speedjunkie_g35

There was a company that made a metal reinforcement to install behind the door handles on a civic because that was a weak point and allowed easy access for thief's to unlock the doors.

I found a thread that had a link to this site back when I first bought my hatch, two years ago. Since I have done a swap and it is about to be road worthy again I am wanting to start on my security measures. I have been looking for the past few months and I can't seem to find the thread or the web site for the life of me. I was wondering if anyone knew what I was talking about and where I could find them?

Thank you for the assistance

confidence

here ya go

http://www.jimmijammer.com/

fcm

Most cars are broken into buy busting the glass, a crook does not care if he damages the car, he just wants in, if he encounters a jimmi jammer He will just bust the glass and so will you if you ever lock your keys in the car, AAA is not going to be able to open the doors either.

Invest in a good alarm and you will not even need to lock the doors, if a door is opened the alarm will go off, just as fast as if they bust a window or jimmi it, and no damage to the car.

Crooks are not too bright, they will try a door to see if it is locked, they do not expect it to open and when it does and the alarm goes off, it is unecpected and tends to make the crook pee his pants and run away like the chicken chit turd he is. 94

wtf_is_jdm

I view that a little bit differently. Being in the towing industry myself as well as subcontracting for AAA, There are more options to vehicle entry than just your average slim jim. I prefer using a plastic wedge wrapped in a t-shirt and gently prying back the door just enough to slip my airbag in. I give it a few pumps and it leaves about 1" to 1 1/2" of a gap between the door and chassis. Then the 48" rod with a 90 degree tip usually finishes the job. These days it seems definitely a lot quicker and more cost effective (payout of job versus time involved to complete) to use this method and if done correctly, no damage should come of it. One of the risks involved would be to pry the door too much and shatter the window. Unfortunately those things do happen (hopefully not on any of my runs) and there is a waiver in place that is signed by the customer to protect ourselves against the repercussions of that. Everyone should be aware that there are associated risks involved when using alternate methods of entry into the vehicle. Especially with some of the newer vehicles. With newer chassis designs being more fluid and seamless, it makes the task of dropping a wedge in the door more difficult. And there are a few higher end vehicles the will actually lock back as soon as the lock/unlock switch is toggled. On those in particular, a technician from the dealer is sometimes required to come out and use basically a master transponder of sorts. (haven't seen it done yet but really interested to know more about this process in particular) Which could also be pretty pricey.

I am soon to purchase this kit for myself to keep at home in the event that either I or my fiance screw up and lock ourselves out of our cars and I do not have the company truck at my expense. And with lockout kits getting pretty expensive, this is a super great value. Also keep in mind that any average joe can purchase these and that if a thief wants it, said thief will get it... Hopefully this little tidbit helps someone out there somewhere lol.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/stbiglwenowe.html

fcm

"There are more options to vehicle entry than just your average slim jim"

Tell me about it, I have yet to run into a car I can not get into, [without damage] mostly with "tools" I have made myself, including the old standby a coat hanger, most of the others are made from old SS car and CB ant., a few rubber door stops, I even have a SlimJim.

With that said, the point here is a crook is just going to bust the window if he can't get in some other way, end result is he gets in and the car is damaged.

Your statement, "if a thief wants it, said thief will get it..." is defeatist, I have had 5 attempts, [that I know of] on my car, the first one, back in 94, cost me a new pass. side window, the alarm and kill switches prevented theft of the car or anything in it, that's when I decided never to lock the doors again when in a "risky" area.

There is a saying "locked doors only keep honest people out".

The other 4 attempts that I know about cost me my ashtray with some parking meter change and "pennies from heaven", [for tailgaters] $1 at PicknPull.

The last attempt was a biggy, buy what must have been the dumbest crook in my town.

I had parked the car at work one evening, [no other parking avalable downtown that was free].

This dumb *** popped the hood and pull the batt. cable to kill the alarm, did some damage to ign. switch trying to get it started, [latching relay prevented that] this is the dummy part he called a tow truck explaining someone had tried to steel his car and now it would not start and needed it towed home, how was he to know the tow truck operator was a friend of mine.

The good part, the crook got caught, and we had the address where car was going, ended up being a chop shop so my friend and I shared a Crimestopper reward my share more then paid for the damage to my ign. switch, [new lock cylinder] and the very best part, the crook had to pay "drop charge" to the tow company.

Moral of the story, if there is one, no they will not necessarily get it.

Getting into the car is never a problem for a crook, it only takes a few simple things to prevent damage and/or theft of car and although this crook bypassed my alarm, [before the BU batt. and stealth install] he was prevented from taking the car because of a $3.95 DPST relay. 94

Axatax

I have the Jimmi-jammers in my 2000 Civic. These do not prevent the use of a "slim jim"-type device to open the doors, at least on an EJ/EK style door. They are designed to stop a specific type of attack on the door handle and punching of the lock cylinder from the outside.

In the case of the EK-style door, there is already a plastic guard behind the handle which protects the link rods to some degree from a slim-jim.

I agree 100% with the assessment that the alarm is ultimately the better option. If the door can be opened, then this eliminates the need to force or break the door/window to gain entry. If the alarm is installed correctly, the end result is a tripped alarm (and an immobilized vehicle) regardless of how the thief gained entry.

A common attack vector on these doors in the S. Florida area is the use of a blood-pressure cuff to separate the outer door panel from the window to gain access to the lock rods. Nothing will protect against this with the exception of an alarm.

If you're concerned about a slim-jim, thin CPVC pipe over the lock rods is effective, but as stated, there are other ways to gain access to vehicle.

speedjunkie_g35

I didn't really think about it but I have unlocked a dozen honda's just by prying the top of the window frame and sliding a coat hanger down and popping the lock.

It makes sense to leave the doors unlocked to prevent damage and just have a good security system. I think I will pass on this form of security.

What brand does every body like for alarms. I am going to get a two-way setup. I currently have viper 2-way alarms with remote starts on my other vehicles but I dont care for the latest version of the viper remotes. I am constantly unlocking the doors or starting it up with the remote being in my pockets.

Thanks guys