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I have a 1997 Honda Civic CX with a d15b2 block and a d16y7 head. This weekend I swapped in a built d16z6 engine. I purchased a rywire jumper harness for the Ecu as well as for the dizzy. Running a d16y8 automatic intake manifold with a stock fuel rail that is modified to accept the 2 wire Iacv. The Iacv has been deppined to accept the 2 wire Iacv plug. Also running a chipped p28 Ecu. I have an upgraded brand new fuel pump and brand new rc 750cc injectors. Stock plugs that are gapped correctly. Plugs are wet when I pull them. They are also getting a spark when I ground them out. Timing is spot on ( pictures attached). Dizzy is all the way pushed back. 3 grounds are attached: 1 from valve cover to headlight bracket area. 1 from the side of the engine bay to the transmission. 1 from the wiring harness to the thermostat.
The car cranks but won't start.
Do I still need to repin the ECU even though I have a jumper harness?
What else should I test? This is my daily driver and I need it running ASAP. Do I need to hook up vtec for the car to run? That is the one thing I left untied because I didn't have time.
This may be a dumb question but I thought the jumper harness eliminated the need to repin the wires coming from the wiring harness. I have searched many forums and websites double checking my work and the only thing I am unsure about is the ECU
D16Z6
D16Z6
D16Y7
D16Y7
Last edited by russell2u; 03-31-2015 at 04:39 PM.
Reason: Adding pics
Your distributor might be 180 degrees out? And the whole point of a jumper harness is so that you don't have to repin the ecu.
So I should flip it upside down?
And that's what I thought. I don't have vtec stock though and I have to wire it directly to the new Ecu. Do I have to wire it in for the car to run or can I run without it?
Thanks for the response and reading my post, I appreciate it.
What you have to do is take the distributor cap off, unbolt the distributor, turn the rotor 180 degrees (I just replaced my distributor not even a week ago, having the cap off helps to line the distributor keys with the notches in the cam) the distributor keys are slightly offset, as are the notches in the cam, it's very slight, but it's enough to tell, bolt the distributor up again (loose enough so you can still time it) put the cap back on along with the plug wires and start her up! That worked for me, so hopefully it'll be the same thing for you.
And yes it will run without the VTEC wire being hooked up, it might throw a CEL but that's about it, it's just a simple solenoid, nothing critical to the engine starting up or running.
What you have to do is take the distributor cap off, unbolt the distributor, turn the rotor 180 degrees (I just replaced my distributor not even a week ago, having the cap off helps to line the distributor keys with the notches in the cam) the distributor keys are slightly offset, as are the notches in the cam, it's very slight, but it's enough to tell, bolt the distributor up again (loose enough so you can still time it) put the cap back on along with the plug wires and start her up! That worked for me, so hopefully it'll be the same thing for you.
And yes it will run without the VTEC wire being hooked up, it might throw a CEL but that's about it, it's just a simple solenoid, nothing critical to the engine starting up or running.
And no problem man!
I tried that and it looks like the rotor is not made to turn at all. It is a brand new distributor I purchased from a Honda dealer. I also tried my old distributor from the d16y7 and got the same exact results.
Is there anything else I should check? The engine has literally only 3,000 miles on it and it's in pristine condition internally so I'm not as much worried about that as I am about other things like wiring. Is it possible to test my ECU? It's supposedly "chipped" for this engine/injector setup but I am unsure exactly what it is doing. Should I have done any wiring at all besides changing the IACV? Because I did not.
What kind of "chip" is for 750ccinjextors and why do you need such large ones? What codes are you throwing?
I am about to check the codes.
In regards to the injectors they came with the engine along with the Ecu. The engine was meant to be turbo'd. It has an oil return line in the oil pan. If the ECU is tuned for an engine with a turbo and the turbo is no longer on there will it cause these symptoms that I am having? Should I have the ECU retuned?
Have you messed with the mechanical timing at all? Put the crank on TDC and verify the position of the cam position and make sure the dist. rotor is pointed to fire to cyl #1. And then make sure your firing order is correct. 1-3-4-2
Have you messed with the mechanical timing at all? Put the crank on TDC and verify the position of the cam position and make sure the dist. rotor is pointed to fire to cyl #1. And then make sure your firing order is correct. 1-3-4-2
I am currently having the custom ECU reflashed to run stock 240 cc injectors. The tune shop I am using claims my car will not run at all with 750 cc injectors. It is also tuned to run a turbo. They are putting a base map on telling me to run my stock injectors. They said it should run then.
After getting The ECU back and putting in 240 cc injectors the car started. It is blowing a LOT of white smoke though and idling extremely high. It also freely revs in neutral but dies after I put it in gear and try to drive it.
03-30-2015, 09:45 AM
D16Z6 Swap Help Needed
