ReedMann

iTrader: (11)

What track will you be at this weekend? VIR?

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

Thats awesome !!! Paint color looks nice too.

mattrt09

aww ya i got a name drop lol jp

SHG_EasyE

WGI this weekend then LRP next

skipunk4

Never cease to amaze me man, such motivating work

SHG_James

x2! When will the A2 be going in?

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

He said over the winter I thought.

SHG_EasyE

Hey guys, been really really busy lately... But in between traveling I managed to pick up my wrenches from the water jet cutter, as well as the hardened dowels from the machinist.

I designed these in order to dis-assemble my new shocks for setting the floating piston depth, and filling/bleeding the shocks with new oil. Thanks to SHG_Mike for drawing up the designs in CAD

One for the front shock, one for the rear shock, and one for the canisters... Here they are in different stages of preparation. I started with the bare water jet cut parts and beveled all the edges. Then bead blasted them and TIG welded the dowels.









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Here they are all done! I put an extra bead on the wrench for the canisters since the dowels are so long I felt it could use some extra reinforcement.





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My new shock oil also came in today. I chose this brand and weight after consulting with John at AST suspension who has been a big help

3 liters of Maxima Racing shock oil... I chose the 3wt because thinner oils, like 0wt, typically have the least amount of hysteresis (compressibility of damper fluid from high pressures in the damper, causing a lag in response of the damper), but they get contaminated and breakdown quicker. The 3wt is the best balance of low hysteresis and durability. The 7wt has more hysteresis, but is longer lasting.





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More updates when I get back from Limerock this weekend!

Lazybean

Sick update, did you treat them with anything after bead blasting?

SHG_EasyE

Im hoping to have them painted today before I leave for the track so they can cure over the weekend

Last thing I have to do now is make a tool to thread into the floating piston to run it through its stroke to bleed the canister/line and to set the depth. Once that's done I can refill them with new fluid, bleed, and install!

SHG_Mike

Wrenches came out minty. The text looks better then in my drawings lol. I Guess it smooths out when scaled

SHG_Claudio

Impeccable work once again! Only you would rebuild brand new shocks!

SHG_EasyE

Well im not rebuilding them. since I had to separate the lines to change the front top hats the shocks need to be de pressurized, bled, ad topped off with fluid. While I'm in there I'm replacing the fluid since I have no idea what weight/quality fluid is in them from the manufacturer. I'll also take measurements on the seals and valve shims so I can try to source replacements for an in-house rebuild down the road.

mattrt09

very smart to do all of that at the same time. I'd be interested to see pictures of this process..not necessarily step by step but just an idea, ive never seen anyone do it.

SHG_EasyE

I'll def be taking alot of photos of the process!

mattrt09

slowata

So here's a generic EP3 question for you:

From what I can tell, you're still running a mildly modified K20A3, correct? Do you ever feel inclined to swap to a K20A2 or is there enough power for the car to be fun?

I ask because the EP3 has a certain appeal to me as it is a hatchback, has a K-Series, and is relatively cheap to buy, I'm just worried that, were I to buy one, I would immediately regret not having sprung the extra cash for an RSX-S.

SHG_Mike

If you go back in the pages he's got an A2 in the works. Personally I would prefer a A2 EP3 over an dc5 but if you don't want to swap then I would go with a type s from the get go.

SHG_EasyE

I would say the car can be enjoyable with the A3 and a 6spd trans, but in stock form is pretty dull. I'm doing an A2 swap with a 5.4 final drive and some bolt ons. Hoping for 210whp then I'll be happy till the end of time :-P

[ej]Jonathan

dont let solbrothers see this...

SHG_Mike

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SHG_EasyE

Little update here!

I was able to spray the wrenches with some Suzuka green last week before I left







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also picked up my shoulder bushings for the new top hats as well as my reservoir clamps from the machine shop. The clamps needed to machined a bit larger to fit the reservoirs...







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Then I spent a little time disassembling one of the canisters to take measurements of the compression shim stack to see if Ill be able to get replacement shims in the future to change valving if i want to.

Heres a good visual to show how the valving is changed when adjustments are made to the high speed compression ****. These control fluid flow once the low speed bleed valve is overwhelmed, allowing fluid to "blow by". In the softest setting the shims are only slightly tensioned, allowing fluid to pass through relatively easily.



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And then when the **** is turned to full stiff (4 positions) the shims are compressed, creating force against each other making it more difficult for the fluid to push against the bottom of the valve stack and between it and the piston.



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Heres the shim stack disassembled. The compression shims seen here are standard 12mm Bilstien size and can be swapped out with thicker or thinner parts easily

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

Pretty awesome. Love that color too

Lazybean

immense

SHG_Mike

thats what I wanted to hear!