tamadrumr88

Any suggestions not already addressed are greatly appreciated

I've already removed the lower half of the exhaust manifold, support brace/bellhousing cover, and (as far as I can tell) all of the oil pan nuts/bolts

The "ear" on the driver side rear corner of the block doesn't appear to be offering much leverage to try and pry the oil pan off. What's wrong here? It seems like the oil pan is cemented to the block. Could the temp (~40*) have anything to do with the Hondabond on the oil pan?

Any other leverage points or creative ways of pulling the oil pan?

Thanks in advance

1grex

dead blow hammer aka rubber mallet

tamadrumr88

already tried... doesn't seem to budge

tamadrumr88

can anyone verify for me how many nuts/bolts are on the oil pan? I know there are two nuts that are used at the middle of the pan on opposite sides. I don't remember how many bolts I removed though, I suppose it's possible I left one on... just need to know for sure how many there are

TheJGB3

Yes this is what i used on mine. I had to beat on it for a awhile, like 30 minutes (and this was in July).....just hit it where the #55 is in this parts exploded view picture.

Don Jefe

Having the same prob in my SH haven't tried the mallet yet, just a reg hammer and a block of wood lol. Do you think if you took a heat gun to the hondabond that it might make it more pliable?

Good luck

Rice Petrol

No, honda bond isnt easily affected by heat, Molecular structure wont start to vary until around 610*F. Couple ideas firstly did you guys remember to remove the flywheel viewport? I know obvious but it is always a possibility. Other than that it really is a matter of getting the crap to submit try rotating blows around all sides of the pan. You really dont have to be to gentle our pans can take a real blow a couple medium strength blows should do it. If not get a metal 4 inch putty knife and really carefully get it in between the block and pan. Slightly pull down on the knifes handle while hitting the pan on the same side with the hammer. Keep working the bond and take your time it will eventually give out.

teggyman267

they have RTV silicone on there get a screw diver wedge it between the pan and block and put some muscle into it.sould pop off

bluedlude

easiest way to do that i learned from a guy on here. removethe engine support that goes between the tranny housing and the block. grab two pieces of wood or metal stock that you have laying around that are the same thickness. take the engine stiffener that you removed and thread the bolt that secures it to the pan about 1/4 way in. insert the two shim pieces between where the engine stiffener and block mate up. now continue to thread in that bolt securing the stiffener to the oil pan, the pan will pop right off or at least separate to a point where you can work with it.

bluedlude

The red marks indicate where you need to place the shims. The blue line shows which bolt I am talking about partially then fully threading in. hope this helps

tamadrumr88

awesome! I'll have to try that tomorrow

lude98SH

On the oil pump side of the pan there is a lip u can pry on, that is where i usually pry from when removing the pan.

Raspinudo

You have to remove that bracket and all the bolts around the pan. Then it will just take persistence with the mallet to knock it loose. You may try threading a bolt with a washer in and pry with a wonder bar.

tamadrumr88

That "shim" trick worked. Oil pan came off on the first try. Thanks for the tip!

Already explained that that didn't work

Also explained that that didn't work

bluedlude

yeah, its by far the easiest way to do it. If you know how to apply it, no amount of banging or prying will break loose honda bond. make sure you prep the surfaces of the pan and block really well before you put the pan back on. spend a little extra time doing that an you won't have to worry about a leak in the near future.