71chevelleSS

Hey everyone first thing I would like to say is Im new here but I am not new to the game. Just wanted to post up my swap I did and hopefully try to compose information for every situation of a h22 swap in preludes.

First off I started with a h22a4 i know i know but I got a good deal and couldnt pass it up. I got the engine complete with all sensors dizzy etc etc. I noticed that I was either going to have to swap the distributor to a obd1 h23or reuse and repin the obd2 to obd1 and manually wire in the ckp and tdc sensor from the crank to the obd1 harness side plug via a shielded radio cable. Well I successfully made both work. I actually made my own conversion harness so that I didnt have to cut up my engine harness at all so If I wanted to return to the obd1 style dizzy (which I did) all I have to do was simply unplug the harness. if anyone wants my info on this just ask and I will edit and include it.



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Next step was once I had my engine out was to swap and compare brackets etc etc to mount my accessories. I kept my ac and alt and currently am working out a solution to ease the power steering bracket mods. Pretty much all f22 and h23 brackets swap over. I dont know about the h23 but I do know that the f22 power steering bracket will require a little finness to make work but I will include what I did when I finish with mine.

Now all my accessories are on (alt and ac) Now it was time to start fitting the harness. I placed the harness over the motor and laid out everything. I used my obd2 injector so with this I had to eliminate the resistor box which is located on the driver side in the back corner on top in the engine bay. Best way to do this is to simply depin the connector from the engine harness side and push those pins in one of the multi ground connectors honda uses making a easy plug and play connection so if you ever wanted to return to stock you still ahve the connectors and simply depin and repin.



Now I soldered in the obd2 injector clips to my obd1 harness mainly for the clean oem look. Here you really cant go wrong just make sure you find your commons. On the obd1 its red with a black stripe and on obd2 its yellow with a black stripe. After that you have red blue brown and yellow just matching to there corresponding colors. Now your injectors are done! Easier if you had obd1 injector cause then there plug and play but I used what I had and I like the plastic covers better on the obd2 also.



Next f22's do not have knock sensors but h23's do. If you have an h23 car skip this step. If you have a f22 you need to get a knock sensor for a h22 or a h23 with the pigtail connector. You also want to get about 4 ft of shielded radio wire for this. Here you just sold the single wire to your knock sensor pigtail and run the other end into the cabin straight to D3 on the ecu. Now what I did with the radio shieled wire I cut a slit in the middle of the wire by the closest to the dizzy harness reason is to bare the metal shieled and pull some out. Make sure you can solder a wire to it so tin it with solder. Now bare the dizzy harness downwords a bit to get to the shielded wired there and basically do the same thing you did with the knock sensor shielding and solder the shielding together. the makes the wire fully protected from unwanted interference. Now just tape up the KS wire to the harness and route the cleanest way you can find.

Next is the oil pressure sensor on the back of the block. You can use the h22 one and change the harness connector or you can use your f22 one. Either one works. I used my f22 sensor so I didnt have to add a connector here. H23 guys will have the appropriate connector already.

Ok now on to the vtech pressure switch and solenoid. the solenoid should have a yellow and green wire going to this. Basically wire this straight to A4 on the ecu. Just run the wire but dont pin it to the ecu till you run the vtech oil pressure switch black with a blue stripe down that way you can run them together for a cleaner look. The wire the Black with blue stripe to D6 and yellow with green stripe to A4. The second wire off of the oil pressure sensir on mine was brown with black stripe. This is the ground just mate it to a secure engine ground.

For all other sensors everything is plug in play unless you have an obd2 motor. Mine was and I ended up using a h23 throttle body to make everything fit perfectly. You can use the obd2 TB but the map sensor will have to be plugged and or extend the wires to reach.

O2 sensor. From what I am getting and I am still unsure is that the f22 o2 sensor is different then the h22 and will not work (will throw a code) but here basically just extend the wires on the o2 sensor to reach the harness plug. I used an obd2 exhaust mani so I had to extend the flange to reach my exhaust. However some people so the flange is different but from my h22a4 to my f22 it fit fine just needed to cut and lengthen then weld thats all. There will be two wire on the o2 sensor that are the same color however it doesnt matter if you get them backwards. There just for the heater resistance. Now your down here.

Mounts hmmmm cant just let it sit in there can we? Well I used my f22 tranny vs the h22 for reasons of having longer gears and I swear up and down that its faster. I have even ran other prelude same gen with the h22 tranny and I always walk them with ease bare in mind my motor is bone stock still less and axle back and intake thats adds 500hp!!!! lmao. I used the rear mount and obviously my trans mount due to my donor motor being obd2 so if yours is make sure you swap the rear mount. Now the drivers mount is different to. Not the part that bolts to the block but the rubber perch and such just swap it from your original motor and your good to go unless your talks like terrance and phillip from southpark like mine did! Then my friends you need a new one!

F22 and h23 flywheels fit h22's no problem at all! Swap how you like just make sure you get the clutch for the flyhweels you use.

Last but not least is obd2 engine only have one fan temp switch on the thermostat housing. Now the f22 has two and I believe the obd1 h22's have two as well. Simply just swap the front coolant neck of the block of the h23 or f22 to the h22 if yours is obd2 or does not have one. Also h22 prelude 98 sh axles work on our f22 chassis prelude and tranny. Just have to remove the a little shield on the inner of the hubs for them to clear otherwise there a straight drop in!




Ok now on for my questions about my current swap it runs great idle is a little choppy everyonce in a while. I am using the f22 o2 sensor currently which I believe is why I am getting a code 1. I am also getting a code 22 for the vtech oil pressure switch but not right away. It only happens when my car sometime doesnt hit vtech and redlines at 6500. Would the o2 sensor cause this with the cel? Now the oil pressure switch I am pulling out today to clean and check it so we will see. Its a intermittent problem with vtech not engaging. so i am not 100% sure of what do here.

1GPlusSH

anybody else laugh at the "no noobs"?

have you checked your oil level? if you have, are you sure you're getting enough oil pressure for VTEC? if VTEC isn't engaging and you're getting a "vtec oil pressure" code....

n0rmaL

lol what ecu are you using and why didnt you use obd1 injectors??? and its vtec not vtech

ssmbb2

I wish I could write in bold to keep the noobs off of my ****.

71chevelleSS

Oil level is good just topped off with mobil 1. Also oil pressue on gauge at 5,000 rpm is around 65psi.

My car wasnt prewired for vtech so I had to wire it myself but I used a spare harness and used all original matching color wires. On my pressure switch the black with blue stripe went to D6 and I ran the other wire(brown with black stripe) straight to a secure engine ground. that is correct right? I looked everywhere and it points to YES but I just want to make sure.

71chevelleSS

Sorry made a typo Im a mechanic not a typist or whatever they are called. If you are also ragging on my spelling now I will rag on your reading abillity as it clearly states in what I wrote above why I didnt decide to go with obd1 injectors. Ecu is also a p13 ecu out of a 95 and no not automatic but manual.

71chevelleSS

Please take retarded replies elsewhere. I simply put that to keep the dreamers out. I dont want people who have not even owned a h22 or even worked on one for that matter trying to tell me whats wrong as so many people get mislead on here and it either takes a moderator or someone intelligent to clear it up. I wrote in bold to make it easier on people to read no other reason.


I am taking the oil pressure switch and vtech solenoid off tomorrow to clean it. If it is the switch thats bad how would I go about testing an intermittent switch? Also would an obd2 o2 sensor work on the obd1 ecu?

ksman06

hello does anybody have any suggestion on a good brand aftermarket fuel rail and injector system?

1GPlusSH

i'm sure you wired it correctly, but i would check and double check. i would put my money on the wiring.

1GPlusSH

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ressure+switch

n0rmaL

so your using obd1 ecu and obd1 dizzy with obd2 injectors... interesting

white92lude

You need to run the obd1 prelude injectors!!!!!!!!!!!

your car stock has peak and hold style injectors which use a resistor box. the obd1 h22 ran with the stock obd1 p13 should be ran with the factory 345cc h22 obd1 injectors which will also use your factory resistor box and will plug right in.

the obd2 preludes use saturated style injectors which should not be used with a resistor box. plus obd2 prelude injectors are 290cc. the p13 ecu has fuelmaps for the 345cc size injectors.

i would fix this ASAP!

71chevelleSS

please read my full post before posting otherrwise dont post. It says above I already modded my wiring to delete the resistor box in order to use obd2 injectors. Also triple checked my wiring and its oem legit. However I took apart the vtech oil pressure switch and solenoid and cleaned them. This fixxed my problem, I still have a code 1 though for the o2 sensor. But I did reuse the f22's o2 so does anyone know if the obd2 h22 o2 will work as I have that on hand.

Also can anyone confirm what cc are obd2 prelude injectors? My car runs really well so I highly doubt they will be a problem but I would like to know if whiteludes info is correct.thank you!

white92lude

I just read the part about the injectors and didnt see anything about the resistor box. I now see where you talked about it later on in the post. If you do not want help then I wont give you any. And if you research, you will find that the obdII prelude injectors are 290cc. An easy google search will show you

The f22 o2 should be the same.. i used my factory f22 o2 when i swapped my h22a4 into my old cb7 accord with no problems. is the obd2 o2 sensor the primary or secondary one?

71chevelleSS

yes. If you compare wiring schematics for a 92 prelude to a 96 or 97 up all honda did was use a universal grounding connector to bypass the resistor box. This is the only mod needed to run obd2 injectors and I must say its quite simple. However l dont know about injector cc's on the cars I believe taking out the rs box makes them work like 345cc injectors.

95Prelude2go

Well yes I am new to this site and is the way I can go if I want to put an h22a4 into my 95 prelude with an f22a1 in it. Can I wire it the way chevelle said

Tommin8r103

I was always told that cheap oil filters like Fram do not allow enough oil to flow through to le the v-tec engage either. Don't know what kind of filter you have on it or if that is even true!

1GPlusSH

that's hogwash

Tommin8r103

I was told that by a Certified Honda Tecnician.

Had a code on my 2007 Pilot and he told me the Fram filter was not allowing enough oil flow to let the vtec kick in...just sayin!!

minilogoguy18

The Pilot is different, the spool valve housing is all one piece with the oil filter housing.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NER+%28+05-%29

A crappy filter on that V6 engine can essentially do the same thing as having a clogged screen but unlikely on the H22.

1GPlusSH

interesting...once you changed it, no more codes?

Tommin8r103

No more codes and I have driven it 15,000 miles and changed the oil 3 more times at the dealer of course. Doesn't really help for the problem on this post though I guess!

Sorry!

toxic2990

thx for everything help full ..... wanna know ..i have a 1992 lude and a h22a4 and after i plug in my v-tec its don't wanna start anymore i dint plug my knock sensor i wanna know if it can be the problem or if its my v tec ....