a while without the brackets modified and saw no problems

Edit: I might be wrong on that 1.5mm measurement. It's been about 2 years since I measured that.

Honda Type R

Another thing to keep in mind is the 23T and 25T brackets will only fit over an 11" rotor. The 11.6" rotor will be too tall and it'll hit the caliper. A 28T RL/TL/TSX caliper bracket will fit over the 11.6" rotor but the rotor might be too narrow. 28mm bracket vs 22mm rotor. The RSX Type S and S2000 brackets are meant for a 25mm rotor so the 22mm rotor works well. If you didn't know, the S2000 and the RSX Type S use the same calipers and brackets but different rotors. RSX Type S rotors can be drilled to 4x100 and are a direct bolt on to Integra/Civic EX/Si knuckles with RSX Type S calipers/brackets.

anthonyfa18

ok cool it good to know that it works with RSX Type S calipers, but dose it work with 2 piston legend calipers ??? will a RSX Type S calipers and 294mmx22mm rotor fit in a 15'' mag???

Honda Type R

The 2 piston calipers will only fit with the 28T RL bracket and I'd be concerned about the difference in width between the bracket and the rotor

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

Tail of the dragon was good with the brake setup without the springs ? , no uneven pad wear. Im about to upgrade my brakes, and still deciding what route to go.

Honda Type R

Everything was great! No problems at all!

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

do you guys order the metallic or ceramic pads? with shims or no shims?

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

It is all preference. I personally used hawk hps for the street, no problems.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

sounds good thanks!

Will these work with ABS? I already placed my order from rockauto but forgot to check if it matters if i have ABS.

Pullig

Im interested in doing this on my 00 civic ex. but worried about fitting 13inch drag wheels.. The car is a weekend street/drag car. Just need more stopping power stock calipers and brembo rotors/ Hawk HPS just doesn't seem to be enough.

Will they fit the drag wheels? lenso or tracklite type wheels

Honda Type R

It doesn't matter. My car has ABS & I have no problems.

These will most likely not work with 13's. I can't say certain but they won't fit under 14" OE Honda wheels

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

I just did this install with all the parts ordered from RockAuto. I noticed my brake pedal feels very spongy and soft. i bled the brakes twice. Anybody change their master cylinder for this upgrade? Also theres a constant grinding noise. I thought it was the pads dragging, but the sound is very constant regardless if im on the brakes or not. Maybe the dust shield? Did anybody have to do any grinding/shaving of the calipers or brackets itself?


EDIT: just reread the first post. i will try to remove the pad springs from the calipers because i am using the TSX pads.

king06

iTrader: (1)

I changed my master to a 91ex 15/16, stainless lines in front itr caliper and oem ITR pads. Bled the brakes lr,fr,rr,lf. My pedal feel is way better than before, super solid. So make sure you bleed them correctly. I used to bleed them wrong and it was always spongy no matter how many times I bled them.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. this was the pattern i did - RR, LF, LR, RF. after doing some research, would my pattern be different because i have ABS? i read something about ABS that the bleed pattern is different vs non ABS. im trying to look up the manual for 93 integra with ABS.

king06

iTrader: (1)

Something is definitely going be different because of the abs. Maybe the abs unit needs to be bled.

pjd

i have rotors and caliper for sale i have no use sold my car this is what i paid for i will sell it for 120.00

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
CENTRIC 14140049 (141.40049) Caliper $ 31.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 31.79
CENTRIC 14140050 (141.40050) Caliper $ 31.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 31.79
CENTRIC 12034100 (120.34100) Rotor $ 40.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 81.58
Shipping Ground $ 37.16
Order Total $ 182.32

SCoupe 5sp

RACE USE: Report.....

I have recently converted from ITR pads to the no overhang TSX pad (profile 787). The entire system is better as a result. The "over bite" problem, as I call it, it gone.

My car is essentially a fully gutted H1-H2 race car. I drive the $hit out of this thing. Group C Race with NASA and some other clubs. Sonoma Raceway, Laguna Seca and (imho) the big destroyer of brakes, Thunderhill Raceway. Changing to the TSX pads made a significant improvement. I have the 7/8 master and I run a brake bias valve set for full rear. The brake peddle modulation is better with TSX pads, the rotors run cooler, there is more braking force. In essence, everything I can think of got better by simply switching pads.

The ITR overbite, imho, created a hotter rotor. The pad was making contact completely out to the edge and actually, in an odd way, wrapping around the outside edge. imho, that aspect of it may contribute to a hotter rotor the accompanying system stress side effects. The Raybestos ST43 pads actually never really fade, they just heat and beat the **** out of everything near them and put the stress on them.

Enter the TSX pads. No "over-bite". Perfectly matched contact to the MiniCooper rotor. The outside edge of the rotor is now able to offload heat better. The inside edge where the new contact is being made seems better able to handle things.

What all this means to me during my practice/qualifying/race sessions is an improved ability to predictably, consistently, bring the car to threshold braking, when needed/necessary, time after time, deep and with less heat in the system. I like all of that.

I also want to mention there there were absolutely no side effects, such as scraping, squealing or anything else. I am using all the springs and clips that I have always used. I have no friggin idea what some of you experienced, thankfully I have no issues what so ever.

To do this change over of pads, I just swapped pads and went with new rotors. I attempted to run the old rotors, but the wear pattern was too different to what the new pads wanted. So I returned the rotors and got free replacements. I run Autozone $35 blanks with their no questions asked two year return policy that I use a couple of times a year. Sometimes I spray them with a high temp paint to protect from rust. I have used these in race applications over the past ~four years. imho, these are just fine for everyday use as they are just fine for race. I found they last nearly as long a cyro treated expensive *** rotors I tried one time. Which cracked all the way through on the outside edge. So f $119 rotors.

I can only heap praise on Honda TypeR, the OP, for bringing this info to the community. Thank you! .

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

what part number for the pads are you using ?

thanks.

SCoupe 5sp

Raybestos RC787, ST43 compound, for a 2004 TSX

Prior to this, the RC503 profile, ST43 compound, for the Type R

cheapskate

How quickly were you going through rotors?

I am warping and cracking rotors in as little as three 20 minute sessions with Hawk DTC-70's. Its getting old.

Are you experiencing longer rotor life with the tsx pads?

SCoupe 5sp

Wow! That sucks and is freaking awful. I have not had the new pad profile on long enough to say anything about longer rotor life. I do not have rotor issues like you describe using ST43's. But dk if our situations are similar or not. My application is on a '99 Civic Si at 2,325lbs race weight, me in it.. The car lives only on the track and is unreg'ed and trailered. I run NT01 and Hankook c51 tires. I have had disastrous results with a set of Hawk pads that were spares (pulled and boxed) that came with my race car. They were destructive on the rotors and the transfer layer seemed to wear off in certain parts of the rotor. I don't know one person at Northern California NASA Group C race that uses Hawk pads. I am sure they're out there, I just don't know who it is. May I suggest you consider Raybestos ST43's?

Here's what goes on with me, sorry to ramble.

The Autozone Duralast rotors hold up for about ~2/3rd's of the wear of a set of ST43's. There is a point where I see micro cracks appearing uniformly throughout the rotor. I normally return those rotors after that weekend and bed a new set of virgin rotors with the fully bedded ST43's. I cycle new rotors on seasoned pads, new pads on seasoned rotors. Re-read that last sentence, it is key. I do whatever I can to never attempt to bed both at the same time. Too easy for me to screw up the bedding process when all is new, something goes FUBAR during the heat cycle or the transfer is wrong between them. Whatever, it shouldn't be this picky, but I accept what works and leave it at that. Always bed new to old.

When I see the micro cracks, I know its borrowed time. I won't run a race on them, but might do practice and qual. Or maybe a fun day, lapping in non-competition or something. I might also bed new pads on micro cracked rotors. But those rotors get returned for new ones shortly. Always attempting to go new and old, making the virgin rotors get hit by seasoned, cycled, ST43's. Pull the rotors as soon as I know they're good and I feel the bedding is in. Those get pulled and are the new back ups. Do the same with pads. Always have bedded set waiting. I could not run just one pair of pads and rotors. I have a full back up set of pads/rotors.

LightningTeg

I ran DTC-60s at an HPDE and never had issues with rotors cracking or overheating. Then again, I was running them in a 120whp stock LS swapped EJ8, on RE-11's

cheapskate

Do you have any form of brake cooling installed?

I'm driving an integra, similar specs to yours but I'm using Dunlop ZII's and no brake cooling. I am also using rotors from autozone, last track day I went through 2 sets. I am going to install cooling ducts and see if it helps to increase the rotor life.