Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
#1
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Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
Hello there
So I have been trying to figure out this Auto Door lock issue with my 1999 Honda CRV. I have tested the following parts on another CRV with working auto locks:
- Door lock switch (Door Handle)
- Control Unit (Inside door panel)
- Actuator (Purchased new one thinking this was the issue... nope)
- Interior Fuse
- Under Hood Fuse
After confirming my issue was not easy... I decided to start testing wires to see what had voltage on the working CRV. I was able to find out that there were 2/3 wires on the Control Unit that were not getting 12v. The reason I have come here is to get some opinions before I start crawling into the pedal assembly without knowing where to look.
The wires that did not have power were:
Pin #8 (White/Green)
Pin #13 (Blue/Red)
I corrected the numbers above to reflect 2nd post. Thanks tech8
Does anyone know where these two wires go to?
I would assume there is an issue with the harness between the door and body, but most wires are still functional in the door, even the speaker.
So I have been trying to figure out this Auto Door lock issue with my 1999 Honda CRV. I have tested the following parts on another CRV with working auto locks:
- Door lock switch (Door Handle)
- Control Unit (Inside door panel)
- Actuator (Purchased new one thinking this was the issue... nope)
- Interior Fuse
- Under Hood Fuse
After confirming my issue was not easy... I decided to start testing wires to see what had voltage on the working CRV. I was able to find out that there were 2/3 wires on the Control Unit that were not getting 12v. The reason I have come here is to get some opinions before I start crawling into the pedal assembly without knowing where to look.
The wires that did not have power were:
Pin #8 (White/Green)
Pin #13 (Blue/Red)
I corrected the numbers above to reflect 2nd post. Thanks tech8
Does anyone know where these two wires go to?
I would assume there is an issue with the harness between the door and body, but most wires are still functional in the door, even the speaker.
Last edited by EG MikE; 08-08-2014 at 05:18 AM.
#2
Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
The connector terminal numbering is from the wire side for the female connector side.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
#3
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
Wires breaking off at the door connector is actually EXTREMELY common unfortunately. So common a member on here decided to make a write-up about it. There is a much better one below though:
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=67605
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=67605
#4
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Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
The connector terminal numbering is from the wire side for the female connector side.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
#5
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Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
Wires breaking off at the door connector is actually EXTREMELY common unfortunately. So common a member on here decided to make a write-up about it. There is a much better one below though:
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=67605
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=67605
#6
Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
The connector terminal numbering is from the wire side for the female connector side.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
Cavity terminal no. 8 (Wht/Grn) should have power (hot) at all times from under-hood fuse no. 51 (20A).
Cavity terminal no. 13 (Blu/Red) is key switch input from the ignition key switch and should get ground source when key in ignition.
Your issue may be an open (break) in the wiring or at the 25P gray connector at the driver's door jamb. Check the wires and terminal connections there.
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#8
DixielandImports Please
Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
I have to look into this also Mike as only my Drivers door locks and unlocks with the drivers switch.
I just fixed a guys door jamb plug a few weeks ago on a 96-98 civic.
I just fixed a guys door jamb plug a few weeks ago on a 96-98 civic.
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Re: Auto Door Locks not working, two wires not getting power
I did this repair last winter except I took my door off to get to the plug. Do it the fender way. trust me that will be easier.
My symptoms were no locks, no keyless, no windows.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-cr-v-element-156/rewiring-crv-door-3184688/
For the rewiring use the glue filled butt connectors that you heat shrink or heat shrink and soldering is what I did. I don't like regular ole butt connectors in a exposed area like that moisture corrosion etc.
My symptoms were no locks, no keyless, no windows.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-cr-v-element-156/rewiring-crv-door-3184688/
For the rewiring use the glue filled butt connectors that you heat shrink or heat shrink and soldering is what I did. I don't like regular ole butt connectors in a exposed area like that moisture corrosion etc.
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