darrona

Does anyone have a trick way of fabricating a brake ducting system for the front brakes on 3rd gen integra? I will be going to a heavy braking track in two weeks and could use any amount of cooling... The last time I was at this track I got my Hawk Blues to fade slightly while pushing it 110%, and I previously overheated some Porterfield R4 's to where the backing plate bent around the caliper piston!

Also what are some opinions on removing the brake heat shield? Is there enough air flow to justify possibly sending damaging heat to other areas?

Thanks,
Dave A>

Corpse

Whoa, what track is that?? I've done Thunderhill twice with Porterfield R4s and never had a problem with brakes all day. THill has a nice long straight that requires heavy braking at the end of it, also...

darrona

Buttonwillow on a 106 degree day, just trying to keep up w/ 911's...

WRXRacer111

What seems popular is the modified bumper lense. IE, for those of us who cracked a lense and replaced them... take the bumper lamp, cut off the lense from the forward facing part of the lamp, then cut off the back in this area and remove the amber piece from inside. Then you attach a duct from the back of this, and run if to your brake rotors. Aim it at the center of the rotor and voila. Brake duct that is fits pretty well, it's cheap and not too hard to make.

D

Still working on mine, but here's the progress so far....







and here's one pic of the rotor blank off plate i'm still in the process of fabricating.



should be able to post some additional pics of the blank off plate this afternoon.

regards,

D

D

BTW - Heat shield???? more like dust shield. cut them off.



with minimal destruction, they can be removed quite easily.

D

madhatter

Got any advice on where to cut them? I am removing mine this week. Any info appreciated!

D

Mad:

remove caliper and rotors. then you need to remove the 3 screws that hold the dust shield onto the steering knuckle. i just used a pair of pliers to back out the screws since there is basically no room behind the hub. you can then pop the dust shield off of the steering knuckle, and can cut out a section of them with a pair of tin snips. see the pic above, it should be pretty self explanatory once you see what they look like originally.

regards,

D

madhatter

Cool. Thanks. I was considering removing the hub to get at those screws, or just hacking away at the dust shield until it was out of the way.

D

remove hub to remove that dust shield... that would suck... destroy a $50 wheel bearing just to take out 3 screws that hold on a dust shield that you'll throw in the trash.

that's kinda why my rotor blank off plates are a 2 piece design.. so it can be bolted on to the steering knuckle without removing the hub.

D

Willard

Looks good!

Dremel was very useful removing my shields. My duct-work will start this week. I need it done before VIR.

Blues will need air.

Willis

DB2-R81

If you remove the two screws that hold the rotor on to the hub and pull the rotor off. You can then get a long bladed screwdriver threw the hub screw holes and reach the screws holding the dust shied on! Or use a pair of vise grips from the side. The screws have a domed head and can easily be griped and loosened.

D

on screwdriver through hub to screws.

here's the rotor blank off plate progress as of this past weekend:

Both plates shown(inside view), with additional brackets to allow the 2 piece plate to become fill the complete annular region between the hub and ID of the inside of the hat of the rotor:


Another view, preliminary inlet shape dotted in blue for each plate:


outside view of what will be the passenger side blank off plate-nothing too special here...

maxogsr

A puch + hammer took me about 2 mins each side... No more dust sheild...only badside is that the cv boots are more exposed to heat and tend to crack easily... Make sure if you put aftermarket one to replace them with oem boots once they crack...

Under rain, you must be carefull... need to wipe the brake disk with a little hit of the brake pedal just before the real hard braking point... otherwise it can be tricky...not always but...

Stinkycheezmonky

This thread was 8 years old!!!

vtecjj

Heavy Braking?! Then you're slowing waaaaaaaay too much.

vtecjj

HOLY CRAP! I didn't notice that. When this thread started, the RSX wasn't even out yet.

Kay2

I dont know what you are doing to make Hawk's fade. Are you sure it's not your fluid? Are you on rubber lines still? Also, like mentioned above, brake shields must go.

Stinkycheezmonky

*Thud*

SPiFF

No dust shield, steel lines, 3" ducts, ATE fluid, XP16 pads. No problem.

Attached is the Road Atlanta T10a breaking zone. ~122 to 53 in 4sec.

ZUL8R

i was gonna say theta doritos bag is ancient

Dogginator

This is indeed an old thread.

cbstd

Old or not, the OP asked about cooling ducting and I have a cheap solution:

At Home Depot or similar, go to the Shop Vac section. They sell "nozzles" and hose that can be adapted to used as ports and ducting.

Scott

Conan the Destroyer

8 years later, im sure he is happy to finally see it. lol

descartesfool

This thread might be 8 years old, but I still don't know of any after-market solution that you can buy that ducts air into the center of the rotor. You think that maybe 8 years would have been long enough, nut no....