tien2

Hi all,

I want to apologize beforehand as I know could have posted in the TL/RL forum but there’s no traffic there and I don’t think anyone has done the PFM conversion for the 2G RL (not that I know of). I figure the PFM conversion is similar to the DC5/EP3 since there is no relay needed and all you have to do is route the 2 PFM wires on each mirrors to the 2 pin position on the PFM switch.
I am 80% done w/ my PFM conversion but I can’t for the life of me get my mirrors to fold in/out when I press the button on the switch. The mirrors do work as I tested it using the battery as my 12v source.

I have identified the two wires from both mirrors and the 2 pins on the switch where the two PFM wires will insert to. I am using the ground wire on the switch and there’s an empty slot on the switch, which is the positive wire for the PFM. I inserted a pigtail pin into the empty slot but for some reason I am not getting any power when I connect the wires up and press the button. I’ve tried the normal method and reverse polarity. I tried using a test light by connecting the clip to the ground wire on the switch and turning on my ignition and putting the needle on the positive wire but it isn’t lighting up.

I have tried using my radio as a source for a 12v but the mirror motor is always turning even if the engine is on/off. According to the diagram, the wires are correct and the switch works because my mirror adjust/tilts.

My question is what 12v source can I use to get my mirror to fold in/out using my switch since the 12v source on the switch obviously is not getting any power. Don't know if it make a difference or not but I only hooked up the driver's PFM to the switch since I want to get it to fold in/out before I start w/ the passenger side.

Any help would be appreciated and I am completely stumped.

TIA,
Bruce

Type-Spaz

I doubt it makes a difference but I had issues using power leads like the radio because they are not a constant 12v with ignition on/off. I had a lot of electrical issues with some gauges and that was the source of the issue. They had power but didn't work correctly because of the on/off ignition turn.

Use a constant 12v through on/off ignition and see if it helps. I can see tonight which 12v I'm running my power stuff off of.

tien2

Thanks for the reply.

When you have time, can you find out for me?

I figured out the reason why the motor kept spinning becuase when I tested it, I used the actual turn actuator unit and connect it to the switch. When I installed the unit on the base of the mirror, there's a locking mechanism to prevent the motor from continously running.

I guess when I do find a good source I'll use a fuse jumper to wire the switch power wire to. I still don't understand why I'm not getting any power from my power wire from the switch. I guess it's back to the drawing board.