bboysake

Hey guys so Im in the process of painting my engine bay for my wire tuck and was wondering what size tip I need for my gun? Or does it really matter? Specs input?

or if that's too hard to answer, what is a good paint gun that I can order offline? Any input would help! Thanks!

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

paint gun brands, really depend on how much you want to spend. you can get a cheap paint gun that will suffice for your engine bay and probably for your car. If you plan on doing alot of painting a quality gun will pay for itself. I use only satajet in the shop, its the most comfortable paint gun, lightweight,and its spray quality are awesome. but they cost 600+. if your not going to be painting everyday in a paint shop setting you dont really need to spend that kind of money. A 150 dollar sharpe/finex or devilbiss starting line paint gun will work. hell a 40 dollar harbor freight paint gun will work for your engine bay.

when it comes to fluid tips and needles you want to swap them out for what material your using.

1.3-1.4= clearcoat, basecoat. sealer (I preffer 1.3)
1.6-1.8= primers
1.8-2.0= sprayable coatings or gelcoats (thick stuff).

bboysake

Great information bro. Yeah I'm just using a paint gun for my engine bay, thats pretty much it. So.....I just need to get the tips for the gun right? And they are interchangeable on the same gun?

DC2.2_GSR

great info. i use a SATA 3000 digital with a WSB tip for our water basecoat. I'm absolutely in love with my Iwata LPH 400 for clear. it's extremely light, has a perfect design for my hand, and lays clear soooooo smooth. i've found that it atomizes the PPG clear far better than the SATA does.

bboy - if you get a cheap harbor freight style HVLP gun, it will usually come with a 1.3 or a 1.4 and a 2.0+ tip. definitely use the smaller of the two for both base and clear. i've used a cheap POS gun in a pinch before and i can still get nice results with the $15 gun. if you're not color blending or trying to do custom show quality work, the cheap gun will work fine. just pay attention to your air pressure and make sure to be delicate with the clear. sometimes the cheap guns have internals that make the guns spray like they have larger tips on them, and the excess material being transferred to the panel can easily bite you in the ***. you'll get runs quick if you're not careful. just be sure to try a test panel first.

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

well any gun you buy will most likely come with a completely sprayable ready to use gun. If it comes with a 1.3 tip than you are good for sealer, base and clear and dont need another tip. . With the cheaper spray guns they dont normally sell seperate tips and needles cause theyd rather just sell another paint gun for a few bucks more. With the more expensive stuff, satajet, devilbiss,anest iwata, youll be able to buy seperate fluid tip sets that go for $150 +.. Not all of them are interchangeable. Different thread designs for the fluid tips and caps, different gun design and needle length will all determine that. With the more expensive stuff like sata jet they have series of spray guns. For example my main spray gun is a sata jet nr2k. I can use pretty much any fluidtip/needle set that is made for an nr2k no matter the size. I cant use the needle and fluid tip from a satajet nr3k because of different cap design/thread count etc. Im sure your getting the picture.


yea I love the nr3k as well, Im not sure if its me or not but its seems a couple ounces lighter than my 2k, but I still love my nr2. ive sprayed the iwata's before and didnt mind them at all,im not sure if I didnt have the settings right or what, but after hours of messing with it I just couldnt get this thing to stop SCARFING material up, I thought it was just me so I had someone else mess with it, maybe the actual gun was messed up cause it was just reaming through clear. and totally right on the cheap guns. If you can dial them in you can get great results from them, but they are very tempermental, theyll spray fine one minute and the next there just throwing out globs of stuff not even atomozing the material. The harbor freight guns are great for primer though.

bboysake

Thanks guys for the info and input. I will definitely just get a cheap one since I will be only using it for the bay. I'm also needing to primer the bay, should I use the 2mm or whats the minimal size recommended for primer?

filthy94

i have a pro-teck 4000 its EXACTLY like the iwata lph400. i got it for $150 bucks. it lays paint pretty good. it also uses alot of clear just like the iwata. ive used them both. i also use a 1.3 and a 1.4 tip for base/clear/ sealer. ive recently started using a 2.5 tip for primer like featherfill.

bboysake

the bigger the tip the better for primer? Or why do exactly people go larger for stuff like primer?

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

primer is a filler, its thick, its used to fill scratches, pinholes on bodywork and repair spots. You use a larger fluid tip to accomodate the thickness of the primer. You dont want to be spraying primer out of a 1.3 tip cause it funnels the primer down to too small of an outlet therefore making it spray in smaller more finer amounts and can make it lay dry.. You want primer to come out of a larger tip so it can do what its supposed to do. and that is to FILL and seal bodywork and panels.

brian8702

hey just putting out there
ATD sells a gun get that includes a paint gun, primer gun and also a touch up gun whic would do a amazing jjob for doing your engine bay. sells for like $100 at the paint store and sells for like $70 on ebay,.
i've used them before and they work great for the price

bboysake

sweet perfect info Impatient. That's the answer I was looking for. Thanks


Thanks Brian I'll check it out!

Wheels 2

I use devilbiss plus gun with 1.4mm tip.

civic addict

go iwata w4oo with 1.4 tip i've used iwata for about 10 years there not cheap but not to expensive,a real work horse will last for ages.