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Old 09-15-2010, 05:42 PM   #1
aasarsak
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Default Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

Should there be continuity between the two terminals circled in red below?
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:59 PM   #2
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Default Re: Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

Alright, i went through my 1991 civic service manual wiring diagrams, and i couldn't find the exact documentation to prove or disprove that there should be continuity, unequivocally.

I feel confident in saying though, that looking at the diagrams, It looks like connector c973 (Backside of the dash fuse box) is fused from the "main" (underhood) fuse box fuse #32, the 50 amp fuse, and is a passthrough to c959 which is the front side of the fuse box to the 4 prong ignition switch connector, which then sends power back out to the dash wiring harness and starter solenoid, without fusing through the dash box. I also have seen the thickness of the wires from that location to the ignition switch, and have no problem believing they could carry 50 amps.

In other words, i am about 98% confident that there should be continuity. Unfortunately, i don't have an extra box handy, so I can't test it to be 100% sure.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:07 AM   #3
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Default Re: Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

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Originally Posted by sanimalp View Post
Alright, i went through my 1991 civic service manual wiring diagrams, and i couldn't find the exact documentation to prove or disprove that there should be continuity, unequivocally.

I feel confident in saying though, that looking at the diagrams, It looks like connector c973 (Backside of the dash fuse box) is fused from the "main" (underhood) fuse box fuse #32, the 50 amp fuse, and is a passthrough to c959 which is the front side of the fuse box to the 4 prong ignition switch connector, which then sends power back out to the dash wiring harness and starter solenoid, without fusing through the dash box. I also have seen the thickness of the wires from that location to the ignition switch, and have no problem believing they could carry 50 amps.

In other words, i am about 98% confident that there should be continuity. Unfortunately, i don't have an extra box handy, so I can't test it to be 100% sure.
Thanks for trying. After spending all night scouring the internet, and running continuity tests throughout the wire harness, the best I can figure is that there is a relay somewhere between the two plugs. The terminal I asked about that was on the same side as the fuses is the starter signal wire (BLK/WHT) from the ignition switch. The other one I asked about goes to the starter (also BLK/WHT). I didn't have continuity between the two, so I removed the fuse box and took it apart (see below). The starter signal wire is fed from a combination of two thin wires, and a thick BLK/RED wire (same thickness as starter wire).

I asked this question because during an alarm install, I suddenly was getting nothing when attempting to start. Long story short, I had the clutch safety bypass switch wired incorrectly. I got it fixed, and the remote start works just fine now, along with the kill switch.

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Old 09-16-2010, 06:27 AM   #4
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Default Re: Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

Funny about this post....I just fixed this in my 91 CRX Si car last night.

The black/white starter wire from the ignition switch to the starter to become interrupted. I suspect it was caused by a short/bad ground I recently had.

The white/black wire starts at the main fuse box believe it is the middle wire in the group of three in the rear), then to the ignition key, through the key ignition key where it changes to black/white, then connects to the front of the fuse box. In the fuse box it is tapped by 10A fuse #2 which sends voltage to the starter sensor. The wire continues to the back of the fuse box. From there it is part of a harness connector at the top of the front passenger shock tower, then to the starter solenoid.

First thing to do it check that the solenoid is working by putting a jump from the Battery positive terminal to the spade lead on the solenoid. If the solenoid reacts, good. If not, check for a bad ground (chassis rail under battery to clutch mount bracket to tranny case to starter casing - started is grounded through the case to the tranny.) or replace the solenoid.

Then I check continuity on each piece of the white/black and black/white from the main fuse box to the starter. I had a break in continuity through the fuse box. If you unplug both plugs of the black/white into the fuse box and connect a jumper between, you should have continuity from the ignition key to the solenoid.

Instead of replacing the fuse box and leaving both plugs plugged into the fuse box, I permanently spliced a wire from the black/white to black/white bypassing the fuse box. The black/whites still continue to the fuse box. Resolved.
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:54 PM   #5
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Default Re: Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

Damn.. That is great information. Looking back at the diagrams, i see that the #2 fuse was staring me in the face in the diagram, so there is a fusible link in the dash for that wire. This thread gets 5 stars for me.. good info.
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:38 PM   #6
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Default Re: Fuse box continuity (starter wire)

Quote:
Originally Posted by raffaelli View Post
Instead of replacing the fuse box and leaving both plugs plugged into the fuse box, I permanently spliced a wire from the black/white to black/white bypassing the fuse box. The black/whites still continue to the fuse box. Resolved.
Umm, good luck with that. as you can see in the service manual diagram below, doing so will bypass the starter relay. This means that you will have too much current flowing through the starter signal wire (about 16 awg). This could overload your ECU and/or other circuits that share that line. The BLK/WHT wire coming from the ignition switch goes through the fuse box, to the starter relay, then back through the fuse box, then to the starter. This also disables your clutch interlock (safety) switch.

Honda designed it that way for a reason. Hope the diagram below helps...
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