crj_lll

I just got my slave and master cylinder for 1992 Honda Prelude SI 4ws H22 A4. I have done some research, read the helms manual (which was no real help, LOL) and asked my friendly neighborhood Honda Tech at the dealership. Basically I now know removing the cotter pin from the clutch master cylinder in the driver compartment is a B*TCH to say the least. What I am wondering is does anyone, who has done this before, have any tricks of the trade or tips when doing this replacement? Anything constructive will help.

Thanks

95greenlude

small hands? Honestly its a remove - replace job.

You have a PM

92hondalude

dont remove the pin. Loosen the nut on the shaft and unscrew the shaft out of the pedal. Loosen the hydraulic line before unbolting the master cylinder. If you have a wobble extention that will help when removing the nuts on the master cylinder.

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

I did it by myself, a couple years ago.. My first time doing it and had no troubles..
It's pretty simple.

Don't know of any tricks to tell you, or at least, don't remember anything.. Heh

crj_lll

That is exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks

MikeLuder

I just did this job last week for the second time, I thought it sucked. It's a real pain if you remove that pin & spring on the pedal.. but I couldn't figure out any other way.

Also, make sure to get a quality master cylinder.. like Beck Arnely or OEM

and bleeding it is pump pump hold down, open valve screw.. squirt, close screw, pull pedal back slowly. repeat. takes about 20-30 minutes to bleed if doing it properly.

95greenlude

^that is not how helms bleeds the master.....

MikeLuder

Yeah, I know. I tried it that way too. but after talking to some mechanics and reading the directions that came with the master cylinder, It says to pump it up with the valve closed and then hold it down, open the valve, let it bleed and close it, and than pull back slowly.


the helms says to open the valve, push pedal down, bleed, close valve, and pull back.


I did a mix of both ways and finally got mine to work.


I just did this TWICE, because the first cylinder I bought went bad because it was cheap, like 40 bucks at Advance. So I bought the Beck Arnely part that is supposed to be OEM quality(80$) and it worked much better.

And just for the record the HONDA OEM clutch cylinder is only 84$ so I would go with that if you can wait.

crj_lll

I have an OEM one and slave form Majestic

MikeLuder

definitely. good choice man, you don't want to have to replace that thing two years later because you got the cheap one. i've been there.. it sucks.

crj_lll

I try to stick with OEM unless it is a performance upgrade. If you value your lude like everyone wants to say they do, then do not be penny wise and dollar foolish. That is not directed to anyone in particular, just my view.

95greenlude

nope...not what it says.



Basically you open up the valve with a hose attached to it. Dip the end of the hose in some extra fluid so you cant suck up air....Just pump the clutch until you see no more air and close the bleeder screw. pump the clutch a couple of more times and it should have pressure

TruNinja619

+1 on the helms way.

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

The only problem I found with that way, as I tried it... When you pull the pedal up, since there is air in the Line off the Slave, it just sucks that in.. And it just goes back and forth, in and out... But I had a brand new line that was full of air also... So I had to pump it down, close the valve, bring it up, open valve, and repeat..

MikeLuder

That is correct, sorry my CHILTONS Manual says it the way I listed.

The method the Helms says seems like it would work but I worry about getting air in the line pumping with it open. I spose if it was submerged in enough fluid it would be okay.


But like I said, I didn't find the chiltons method to be that effective either.. after trying it twice.

When your doing the whole Line, its a pain no matter what especially by yourself.


-->> *My Pops mentioned 'pre-bleeding' the master cylinder before installing it? He said your spose to do it on all master cylinders (brakes too) so fluid gets on the seal inside and air gets out before you put it in? anybody ever heard of this.. ?

so I just pushed on the rod, and pulled back slowly while pouring fluid in the line whole to fill it up before I put it in. Since the line is on top none of it leaks out during the install.

dtapia

i use a vacula or my power bleeder to bleed the clutch system.

crj_lll

Ok, new problem with this repair. I have gotten everything off and put the new one in. I have attached everything, except the upper nut to the left hand side. This is the one that is the hardest to reach form inside the cabin. How do you all get the nut on? I have big thick hands. I may just need to pay some kid $5 to use his small hands. LOL

Any help would be appreciated.

92hondalude, it worked like a charm. Less than 5 minutes form disconnected to connected. Thanks alot

crj_lll

Bump

crj_lll

The chick to getting the upper bolt on is to get a tiny woman with tiny hands and terach her where to put it. LOL

I guess they are good for something. LOL