Clutch bleeding procedure..
Just confirming this is how to bleed the clutch, I do it like this and it still dosent feel just right.
1. loosen bleeder screw
2. have someone push clutch pedal to floor
3. close screw.
4. pull pedal up by hand
5. open screw
6 etc, etc, etc.
This is the right way, correct??
[Modified by siisgood00, 2:11 AM 3/1/2002]
1. loosen bleeder screw
2. have someone push clutch pedal to floor
3. close screw.
4. pull pedal up by hand
5. open screw
6 etc, etc, etc.
This is the right way, correct??
[Modified by siisgood00, 2:11 AM 3/1/2002]
A little different:
1. pump the clutch pedal
2. hold the pedal down
3. loosen bleeder screw
4. let bubbles come out
5. close screw.
6. pull pedal up by hand
7. pump the clutch pedal
8. repeat
1. pump the clutch pedal
2. hold the pedal down
3. loosen bleeder screw
4. let bubbles come out
5. close screw.
6. pull pedal up by hand
7. pump the clutch pedal
8. repeat
Sometimes when pulling up on the pedal requires a very slow motion.. alot of these hydraulic clutches can be an absolute bitch to bleed.. I always use a vacuum pump to suck the fluid from the bleeder while keeping an eye on the clutch resovoir to make sure the fluid level is topped off...
yep your right so bleed away. its the same as break bleeding.
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It would prolly bleed out manually without the aid of a handheld vacuum pump($35 at yer local parts store) I just prefer to use the pump to save time..Your correct , clutch bleeding differs slightly from brake bleeding.. don't pump the clutch pedal,depress it once then open the bleeder screw, tighten bleeder, manually lift the clutch pedal up by hand very slowly and repeat.. keep an eye on the fluid level..
I find that using my finger (bleeder screw removed) instead of the bleeder screw works quickly to get the fluid to the slave- then use the bleeder screw. Obviously you'll need a partner. Hold finger over hole- push pedal down- lift finger- put finger over hole- pull pedal up- repeat until you have good fluid flow- then replace the bleeder and repeat until no air bubbles come out and sponginess is gone. You don't have to get a vacuum bleeder- the handheld ones are a PITA.
[Modified by fixhondas, 9:46 PM 3/1/2002]
[Modified by fixhondas, 9:46 PM 3/1/2002]
Well fixhondas, from reading your last post I dont know if your mentioning clutch bleeding procedures or some kinda new sexual technique!.. maybe its just me..
yes... it will remove the air from the master and insure the best vacuum/pressure when the rest of the system is being flushed.
Will
-who had to bench bleed Volvo/Yugo parts before...
Will
-who had to bench bleed Volvo/Yugo parts before...
its not necessary- I don't- but it may be a good idea- you'll just have to fool around with the reservoir being attached when your trying to install the hard line
"bench bleed" the master cylinder ON the car. Then attach the hard lines. This way less air gets into the MC from trying to mount it without spilling brake fluid.
Ok time to bring this one back from the dead, just got back from vacation...
I dont bench bleed the system, I just use a few paper towels to sop up all the fluid from the resivour, then fill with fresh fluid, and start the bleeding procedure to get the rest of the crap fluid out from the bottom of the resiviour.
I dont bench bleed the system, I just use a few paper towels to sop up all the fluid from the resivour, then fill with fresh fluid, and start the bleeding procedure to get the rest of the crap fluid out from the bottom of the resiviour.
it took forever to bleed my clutch when i replaced mine. did it take yall forever to do it?
i almost went through a whole bottle of brake fluid and it was still kinda soft. i gave up after a while. i told myself " maybe it will get harder as i drvie it daily". sure enough.........thats wat happened.
i almost went through a whole bottle of brake fluid and it was still kinda soft. i gave up after a while. i told myself " maybe it will get harder as i drvie it daily". sure enough.........thats wat happened.
it takes about 20-25 "cycles" to get the clutch bleed. This also assumes you don't run the resivor dry. I try to use 3 people when bleeding the clutch. One to pump, one to fill, and one (Me!) to do the bleeding.
it takes about 20-25 "cycles" to get the clutch bleed. This also assumes you don't run the resivor dry. I try to use 3 people when bleeding the clutch. One to pump, one to fill, and one (Me!) to do the bleeding.
It seems like the pedal is the most important part because of needing to pull it up so slow.
A little different:
1. pump the clutch pedal...slowly
2. hold the pedal down
3. loosen bleeder screw
4. let bubbles come out
5. close screw.
6. pull pedal up by hand
7. pump the clutch pedal
8. repeat
1. pump the clutch pedal...slowly
2. hold the pedal down
3. loosen bleeder screw
4. let bubbles come out
5. close screw.
6. pull pedal up by hand
7. pump the clutch pedal
8. repeat
This technic works better then tradition tube in fuild. However sometimes the steps above don't work at first because their might be a lot of oxygen in the lines, then you will need to remove the bleeder screw and have someone pump pedal w/ your thumb over the hole.
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