~Collection of what i have Painted with Rust-o-leum Paint~
12-06-2008, 11:56 AM
#204
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since you are "givin lovin" to all these cars-
what about that nice schwinn (traveler is it?) that looks to be a great canidate for a fixed gear/single speed conversion!
although this picture is a track frame- you could set that one up just like this-
they are really fun to ride around! you should convert it!
although this is a track frame- you can make that road bike have a fixed gear which is what they have-
12-09-2008, 07:29 PM
#207
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I had a question about the molding (mid-door) i see in all the cars that you painted you removed them. Is there an easy way to take them off? Thanks alot i'll post my pics them finished next week
12-11-2008, 11:03 AM
#210
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depends on the ugliness of the surface i sand with like 800-2000grit and buff it with rubbing compound like 3 rounds and it still shines til now..(its only my 1/4 panel i did) i also did the buffing by hand -.-
12-11-2008, 11:57 AM
#211
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Im going to be doing the Rustoleum paint job on my eh2 here soon. Im stick between white, red, or sunburst yellow right now.
I wanted to ask you a few ?
1st off for the last coat you sand 1500-2000. What do you buff the car with? And then do you wax afterwards?
2nd if I were to use some clear would it be applied after the final buffing or before it?
OFf Topic...Have you used the sunburst yellow? Im not sure how it would look on a hatch? In your oppinion what color would be best on a 92 hatch? Snburst yellow, Regal red, gloss white, or another rustoleum color?
I wanted to ask you a few ?
1st off for the last coat you sand 1500-2000. What do you buff the car with? And then do you wax afterwards?
2nd if I were to use some clear would it be applied after the final buffing or before it?
OFf Topic...Have you used the sunburst yellow? Im not sure how it would look on a hatch? In your oppinion what color would be best on a 92 hatch? Snburst yellow, Regal red, gloss white, or another rustoleum color?
12-11-2008, 12:52 PM
#212
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i think white is too common. i dont know how regal red and sunburst yellow looks like. something different would be nice.
if you did sanding in between coats as suppose too, then last coat you sand with 1000-2000grits and buff. i just some cheap compound from OSH and i did no wax at all. i hear that if you use real paint on rustoleum, the aint would react..but i dont know if clear would react..i would likely clear before buff.
if you did sanding in between coats as suppose too, then last coat you sand with 1000-2000grits and buff. i just some cheap compound from OSH and i did no wax at all. i hear that if you use real paint on rustoleum, the aint would react..but i dont know if clear would react..i would likely clear before buff.
12-11-2008, 03:23 PM
#213
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I think white looks the best. white is the most common but i cant wait to paint my hatch white. If i dont go white it will be gloss or flat black. just figured id put that out there.
$50 paint job FTMFW!!!!
$50 paint job FTMFW!!!!
12-11-2008, 07:04 PM
#214
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ive done white and black..and the white..its like white of all whites haha...the rusto white reallly stands out more than any white ive seen..the black if done right is super dope..maybe ill roll on some black/white on some spare panels and give it a bit buffin and see what those colors could come out to look like.
12-16-2008, 09:45 AM
#217
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hey i plan on doing this in the near future. could you possibly give m a quick step by step. i plan on using rustoleum but could you let me know what kind i should use. and how many coats of each, like primer, base color, clear coat. and also if its not a hassle could you let me kno how long overall it took to complete one car?
12-16-2008, 01:39 PM
#218
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this is quoted from gourley's thread. when i rolled my car i would say 3 days of painting not including bodywork. start at 9am, 1st coat. @ 1pm sand/2nd coat. @ 5pm sand/3rd coat. let it sit over night. same procedure for the next day so you'll be at 6 coats. 3rd day is i guess letting it dry up and assemble **** back together?
there is no clear coat involved. i only used primer over areas that are bondo'd and areas that i sanded too far.
The basic guid lines are as followed:
Prep:
1: Sand the whole car down with 80 Grit sand paper to remove paint (Donot sand down to the metal, only to the factory primer)
2: Resand with 320grit to smooth out all the gashes that the 80grit left behind
3: Fix any dents or body work that is needed, (if your applying bondo, sand the area around the dent all the way to the metal and then apply the bondo)
Painting:
1: Use a rattle can primer to go over any area's where you might of sanded down to the metal
2: Primer over the bondo
3: Wipe the WHOLE car down with Mineral Spirits and clean any dust/dirt/oil on the paint
4: Re-wipe the car down with a lint-free towel to remove any last dust/dirt/oil.
5: Mix up the Mineral Spirits and Paint accordingly to the humidity and temperature (I'm in 55* weather and 30-50% Humidity and I'm Mixing my mixture 60% paint 40% mineral spirits)
6: Dip your whole roller in the paint and roll most of the paint off the roller in the paint holder
7: Apply VERY thin coats of paint, trying not to overlap. (if you see bubbles you either mixed you paint wrong or your apply too much)
Drying/Waiting:
1: After you have laid your first coat down, depending on the weather, you should wait about 2-3 Hours before touching, and about 4 Hours before applying the second coat.
2: Wet sand after every two coats with 800Grit sandpaper to smooth out any air bubbles or orange peel.
Follow thies guidelines and you will have a 50$ paint job.
The routine im using is as followed:
Sand with 80
Resand with 320
Bondo/bodywork
Wipedown with mineral spirits
First Coat
Second Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Third Coat
Fourth Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Fifth Coat
Sixth Coat
Wetsand with 1000Grit
Wetsand with 2000Grit
Cut/Polish/Wax
there is no clear coat involved. i only used primer over areas that are bondo'd and areas that i sanded too far.
The basic guid lines are as followed:
Prep:
1: Sand the whole car down with 80 Grit sand paper to remove paint (Donot sand down to the metal, only to the factory primer)
2: Resand with 320grit to smooth out all the gashes that the 80grit left behind
3: Fix any dents or body work that is needed, (if your applying bondo, sand the area around the dent all the way to the metal and then apply the bondo)
Painting:
1: Use a rattle can primer to go over any area's where you might of sanded down to the metal
2: Primer over the bondo
3: Wipe the WHOLE car down with Mineral Spirits and clean any dust/dirt/oil on the paint
4: Re-wipe the car down with a lint-free towel to remove any last dust/dirt/oil.
5: Mix up the Mineral Spirits and Paint accordingly to the humidity and temperature (I'm in 55* weather and 30-50% Humidity and I'm Mixing my mixture 60% paint 40% mineral spirits)
6: Dip your whole roller in the paint and roll most of the paint off the roller in the paint holder
7: Apply VERY thin coats of paint, trying not to overlap. (if you see bubbles you either mixed you paint wrong or your apply too much)
Drying/Waiting:
1: After you have laid your first coat down, depending on the weather, you should wait about 2-3 Hours before touching, and about 4 Hours before applying the second coat.
2: Wet sand after every two coats with 800Grit sandpaper to smooth out any air bubbles or orange peel.
Follow thies guidelines and you will have a 50$ paint job.
The routine im using is as followed:
Sand with 80
Resand with 320
Bondo/bodywork
Wipedown with mineral spirits
First Coat
Second Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Third Coat
Fourth Coat
Wetsand with 800Grit
Fifth Coat
Sixth Coat
Wetsand with 1000Grit
Wetsand with 2000Grit
Cut/Polish/Wax
12-17-2008, 02:18 PM
#219
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I got a question :
It seems like the car I'm about to paint was painted blue over the old paint job which was black and they didn't even sand it down to the primer and now it is flaking while I'm sanding it. So its basically a primer I cant see yet and 2 paintjobs. The paint job on the car is strong but there it some areas with bubbles.
Any suggestions on what I should do?
Should I sand down the whole area to an even level? or Will I have to sand down the whole car to the primer?
It seems like the car I'm about to paint was painted blue over the old paint job which was black and they didn't even sand it down to the primer and now it is flaking while I'm sanding it. So its basically a primer I cant see yet and 2 paintjobs. The paint job on the car is strong but there it some areas with bubbles.
Any suggestions on what I should do?
Should I sand down the whole area to an even level? or Will I have to sand down the whole car to the primer?
12-18-2008, 12:18 AM
#220
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
tsunamihair: i'd perfer to sand that area down to even surface. better yet sand down to the 1st primer. a painter told me that if you want a paintjob to look real nice done paint over paint. sand down to 1st primer and work from there.
solbrothers: any pix of his sol?
solbrothers: any pix of his sol?
