RacerBowie

This is actually pretty cool.

I needed to bleed the clutch on the "new to me" F250, so I spent the better part of an afternoon last weekend crawling around underneath it looking for a bleeder screw and generally just frustrating myself.

It turns out that the official method for bleeding the clutch is to take the top off the reservour and just pump the pedal. It works the air up out the top, and the pedal comes right up to where it should be. What a concept!

Too bad brakes don't work like that.

madhatter

Wow. That's a lot cooler than how to set the idle on a Ford 3.0 V-6.

You know how to do that?

wait for it....

you don't.
you take it to a service guy with a diagnostic tool.

There's some sort of coating on the throttle plate and body that you need a special tool to prevent scratching it. The rest is all electronic. When it gets coked up with carbon build up and won't idle anymore, you just throw the car away and go get a new one. Talk about convenient!

RacerBowie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow. That's a lot cooler than how to set the idle on a Ford 3.0 V-6.

You know how to do that?

wait for it....

you don't.
you take it to a service guy with a diagnostic tool.

There's some sort of coating on the throttle plate and body that you need a special tool to prevent scratching it. The rest is all electronic. When it gets coked up with carbon build up and won't idle anymore, you just throw the car away and go get a new one. Talk about convenient!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ugh. Note to self, never buy a Ford with the 3.0.

I fear that I am going to become one of those crotchety old men talking about the "good ol days" when you could work on your own car.

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fear that I am going to become one of those crotchety old men talking about the "good ol days" when you could work on your own car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just buy an older bike, you'll get it all out of your system - and then buy a car/truck with warranty so you dont have to worry about it.

RacerBowie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just buy an older bike, you'll get it all out of your system - and then buy a car/truck with warranty so you dont have to worry about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I get a bike I would end up griping about how hard the new breed of wheelchairs are to work on....

mstewar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It turns out that the official method for bleeding the clutch is to take the top off the reservour and just pump the pedal. It works the air up out the top, and the pedal comes right up to where it should be. What a concept!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

so how do you change the fluid? or do you just not?

LBHgti

Actually, the proper way to bleed the clutch is not to pump the pedal with the res. cap off. These systems come pre-filled and bled from Ford (if you were to buy a replacement part) as one unit including the master, hose, and slave cylinder. Thats why there are no bleeders. When replacing individual components or bleeding existing components, take the slave cylinder off the bell housing while leaving the line hooked up, and pump the slave cylinder in your hands, holding it so that the hose inlet is at the highest point (cuz air rises). This will blow all the air up through the line into the master and bubble out the reservior.