Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
#1
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Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Como estas, chiquitas.
I was looking into getting camber adjustment for a 99 Civic, and I've already decided the rears, but on the front I was trying to decide between the Skunk2 Classics ($189.99), Pro-Series ($209.99), and Pro-Series Plus ($229.99). I'm trying to see if the extra $20 or $40 is actually worth stepping up for.
If anyone has experience with one, or even better, all three, that could give me some advice on these, it would be very appreciated. Thank you, and you are hellarad.
Inb4 someone says stock setup is best, I've read the sticky already, but I want camber adjustment for the look I want.
I'm off to the car meet woopwoop~
I was looking into getting camber adjustment for a 99 Civic, and I've already decided the rears, but on the front I was trying to decide between the Skunk2 Classics ($189.99), Pro-Series ($209.99), and Pro-Series Plus ($229.99). I'm trying to see if the extra $20 or $40 is actually worth stepping up for.
If anyone has experience with one, or even better, all three, that could give me some advice on these, it would be very appreciated. Thank you, and you are hellarad.
Inb4 someone says stock setup is best, I've read the sticky already, but I want camber adjustment for the look I want.
I'm off to the car meet woopwoop~
#2
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Better choices out there. SPC or even Hardrace.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hardrace-Front-Camber-Kit-96-00-Civic-EX-DX-CX-Si-/371188463577?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item566c8e77d9&vxp=mtrI have the AMRs that were based off of the Hardrace design. Superior product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hardrace-Front-Camber-Kit-96-00-Civic-EX-DX-CX-Si-/371188463577?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item566c8e77d9&vxp=mtrI have the AMRs that were based off of the Hardrace design. Superior product.
#4
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I looked up ebay pricing for the SPCs, $266 and some change. The Hardrace was $165 plus 16 shipped. Do you think its worth spending the extra ~100?
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Not really. But I've seen SPC cheaper.
And can anyone tell me if these are real SPC?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Specialty-Products-SPC-62030BL-Blue-Front-Control-Arm-1996-2000-Civic-/151376015332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item233eb6afe4&vxp=mtr
And can anyone tell me if these are real SPC?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Specialty-Products-SPC-62030BL-Blue-Front-Control-Arm-1996-2000-Civic-/151376015332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item233eb6afe4&vxp=mtr
Last edited by grumblemarc; 12-28-2014 at 03:17 AM.
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Skunk2 pro plus camber kits are actually pretty nice. I had the pro series on my ITR that I used in order to get -3.5° of camber for track use.
#11
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
I thought AMR was a crook. Can anyone shed some light on that for me please?
OP, get the J's racing camber kit like I'm going to, it's hella JDM
OP, get the J's racing camber kit like I'm going to, it's hella JDM
#12
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Ohh, gotcha. Are they more of an engine component company? Seen a lot of that stuff around.
Already ordered Hardrace doe.
Any experience with HR?
It's hella-hella. Too late haha
Any experience with HR?
It's hella-hella. Too late haha
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
skunk2 are fine. I have had 3 sets since 2002. You guys are idots if you say they are junk. You need to remove the ball joint. Etch the paint and the metal on the ball joint to insure no slippage. Use blue Loctite and go on your way. AMR are scammers last I checked.
Hardrace are nice but have hug issues with bump travel. I made a thread years ago. My car went from shitty to great again and no I use just shitty Blox UCA with a new skunk2 ball joints.
I drive my car on the street and jump curbs and the track.
Read this to figure out my issues
https://honda-tech.com/road-racing-a...ravel-2945465/
Hardrace are nice but have hug issues with bump travel. I made a thread years ago. My car went from shitty to great again and no I use just shitty Blox UCA with a new skunk2 ball joints.
I drive my car on the street and jump curbs and the track.
Read this to figure out my issues
https://honda-tech.com/road-racing-a...ravel-2945465/
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
The issue you had with them in that post was a situation that you yourself caused.
BTW, walking into a thread and slinging insults because you're attached to a particular product, unable to divest yourself of the emotions you developed for an inanimate object, because you feel personally obligated to defend a purchase you've made smacks of immaturity.
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Suspension travel would be a concern of mine if I were buying camber arms. OP seems like he probably wants to lower the car quite a bit. That's one of the reasons I chose Skunk2 pro and pro+. Skunk2 pro series ball joints are low profile. The bolts also fasten from the bottom. So if they do hit your shock tower, the load is spread out and you don't get the imprint of bolt heads in the metal. Plus...adjustments are easier with the bolts on the bottom.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
I'm curious as to what makes people say that they're junk without any explanation.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
I'm curious as to what makes people say that they're junk without any explanation.
#18
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skunk2 are fine. I have had 3 sets since 2002. You guys are idots if you say they are junk. You need to remove the ball joint. Etch the paint and the metal on the ball joint to insure no slippage. Use blue Loctite and go on your way. AMR are scammers last I checked.
Hardrace are nice but have hug issues with bump travel.
Hardrace are nice but have hug issues with bump travel.
Care to explain that bump travel thing though? I hadn't considered that.
I've heard more bad things about Blox than good. Especially from reputable people here on HT.
Suspension travel would be a concern of mine if I were buying camber arms. OP seems like he probably wants to lower the car quite a bit. That's one of the reasons I chose Skunk2 pro and pro+. Skunk2 pro series ball joints are low profile. The bolts also fasten from the bottom. So if they do hit your shock tower, the load is spread out and you don't get the imprint of bolt heads in the metal. Plus...adjustments are easier with the bolts on the bottom.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
I'm curious as to what makes people say that they're junk without any explanation.
#19
Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Suspension travel would be a concern of mine if I were buying camber arms. OP seems like he probably wants to lower the car quite a bit. That's one of the reasons I chose Skunk2 pro and pro+. Skunk2 pro series ball joints are low profile. The bolts also fasten from the bottom. So if they do hit your shock tower, the load is spread out and you don't get the imprint of bolt heads in the metal. Plus...adjustments are easier with the bolts on the bottom.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
I'm curious as to what makes people say that they're junk without any explanation.
For street use, they'll never slip. Mine didn't slip at the track. I wouldn't scrape paint off unless the car was never going to see anything but dry weather.
I'm curious as to what makes people say that they're junk without any explanation.
What about the buddy club UCAs?
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
Buddy club UCA's seem ok. The design of the skunk2 pro is still better. I'm a little sour on buddy club because their seat rails are so bad.
#21
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Hadnt even considered Buddy Club anything, I dont really hear much of anything of them, good or bad.
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Re: Comparing Skunk2 UCAs
And that is acceptable to you? Blox is bullshit too.
The issue you had with them in that post was a situation that you yourself caused.
BTW, walking into a thread and slinging insults because you're attached to a particular product, unable to divest yourself of the emotions you developed for an inanimate object, because you feel personally obligated to defend a purchase you've made smacks of immaturity.
The issue you had with them in that post was a situation that you yourself caused.
BTW, walking into a thread and slinging insults because you're attached to a particular product, unable to divest yourself of the emotions you developed for an inanimate object, because you feel personally obligated to defend a purchase you've made smacks of immaturity.
Blox, Junkpoo Funnyclub all come out of the same factory. My Hardrace UCA after countless work and banging chassis still did not net the 2 inchs of wheel travel I have right now. That's a huge improvement when your looking to not smash bump stops and hit the UCA into the chassis and start understeering at great speeds. I still have my Bronze bushings from my Kiwi HR UCA installed in my (Blox. skunk,buddy club) arms. I got them for free and made them work for my car.
I will also say my Ground Control Advance design shocks at that posting of thread have since been removed and the extended lower ball joint. IM currently running shortened and revalved Bilsteins with 800 pound springs up front and its much better. I just graze the chassis now under really High speed hits.
Did I cause the situation? well no even with a lot of caster pulled out of the bushings I was still left with very little travel. I was 5.5 inchs from jacking point to ground on my car. If the OP wanted to go lower he would have maybe .5 or less wheel travel and with a 450 spring rate he would be smashing the crap out of his car. The problem is how big the area that housings the ball joint is. The AMR solved that issues but last I checked he skipped town and owes people money. Those UCA he sells look to solve the issues of the HardRace units
All im saying is everyone says a certain brand is junk... well it might be but it takes a little work to make it better that's all. The most clearance you will get is out of a OEM UCA. Just bend the knuckle like they do in Japan to get the desired camber LOL.
#24
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SOrry to offend you... Seem upset.
I will also say my Ground Control Advance design shocks at that posting of thread have since been removed and the extended lower ball joint. I'm currently running shortened and revalved Bilsteins with 800 pound springs up front and its much better. I just graze the chassis now under really High speed hits.
I was 5.5 inchs from jacking point to ground on my car. If the OP wanted to go lower he would have maybe .5 or less wheel travel and with a 450 spring rate he would be smashing the crap out of his car.
Just bend the knuckle like they do in Japan to get the desired camber LOL.