sgull

I need to make absolutely certain I've got my spark plug wires in the correct positions on the distributor cap on my '92 Accord. I've got the #1 wire into the connection on the cap marked "A", and then (going clockwise), the #3, then #4, then #2. I was careful to mark the wires and their respective positions on the cap before removing them, but it's possible I somehow got mixed up anyway. There's a discussion of the correct positions at this thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/firing-order-2284277/ where the initial post in the picture there shows what I am fairly certain is incorrect positioning. What I believe should be the correct positioning is described in the last post (#7) of the thread, which is how I have mine also.
I realize the thread is in regard to a '97 Accord and mine is a '92, but nonetheless I'm using it as an example here.
Any comment which can help me to verify whether I've indeed got my wires correctly positioned would be appreciated. Thanks

1990exr

That is the correct firing order. I think but not positive though that all honda 4cy engines are the 1-3-4-2 firing order not sure about the k series engines.

sgull

Correct firing order, as described in the last post in that thread, right?

leflore

Just checked my92 accord. 1,3,4,2. Is it miss firing,backfiring?

sgull

Yeah, I've got the order of 1,3,4,2 with 1 attached to tower marked "A" on distributor cap, and the remaining three of 3, 4, and 2 positioned in that sequence going clockwise on the remaining towers. I've got a crank but no start issue. I just checked for spark with a spark tester at each wire, and have spark to all four plugs. New plug wires, cap, and rotor. I cranks over strongly and will give one or maybe two good "chugs" like it's gonna catch and start, but then will not start, only cranks.

1990exr

This could be the main relay, they are under the dash on the right hand drivers side. I took mine out and heated every solder point on the board put it back and it it fired right up.

sgull

I just recentlly took my relay out and had a professional electronics guy I know do the same as what's described here http://www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-hon...main-relay.htm . He re-soldered all the points did a good job. It started right up fine after that too. So main relay is pretty much ruled out. Thanks though, still trying to troubleshoot.

PearlsOwner

Crank with no start but has spark. 90-93 Honda's are notorious for the "Main Relay" under the dash to go bad. it is normally a black box and has 7 prongs and a spot for an 8th that doesnt exist. Will be right around the left of the steering column. If you look at Advanced auto or auto-zone it is listed under the name "Main fuel pump relay" Can see just what you are looking for
Top row 8-6(space for clip) 2. Bottom 7-5-3-1. left to right just as I list the numbers, 3 prongs on top 4 on the bottom
Using jumper wires from a battery or jumper pack jump positive to #6 and ground the #8, check for continuity between #5 & #7. If nothing replace it. If there is keep going.
Connect voltage to #5 and ground #2 and check for continuity #1 & #3. If nothing replace it. If there is
Connect voltage to #3, ground #8 and check#5 & #7 for continuity, if nothing there replace it
If it is no good DO NOT go with the cheapest one you can find and look for one that has a lifetime warranty as they go bad a lot for whatever reason

sgull

PearlsOwner please see my post above yours (#7 this thread). I did have the main relay contact points re-soldered as shown in the link there, and just recently.

1990exr

Just realized my earlier post I said right had side, it's the left hand side on the drivers side under the dash. Just because you had the relay out and repaired, doesn't mean it's not the same problem again, Like he said notorious. If you are able to find another one I would try it and go from there just incase.

sgull

But I can hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when I turn the key to II (on). I can hear it hum when I listen carefully while the check engine light is on. I thought this is the indicator that the main relay is doing its job, working as it should.

JDM95Honda

well if you took the distributor out it is verry easy to put it in 180 degrees out and it will try to fire but wont start should check that too i my self have done that and it took me a couple hours to figure out helps if you have a timming light too

sgull

I didn't take the distributor out.

sgull

I'll change out the fuel filter tomorrow, see if that helps. Hasn't been changed in a long time. Maybe a fuel problem here.

holmesnmanny

Was your car running fine before you messed with the spark plug wires ? If not, let's focus on what was going on before you thought you messed up the wires.

leflore

Was the car running before you did the tune up? If so, would seem strange that you all of a sudden have a fuel issue, although changing the fuel filter is a good idea anyway. No CEL's?

leflore

Oops just saw holmesnmanny post

sgull

The car was running fine before, as well as after, I replaced the spark plug wires. Strangely, and likely just coincidentally, the current cranks-but-no-start issue occurred after I replaced the rotor which looked like this http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psc5f2a38e.jpg with a new rotor. I had some confusion in regard to whether I had the correct new rotor at first (re this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...4#post48470284 )
But anyway since replacing the rotor (along with a new cap) I've had this issue. I've checked and double-checked the spark plug connections making sure they're secure and in correct positions. And I've tested each wire for spark with a spark tester and get spark at all four wires. That's what's leading me now to consider fuel delivery issue, maybe just clogged filter...

sgull

Yes I agree this does seem strange, that all of a sudden I would get the fuel issue. It was starting and running okay until after I changed the rotor. After I changed the wires and cap it was fine though (didn't do all three at the same time, had an issue with the rotor which took me a few days to figure out)
Nope, no check engine lights were happening.
I checked for spark today with a spark tester. Getting spark from all four wires. So figure now I might consider maybe fuel filter could be plugged, and will change it to see what happens.

SlowDA9teg

Maybe your igntion control module?

sgull

Well I thought if you're getting spark (which I am) that pretty much rules out the ICM.

leflore

Just shooting in the dark here. Did you have to use force to get the the broke piece off the shaft from the old rotor? Could there be an issue with the distributor now? Anybody?

sgull

I did have to pull really hard to get that broke piece off the shaft. I pulled really hard with my fingers (not with any tool) and it came off. Then, when putting the new rotor onto the shaft, I noticed it was hard to push onto the shaft all the way. I was able to push it on about halfway but then it was so hard I didn't want to force it anymore, so I decided to pull it off so I could maybe sand off the kind of rusty looking metal of the shaft which seemed to be the reason it was so dang tight getting the new rotor on. Just trying to pull the new rotor off when it was only halfway or so on was even hard, I had to pull as hard as I could before it finally came off. So then I sanded the rust off the metal of the end of the shaft there a little with some fine sandpaper, then was able to slip the new rotor on quite a bit easier, although still tight. And I was careful to watch what I was doing, making sure the flat of the shaft fit with the flat of the rotor opening. Then, with the new rotor and cap installed I tried starting the car but just got the crank but no start thing happening. After double-checking spark plug wire connections were secure and positioned correctly, and with trying again to start but with only the crank but no start thing, my thought was somehow maybe I didn't get that rotor on correctly or something, so I pulled it off once again, checked it, all looked just fine, and then re-installed. But when I pulled it off this last time, it was still so tight it wouldn't come off without me having to lever my fingers behind the rotor and against that plastic box dust cover, which cracked and broke the dang cover (which is why I was asking about getting a replacement for that too now too).
So yes I did have to use force, as I've just described, to get that broken piece off and as well to get that new rotor on and off the end of the distributor shaft a couple times. Think all that struggling around caused some harm to the distributor? Like I mentioned, though, I do get spark from all plug wires upon checking with spark tester. Although not really sure about how strong looking the spark is supposed to look like with those things. But I do get spark, all wires.

holmesnmanny

The spark should be orange. Here's what you do since I believe my h22 actually starts one off from yours.

Remove the cap. Remove all four spark plugs. Turn the front left wheel all the way to left. Turn the crank pulley in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE order using a 19mm socket...I think the spark plug socket will work to if you don't have a 19mm socket. Do this until you are Top Dead Center and the lines line up at the crank pulley. I'm hoping you know what this means. It's important to turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE and not clockwise. The distributor rotor will turn clockwise since it's going in the opposite direction looking at it. When you get to top dead center at the crank pulley where the crank pulley mark line will line up with the line on the lower timing cover, the distributor rotor will be at the number cylinder position. Put the distributor cap back on the distributor. Then put the number 1 spark plug wire on the cap at the same position that the distributor rotor was and then next in a clockwise order will be 3 then 4 then 2. Put spark plugs back in and remove the socket from the crank pulley as well as the wrench. lol i forgot to remove this one time and luckily it fell off, and you should be good to go.

Keep in mind that number one cylinder is closest to the driving side. Going towards the left looking from the front of the car will be two, then three, then four which will be furthest on the passenger side.

PearlsOwner

Sorry bud, for some reason I am only getting a few posts in each thread. Not just here but a few other forums as well. Was only a few posts showing when I posted this
"But I can hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when I turn the key to II (on). I can hear it hum when I listen carefully while the check engine light is on. I thought this is the indicator that the main relay is doing its job, working as it should"
After you check the timing if there isnt an issue check and make sure you didnt damage any wires next to or going into the distributor. If everything is still good pull the main and check. I know you are hearing the fuel pump come on and I am willing to bet if you checked for fuel it will have some kind of pressure. Just saying it because mine did and it was still the main relay. I dont remember what the pressure was but enough to shoot gas up with some force.