ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed?
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ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed?
I've read a lot about this subject and I just can not come to a conclustion. Some say use it and its a must and some say its just for show. What should I do? I have a 95gsr and plan to upgrade my 14mm rear sway to a jdm 23mm or usdm 22mm (i'll just get which ever is cheaper because i dont think 1mm really make a difference). A friend of mine has a 22mm and does not have a subframe brace and says that the brace is not necessary. What do you think? Also I was told that it is the endlinks that determine the rear sway. True?
My other optiion is the 22mm rear sway kit by beaks. Here is the link.
http://www.beaksproducts.com/DC_Quick_Swap.htm
Finally, should i
a. beaks kit
b. 22mm or 23mm rear sway with ASR subframe
My other optiion is the 22mm rear sway kit by beaks. Here is the link.
http://www.beaksproducts.com/DC_Quick_Swap.htm
Finally, should i
a. beaks kit
b. 22mm or 23mm rear sway with ASR subframe
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
i like my 22mm bar, and asr subframe combined with my omni lca's. not only does it work well...it looks nice
the subframe brace also acts as a lower tie bar too.
the subframe brace also acts as a lower tie bar too.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
dc/eg chassis are generally fine with beaks up to about 22mm. while it is possible to run without reinforcement, i would advise against it. the itr frame came reinforced to handle the larger swaybar without tearing, regular integras did not.
asr does act as a very effective tie bar and looks really nice, but beaks is cheaper by a bunch and iwll probably be just as effective for your situation
asr does act as a very effective tie bar and looks really nice, but beaks is cheaper by a bunch and iwll probably be just as effective for your situation
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (slammed_93_hatch)
i don't think anyone can give you a definitive answer. it's really for your peace of mind
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">beaks kit blows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
see the only time iver ever heard negative opinions about beaks thus far has been in regard to ek applications, in which its not enough to provide safe use of larger bars
im very happy with my asr, but if i run anything larger than a paperclip swaybar im likely to tear. ek subframes are lame
see the only time iver ever heard negative opinions about beaks thus far has been in regard to ek applications, in which its not enough to provide safe use of larger bars
im very happy with my asr, but if i run anything larger than a paperclip swaybar im likely to tear. ek subframes are lame
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (JDM_Ej)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed an iTR 23mm rear bar with a beaks kit on my EJ... we'll see what happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why are you even risking it???
spend the 200 now, or have to spend hrmmmmm maybe close to 800 + to get your subframe re-welded, or a new one put in.
why are you even risking it???
spend the 200 now, or have to spend hrmmmmm maybe close to 800 + to get your subframe re-welded, or a new one put in.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
The GSR subframe is particularly vulnerable to tear-out because the ITR swaybar mounts will not sit flush against the subframe (ITR subframe is designed better). Under load this will allow the mounts to get some leverage and tear the subframe.
Reinforcement of this area is particularly necessary with stock or generally soft spring rates because the body of the car will roll more causing a larger difference between the outside and inside suspension, thus more stress on the swaybar and mounts.
For my money none beats the Comptech brace. Attention to detail (such as channels for the ABS lines) really impress me.
Reinforcement of this area is particularly necessary with stock or generally soft spring rates because the body of the car will roll more causing a larger difference between the outside and inside suspension, thus more stress on the swaybar and mounts.
For my money none beats the Comptech brace. Attention to detail (such as channels for the ABS lines) really impress me.
#10
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (RineRacing)
22mm Mugen rear bar with a Beaks kit on an EM1, been tracking and DD'ing it for years now, no problems.
#11
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (rmcdaniels)
You have a couple of options.
Progress 24mm adjustable swaybar with no extra subframe reinforcement.
All others + reinforcement.
Any 18mm+ swaybar w/out reinforcement and eventual subframe tearout.
1mm makes a world of difference. But so does the length of the bar. If the USDM 22mm is shorter, it may very well be stiffer than the JDM 23mm.
Endlinks don't effect bodyroll. Endlinks control the smoothness of the swaybar taking effect as you enter a corner. If they're adjustable, it's not the endlinks making the difference but the length of the bar.
Progress 24mm adjustable swaybar with no extra subframe reinforcement.
All others + reinforcement.
Any 18mm+ swaybar w/out reinforcement and eventual subframe tearout.
1mm makes a world of difference. But so does the length of the bar. If the USDM 22mm is shorter, it may very well be stiffer than the JDM 23mm.
Endlinks don't effect bodyroll. Endlinks control the smoothness of the swaybar taking effect as you enter a corner. If they're adjustable, it's not the endlinks making the difference but the length of the bar.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
thanks everyone.
Anyone hear running a 32mm hollow rear sway with the ASR subframe?
Anyone hear running a 32mm hollow rear sway with the ASR subframe?
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmdc2jdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone hear running a 32mm hollow rear sway with the ASR subframe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1617303
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1528909
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1617303
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1528909
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (Voyage34)
dont be a cheap ***, get it, trust me, it needs the support, people have ripped their subframe
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (SilverDc2-Ap1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2-Ap1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont be a cheap ***, get it, trust me, it needs the support, people have ripped their subframe</TD></TR></TABLE>
not being cheap man just wanted to find out if its really needed. I only buy good **** for my ride.
I just ordered the ASR brace and will probably buy the 23mm rear from a member here on HT. thanks everyone
not being cheap man just wanted to find out if its really needed. I only buy good **** for my ride.
I just ordered the ASR brace and will probably buy the 23mm rear from a member here on HT. thanks everyone
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
Just get it. Don't listen to your friend. He just doesn't want you to be cooler than him.
BSQ kit
Comptech
Now is that cool or what!
BSQ kit
Comptech
Now is that cool or what!
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (sirg-vtec)
Hahahahahaha, I run the 22 mm with NO problems whatsoever. I do race my car also, so what it basically comes down to in my opnion is your peace of mind, also that bling factor.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (super_mut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by super_mut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hahahahahaha, I run the 22 mm with NO problems whatsoever. I do race my car also, so what it basically comes down to in my opnion is your peace of mind, also that bling factor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol man i had to make sure. I wanted your rear sway but you said you already drilled into your subframe LOL. Any luck with selling your car?
lol man i had to make sure. I wanted your rear sway but you said you already drilled into your subframe LOL. Any luck with selling your car?
#19
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
its more then just show, its a pretty darn good item in general. honestly i am pleased with the item, which is why we set up as a distributor. Not as a shameless plug, but honestly, more and more customers have said good things bout the ASR kits then half of the other products we've sold. everyone just seems to really enjoy the look, feel and setup that it creates.. just some opinions.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (jdmdc2jdm)
well ive done my own test using multiple set ups and take my experience for what it is.
this is all on a 92 si hatch.
i have used oem shocks, with a 24mm itr front sway, with a 22mm rear sway and a bsq kit. every weekend for about a year i drove through sunset from beverly hills to the mountain in la cienaga, more than enough turns to get in 4th gear. and also daily on the streets to work etc. never a problem with tear out or any signs or problems.
another year using tein ss, with a 23mm itr rear sway and lowered 2" (1"gap) still no sign of tear out or problems.
in the middle of the same year i switched to tein flex, and went lowered to 3" (no gap) same roads and mountain, never a problem.
now i am on buddy clubs, 26mm mugen rear sway, and lowered 3" (no gap) the bsq was ditched do the 1" diameter of the mugen sway bar... i do not trust the subframe or myself. so i now use an asr brace.
all through the different setups i could take posted speed limit turns at just below double the speed limit witout any problems of tear out of anything coming loose.
the asr or comptech are great products and do their job. i would be safe using the bsq or the beaks with a 23mm and under sway bar with no fear of tear out. since i took the chance with my own car and did my own diy testing so with my car i would not hesitate to go back. but if you have an ek, i strongly suggest using a brace with any rear sway due to the ek subframe design flaw.
so if your not sure then get the brace, its just that simple.
this is all on a 92 si hatch.
i have used oem shocks, with a 24mm itr front sway, with a 22mm rear sway and a bsq kit. every weekend for about a year i drove through sunset from beverly hills to the mountain in la cienaga, more than enough turns to get in 4th gear. and also daily on the streets to work etc. never a problem with tear out or any signs or problems.
another year using tein ss, with a 23mm itr rear sway and lowered 2" (1"gap) still no sign of tear out or problems.
in the middle of the same year i switched to tein flex, and went lowered to 3" (no gap) same roads and mountain, never a problem.
now i am on buddy clubs, 26mm mugen rear sway, and lowered 3" (no gap) the bsq was ditched do the 1" diameter of the mugen sway bar... i do not trust the subframe or myself. so i now use an asr brace.
all through the different setups i could take posted speed limit turns at just below double the speed limit witout any problems of tear out of anything coming loose.
the asr or comptech are great products and do their job. i would be safe using the bsq or the beaks with a 23mm and under sway bar with no fear of tear out. since i took the chance with my own car and did my own diy testing so with my car i would not hesitate to go back. but if you have an ek, i strongly suggest using a brace with any rear sway due to the ek subframe design flaw.
so if your not sure then get the brace, its just that simple.
#22
Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why are you even risking it???
spend the 200 now, or have to spend hrmmmmm maybe close to 800 + to get your subframe re-welded, or a new one put in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
6 years and running with the 22mm ITR bar on my EJ1, with Beaks.
why are you even risking it???
spend the 200 now, or have to spend hrmmmmm maybe close to 800 + to get your subframe re-welded, or a new one put in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
6 years and running with the 22mm ITR bar on my EJ1, with Beaks.
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Re: ASR subframe. The truth, is it really needed? (mtny)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My EM1 is on H & R race springs, how bad would the ASR subframe scrape?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doubt it. It doesn't hang lower than your existing subframe, just goes on top of it as reinforcement.
Doubt it. It doesn't hang lower than your existing subframe, just goes on top of it as reinforcement.