Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
I just got my slave and master cylinder for 1992 Honda Prelude SI 4ws H22 A4. I have done some research, read the helms manual (which was no real help, LOL) and asked my friendly neighborhood Honda Tech at the dealership. Basically I now know removing the cotter pin from the clutch master cylinder in the driver compartment is a B*TCH to say the least. What I am wondering is does anyone, who has done this before, have any tricks of the trade or tips when doing this replacement? Anything constructive will help.
Thanks |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
small hands? Honestly its a remove - replace job.
You have a PM |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
dont remove the pin. Loosen the nut on the shaft and unscrew the shaft out of the pedal. Loosen the hydraulic line before unbolting the master cylinder. If you have a wobble extention that will help when removing the nuts on the master cylinder.
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
I did it by myself, a couple years ago.. My first time doing it and had no troubles..
It's pretty simple. Don't know of any tricks to tell you, or at least, don't remember anything.. Heh |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Originally Posted by 92hondalude
(Post 38045370)
don't remove the pin. Loosen the nut on the shaft and unscrew the shaft out of the pedal. Loosen the hydraulic line before unbolting the master cylinder. If you have a wobble extension that will help when removing the nuts on the master cylinder.
Thanks |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
I just did this job last week for the second time, I thought it sucked. It's a real pain if you remove that pin & spring on the pedal.. but I couldn't figure out any other way.
Also, make sure to get a quality master cylinder.. like Beck Arnely or OEM and bleeding it is pump pump hold down, open valve screw.. squirt, close screw, pull pedal back slowly. repeat. takes about 20-30 minutes to bleed if doing it properly. |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
^that is not how helms bleeds the master.....
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Originally Posted by 95greenlude
(Post 38055556)
^that is not how helms bleeds the master.....
Yeah, I know. I tried it that way too. but after talking to some mechanics and reading the directions that came with the master cylinder, It says to pump it up with the valve closed and then hold it down, open the valve, let it bleed and close it, and than pull back slowly. the helms says to open the valve, push pedal down, bleed, close valve, and pull back. I did a mix of both ways and finally got mine to work. I just did this TWICE, because the first cylinder I bought went bad because it was cheap, like 40 bucks at Advance. So I bought the Beck Arnely part that is supposed to be OEM quality(80$) and it worked much better. And just for the record the HONDA OEM clutch cylinder is only 84$ so I would go with that if you can wait. |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
I have an OEM one and slave form Majestic
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Originally Posted by crj_lll
(Post 38067414)
I have an OEM one and slave form Majestic
definitely. good choice man, you don't want to have to replace that thing two years later because you got the cheap one. i've been there.. it sucks. |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
I try to stick with OEM unless it is a performance upgrade. If you value your lude like everyone wants to say they do, then do not be penny wise and dollar foolish. That is not directed to anyone in particular, just my view.
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Originally Posted by MikeLuder
(Post 38058832)
the helms says to open the valve, push pedal down, bleed, close valve, and pull back.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...leedclutch.jpg Basically you open up the valve with a hose attached to it. Dip the end of the hose in some extra fluid so you cant suck up air....Just pump the clutch until you see no more air and close the bleeder screw. pump the clutch a couple of more times and it should have pressure |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
+1 on the helms way.
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
The only problem I found with that way, as I tried it... When you pull the pedal up, since there is air in the Line off the Slave, it just sucks that in.. And it just goes back and forth, in and out... But I had a brand new line that was full of air also... So I had to pump it down, close the valve, bring it up, open valve, and repeat..
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Originally Posted by 95greenlude
(Post 38067567)
nope...not what it says.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...leedclutch.jpg Basically you open up the valve with a hose attached to it. Dip the end of the hose in some extra fluid so you cant suck up air....Just pump the clutch until you see no more air and close the bleeder screw. pump the clutch a couple of more times and it should have pressure That is correct, sorry my CHILTONS Manual says it the way I listed. The method the Helms says seems like it would work but I worry about getting air in the line pumping with it open. I spose if it was submerged in enough fluid it would be okay. But like I said, I didn't find the chiltons method to be that effective either.. after trying it twice. When your doing the whole Line, its a pain no matter what especially by yourself. -->> *My Pops mentioned 'pre-bleeding' the master cylinder before installing it? He said your spose to do it on all master cylinders (brakes too) so fluid gets on the seal inside and air gets out before you put it in? anybody ever heard of this.. ? so I just pushed on the rod, and pulled back slowly while pouring fluid in the line whole to fill it up before I put it in. Since the line is on top none of it leaks out during the install. |
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
i use a vacula or my power bleeder to bleed the clutch system.
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Ok, new problem with this repair. I have gotten everything off and put the new one in. I have attached everything, except the upper nut to the left hand side. This is the one that is the hardest to reach form inside the cabin. How do you all get the nut on? I have big thick hands. I may just need to pay some kid $5 to use his small hands. LOL
Any help would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by 92hondalude
(Post 38045370)
dont remove the pin. Loosen the nut on the shaft and unscrew the shaft out of the pedal. Loosen the hydraulic line before unbolting the master cylinder. If you have a wobble extention that will help when removing the nuts on the master cylinder.
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
Bump
|
Re: Replacing Clutch Master Cylander - Tricks from experience?
The chick to getting the upper bolt on is to get a tiny woman with tiny hands and terach her where to put it. LOL
I guess they are good for something. LOL
Originally Posted by crj_lll
(Post 38113754)
Ok, new problem with this repair. I have gotten everything off and put the new one in. I have attached everything, except the upper nut to the left hand side. This is the one that is the hardest to reach form inside the cabin. How do you all get the nut on? I have big thick hands. I may just need to pay some kid $5 to use his small hands. LOL
Any help would be appreciated. 92hondalude, it worked like a charm. Less than 5 minutes form disconnected to connected. Thanks alot |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:31 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands