Jmen128

Chassis - 2000 Civic Coupe Ex
Motor - B18b1 block, B18a1 head, p75 intake out of a 92
Dizzy - OBD1 dizzy with the two pigtails and a jumper harness.
EWH - stock d16y8 harness with an extended pig tail for CKF by the crank pulley. (only modification done)
ECU - P75-a04 with a jumper harness

To start, I blew the d16y8 in my civic shortly after putting it in and decided I was gonna B swap it, as that was the goal when I got the car. I got sold a shitty B18a1 out of a 92 integra that was advertised as a b1 out of a 97 (should’ve looked more carefully I know). Needless to say, I tore it apart and rebuilt it, eventually replacing the whole block with a bare B1 block from a 96, when I found a bad lip on the deck. I replaced original oil pump with OBD2 pump to account for CKF sensor, and had to extend my EWH to reach it. (Also converted the pigtail to a two pin connector) After a few months or so of putting the motor together, I finally dropped it in the car. I turned it over before adding coolant or anything, just to ensure it would start and that my garage rebuild was done properly, and sure enough it fired right up. I cut it off pretty quick as I hadn’t gotten an exhaust yet and hadn’t put coolant in it, so far so good. Few days go by and I get all my coolant hoses, fill it up, and I’m ready to start it up for real. All of a sudden I’m not getting any spark. Plugs and coil wires are brand new so I chalk it up to the dizzy taking an ill timed ****. We got a scrap 2000 CRV at my shop so I yank the distributor off of it and put it on my motor, seeing as it’s OBD2B and I could eliminate the jumper harness I’d been using. I go to start it again and it still won’t crank, I’m getting spark now but no fuel. Instead of figuring out the fuel issue, I just sprayed some starting fluid in it in hopes it would crank and wake everything up. It did crank and ran for a couple seconds before dying out and leaving me with a check engine light. It threw two codes at me, the p1337 code (Scanner reads: CKP Sensor 2 Circuit) and the p1298 (ELD High Input). At first I figured it had something to do with my pigtail extension so I went back over it to ensure it was wired properly and had continuity from the connector to rest of the harness. Everything checked out, so my next thought was I just got a defective sensor out the box. I went back to the 2000 CRV and grabbed to sensor from it as I knew it worked, put everything back together, and got the same codes. So I went to alldata and followed the p1337 troubleshooting for both a 2000 Civic Ex AND a 97 Integra LS (it’s the exact same I just wanted to be safe) and all signs pointed to a bad ECM. At this point I had a junkyard P75-A03 that hadn’t been tested, so I figured getting a new, known to be good, ECU would fix my problem. I grabbed a P75-A04 off eBay that had been tested, plugged it up, and wouldn’t you know it, I got the same codes. I was pretty confused at this point and the only issue I could think of was that the cheap jumper harness I got for my ECU was just bad, but after checking the pinouts everything matched up. I still wanted to eliminate the jumper harness as a problem so I went BACK to the CRV AGAIN to grab it’s OBD2B ECU. I still hadn’t fixed the fuel issue so I was starting it up using starter fluid. I plugged it up, turned it over, and it’s the exact same problem. Car runs for a second or two, dies, and leaves me with a p1337 code. This was last week, and since then I’ve removed the EWH and stripped it down completely to check for a possible open or short in the CKF wiring, to no avail. I’ve reinstalled the harness now and just today I’ve started replacing fuel components, injectors and filter specifically, hoping to get it running long enough to properly diagnose it. I spoke with my old boss who’s like the Obiwan of Hondas a few days ago and he suggested I start by going back to the OBD1 dizzy and hoping it’s the cause of all of this. This is my first swap and I picked it because, based off my research, it’s about as plug and play as a b swap gets. I by no means expected it to be perfect first try, and I allotted myself time and money for the hiccups I knew I’d face, but I’d be lying if I said this hasn’t been kicking my *** the past month or so.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

#1) would be tackle the CKF sensor issue. When installing the oil pump, you made sure everything was from the obd2 ( you need the ring gear with teeth and the sensor ) .

if you have all the parts, then I would trouble shoot the wiring . (obd2 ecus wont run without this working )

#2 ) Regarding ELD, I always encounter this issue when swapping EK's, their ECU/Harness dont have the 4th wire on the alternator.

pin C2 in obd2b harness) ( or Pin A19 in obd2a harness

Jmen128

So I’ve made a bit of progress, I’ll explain all I’ve done so far. I went through the oil pump and CKF sensor again and everything checked out perfectly so I begrudgingly did the CKF bypass where you quick splice at the ECU connector. CKF code disappeared and was finally able to crank and idle on it own with no starting fluid, although I still have the ELD code. I went through the alldata flowchart and determined it was a bad ELD, so I replaced it to no avail, but I didn’t know anything about the harness missing a wire so I’ll check on that in a minute. (EDIT: just checked my harness and it does have all four wires in the alternator plug as well as the wire on ECU connector C2) As of this morning I replaced the fuel pump and sock cause it will drive around but starts breaking up real bad around 2000-2500 rpm’s. I honestly hoped it was just a bad pump or clogged sock, but after replacing both, it still presents the same issue. Do you think this breakup is being caused by the ELD?
NOTE: the breakup was happening before the bypass

Jmen128

I’ve fixed the ELD code, my jumper harness was pinned wrong. Still breaking up

Jmen128

So I’ve done about everything except check my fuel pressure, which I plan on doing this week once I get the kit. And so far everything checks out. I’ve had a few sets of eyes and hands on it and most people said to check timing on it, which of course checked out perfectly. Seems like it’s either ignition or fuel, and I’m leaning towards fuel for the sole reason that I’ve tried multiple distributors and encountered the same problem. Any kind of help is appreciated, and I can provide pictures and videos of anything that may be relevant to my issue. I had one guy tell me to start with a Hondata s300 and go from there, but I can’t see how STARTING with a $1000 ECU will do anything my drain my pockets more. I’m not trying to build a race car, just an A to B daily that gives me options for the future.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

So what codes do you have now ?, I hate to admit, running a modified obd1 ecu ( be it S300 , snake emu , cobra rtp , crome, ectune , HTS on the mentioned hardware) , is a great way to do it . You gain a lot of control over the ecu .

Jmen128

Right now it’s not throwing any codes except for an O2 code because I unplugged the downstream when I was trying to test drive for the first time (exhaust was hanging and didn’t wanna cause any damage while driving) but luckily I came across an s300 in good condition from a guy that I trust and it should be here today. The guy that originally told me to go this route is gonna be helping me get it setup so we can try to pinpoint the issue together. I’ll probably post an update sometime this week depending on if we figure anything out. I appreciate everyone’s help so far!