flip_nl

Hi! I'm Philip and I life in the Netherlands, and this thread will be about my trackcar, it will be a slow but steady build!

I will drive this car at Zandvoort, Assen, Spa, Zolder and maybe even the Nurburgring

(all within a 320km radius)

After parting out my previous car (ed6 with b16a1), I swore to never buy a car build by another again (virtually everything that could be wrong was wrong).

Anyways!



Febuary 2009 I Bought a OEM edm eg4, I intended to use the car as a daily and decided to not modify the car at al. 6 months later the car was already equipped with a b18c4 (edm gsr) and mb6 brakes (same size as 98 spec itr, expect bolt pattern). Since then I am gradually building the car into a relaible trackday car.

The spec list at the moment (in a nutt shell)

Exterior:
Home made splitter/airdam
Lexan windows (except front window)
CF hood
Polyester doors
A big spoiler.

Interior:
Oil temp, oil presure and water temp gauges
PLX 02 wideband sensor (touchscreen)
Sabelt titan XL seat (FIA)
6pt belts (FIA)
Flp Shortshifter
QSP killswitch (FIA)

Suspension:
Racinggear JTC n1 coilovers
SPC uppercontrol arms, camber/caster adjustable
Energy Suspension master kit (on my way replacing this for spherical bushings)
OEM EG6 swaybars
CRX mk2 JDM lowercontrol arms (spherical)
Spherical camberkit
Spherical toe kit
Ultraracing 3-punts strutbrace
Ultraracing 3-punts fenderbraces
OEM ITR subframe brace
Yokohama advan a048 semi-slicks (195/55/15)
Quaife steering rack (2.47 LTL)
OMP Cage with add'ons

Brakes:
mb6 brakes (98 spec itr size with 4x114,3)
1" mb cylinder
eg6 propvalve
proper ducting

engine and drivetrain:
EDM b18c4
different intake
Kidd racing RMF replica header
2,5 inch catback
Mfactory oil cooler kit
Hasport motor mounts (u94a)
JDM itr 98 spec transmission (replaced the 4th and 5th gears with shorter ones)
Fidanza 3,4 kg flywheel

Electrical:
Wireloom stripped
Moates demon


Plans:
1,5 way plate lsd
4.928 straight cut final drive (I broke the stock unit)
better block breathing system
Adjustable brake prop valve
helm-joint steering rods (hope to minimise bumpsteer)
ITR 98 spec cams and rdx injectors
retune
Spherical bushings all around
More aero
MORE SEAT TIME

Photos from the last time attended the track (zandvoort), the clutch virtually

exploded then, at the time I'm rebuilding the car and saving up for next season.





You find more pics on my webpage (Ph-Motorsports) or facebook (https://www.facebook.com/PhMotorsports)

VTed

G'day from Australia !
Great looking car you have there and the ability to go to all those great race tracks makes me very jealous.

chargeR

I think we've all been there, deciding not to modify a car and then bam it ends up on track! Where did you get the lexan windows? Fitment looks good?

If you're interested, a friend of mine down here in Australia and I are developing some tie rod ends to correct bump steer, see his post here: LINK

flip_nl

Thanks!

The windows are from plastics4performance, fitment is great. Service of the dutch supplier is shitty however.

That tie rod ends look great, looks like you put a lot of effort in it!

Destructo

wow the car looks pretty rad

flip_nl

Update time:

Made a switch panel due to removing the stock keystarter unit, I am not waiting for this to happen :



(wire ends are isolated, after pic was shot)

Also in my spare time I am trying to accomplish a true scale model for cfd's (autodesk cfd, as I am more familiar with autodesk products) made my 3d model true 1:1 scale, however I am kinda stuck at the moment (trying to convert multiple surface body's to 1 solid in inventor).



Also found a bargain:



Mounted after much dremel work







2kg lighter each compared to the stock unit's.

Also removed more "junk" from the car:





Saved 2.8kg from the hood alone, also due to the new fenders I had to remove the fender brackets (1.8kg each)
Total weight saving: 10.8kg on the right end of the car (balance)

Starting to wonder about the total weight of the car and cross weights when I'm done with it.

Recieved my mfactory 1.5 plate LSD, how do you adjust the setting? as it didn't came with any sort of manual :S
For the final drive unit, I will order a 4.928 straight cut from gear-x some time soon , I managed to wreck my stock 98spec fd

Also recieved my new catchcan system, downside however is that some stock components need to moved. (like the fuelfilter, oil cooler plumbing etc) didn't take into account that the unit was this big lol.

Bump steer related: which scale of dail gauge do you guys use?

chargeR

When I measured the bump steer on my car I used normal 20mm travel dial guages, and my wheels had a nice flat surface for them to sit against. They ran out of travel before I cycled through the range of travel I wanted, due to how much the track width changes with bump.

Here's my original post from another forum:

flip_nl

It's been awhile, mostly been waiting for parts/holidays/daily driver failures


New rearbumper, makes more room for a bigger diffusser/different exhaust

Recieved all the misc. parts to complete this stage of building (BWR catchcan, shorter FD, metal plate LSD, AN couplings etc)


gear-x 4.928 straight cut fd


1,5 way plate lsd



trannystuff mounted

Found some POS headlights which make up for great covers:





to be continued...

KanjoEFsedan

Awesome build !

flip_nl

It's been a while due to graduating my bsc, low funds, fixing daily's etc...So progres is slow

Anyways!

New skirts, fenders, headlight covers, fresh paint.





Little test-run before breaking in the LSD.


I realize that its not much to show for the blind eye, but perfecting things can be very time consuming.

Even though a lot things need to happen before I can tune the car on the dyno, but I will post results /viddy when this happens

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Nice looking car...
What exactly did you test run?
Can you explain polyester doors? who makes them, cost etc.

flip_nl

Hey,

I had to check the transmission for functionality, check the engine for leaks, noises etc. aka usual after a overhaul.

The doors I bought secondhand, however I believe they are made by/imported (who knows lol) by a dutch company named KB tuning, which core business is supply "enthouisiasts" to "rape" cars with fugly bodykits etc.

However, the doors had a great fitment, and I achieved quite a bit weight loss (40kg ish) by installing them.

Honda Civic 91-96 Hatchback Rechtse Deur Lightweight OEM KB7-Tuning-HCHB-92RD-01 - - KBTuning - Grote Voorraad Tuning Bodykits Tegen de Beste P

Calif_Kid

For the brakes, you mentioned 'proper ducting'. What size hoses did you run? Also, is the cooling duct connected to some type of backing plate so most of the air goes to the inside of the rotor instead of hitting the inside face of the rotor? If your cooling duct is connected to some type of backing plate and moves with the wheel, then do you have any issues with the cooling duct contacting anything like the axles or tires when you turn the wheels fully? Pictures would be great.

PS - I've got cooling ducts, but they are just attached to the end of the lower control arms and don't move with the wheels, and a good amount of the air probably hits the inside face of rotor instead of mainly going to the inside of the rotor, and I've heard that if too much air hits the inside face of the rotor instead of to the inside of it, that you can vibration which is why I'm asking about your setup. Thanks!! - Jim

flip_nl

Hey,

I'm running 63mm or 2"31/64 diameter hosing.

I can't seem to find recent pictures, however I have some pics when I mocked it up for the first time:


Funnel is long way gone lol, needed some thing cheap for mockup lolol.





No backingplate (yet!) so you see. Haven't had any issues regarding fading or vibration.

Calif_Kid

Philip - thanks for the pictures!! We've got similar setups, but your picture above has the duct quite a bit higher than how my bracket is setup, so I'll look into modifying mine. I know that some of the cooling air will hit the front knuckle (where the bracket bolts on), but your setup at least doesn't have the air directed at the inner face of the rotor. Just wondering - how much clearance is there from your duct hose to the widest part of the CV boot? - Jim

Amen1

Nice track car

flip_nl

I shall take pictures when I'm at the car again next weekend!


Amen1, thx dude!

RoadRaceH2B

Nice track car! I can tell English isn't your first language, yet you write better sentences than 99% of Americans on this site.

Here's mine:

https://honda-tech.com/appearance-bu...reams-3257221/

Any advice appreciated.

Calif_Kid

Thanks for doing that. I assume that the ducts are cutoff short enough so you can make full lock to lock turns, and just slightly compress/touch the brake duct hoses. - Jim

Calif_Kid

This last weekend, I removed my cooling ducts since most of the air was hitting the inside face of the rotor, and I was getting a lot of vibration under braking. I left my steel brackets that were attached to the lower bolt of the shock absorber in place, and just removed the duct hoses. With the car on jackstands, there was plenty of clearance from the wheel rim to the steel brackets, but when I unloaded the car at the track, I was getting a bad metal scraping sound at full lock in the paddock. I found that with the car on jackstands, there was plenty of clearance from the steel brackets to the wheel rim inner face, but when I lowered the car back to the ground, then there wasn't nearly as much clearance, plus I have my wheel weights on the inner edge of the wheels (I use Enkei RPF1 15x7 wheels with ITR/Honda V6 calipers, so there isn't much clearance between the brakes and the wheels).

My car has spherical bearings, so not sure if a standard bushing at the lower shock would show the same change as I saw above. if the picture you have of the bracket holding the cooling hose is with the car on jackstands, then does it still stay pointed correctly at the inner hub as you lower the car back to the ground?

I was looking at a nice Mazda RX8 race car this weekend, and it was interesting to see how he had to snake the cooling hose through the suspension and steering arm, but he had a backing plate where he could attach the end of the cooling hose to. He didn't have to worry about clearing a front axle or CV joint, but it was still interesting to see how he snaked the cooling hose.
- Jim