whitediamond642

Okay, here's where I am:

I have a 94 accord w/ an OBD I JDM H22 with an external MSD ignition and coil setup. It ran fine all last year and it sat for a month during winter w/o being started. Didn't start, so I checked it out and found water ON TOP of the 3rd spark plug that had gotten past the boot. Drained fluids, no water in oil or in cylinder. Still won't start. No spark.

Replaced distributor, cap, rotor, ignition, and coil. Nothing. Put a different ECU on it. No spark. Tested for continuity from ignition output pin on ECU (A21, I think) and had continuity. Changed all spark plugs, checked all resistance of wires and coil. Everything checked out. I even tested the ignition by using MSD's test where you ground the white wire from the MSD that goes into the distributor (negative coil wire). It sparked then, but still no spark on cranking. I checked all wires at the igniter (blk/yel=power, yel/grn=continuity to ecu, green=power). I am getting fuel, so I don't think it's the main relay. I checked all my grounds, though I don't see one near my thermostat as others have said. Maybe that's it, but I need a more specific spot to check because the only wires I've got near my thermostat is that sensor wire. I've check every freaking fuse in the car twice. All good. I am out of things to check.

I spent my entire spring break working on this and am no further along. Please, someone help me out! Thanks in advance.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whitediamond642 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I checked all wires at the igniter (blk/yel=power, yel/grn=continuity to ecu, green=power).</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you actually tested the ignitor itself?

Are you using the JDM H22 wiring harness?

Is the firing order definately correct?

I see you're from Lawerence,
that's not too far from KC

whitediamond642

How do you test the ignitor itself? I wouldn't think it would be that because I bought a brand spanking new distributor, but with my luck . . .

The wiring harness is the JDM, but everything was lengthened since it was going into a LHD car. I had Dynamic Auto install the motor over on Independence Ave. (no longer exists since Mike got another job). The car has run fine for three years with absolutely no problems.

As for firing order, yep, I checked that, too. Three times just to be sure.

I keep reading about a ground near the thermostat, but I can't find it. I checked all my other grounds (Tranny, driver's side near the head, and coming off the battery).

Thanks for the quick reply, and anymore help is greatly appreciated.

Where in KC are you?

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whitediamond642 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you test the ignitor itself? I wouldn't think it would be that because I bought a brand spanking new distributor, but with my luck . . .

The wiring harness is the JDM, but everything was lengthened since it was going into a LHD car. I had Dynamic Auto install the motor over on Independence Ave. (no longer exists since Mike got another job). The car has run fine for three years with absolutely no problems.

As for firing order, yep, I checked that, too. Three times just to be sure.

I keep reading about a ground near the thermostat, but I can't find it. I checked all my other grounds (Tranny, driver's side near the head, and coming off the battery).

Thanks for the quick reply, and anymore help is greatly appreciated.

Where in KC are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

South KC, near the Grandview, Belton area.

Usually a new distributor doesn't come with a new ignitor.

Disconnect the blk/yel, grn, yel/grn, and blue wires from the ICM

Turn the ignition switch ON. Check voltage between the blk/yel wire
and the body ground. There should be battery voltage.

If there is no battery voltage, check the blk/yel (yel) wire between the
ignition coil and the ICM.

If there is voltage, then turn the ignition switch on again, and check for
voltage between the green wire and the body ground. There should be
battery voltage.

If there is no battery voltage, check the
-Ignition coil
-green(blue) between the ignition coil and the ICM.

If there is battery voltage, then check the yel/grn wire between the ECM
and the ICM.

Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the ICM.

If all tests are normal, replace the ICM

mgags7

ok so

you know the ecu is good
you have continuity from the ecu to the ign
you know the ign is good
you know the wires and plugs are good

this would all suggest the main relay

but you said you are getting fuel.....wow this is odd....

im assuming isnt a check engine light....

the only thing i can think of now is put your multimeter on pin A21 and turn the key to start, that will tell you if the ecu is doing its job or not......

are you very sure your getting fuel?

let us know this is interesting....

951dc5

Was the msd installed professionally? Is all the wires getting good contact?

whitediamond642

Okay, finally figured out spark. The pin on A21 somehow was bent just enough to not make good enough contact during cranking. All I did was bend the contact a little and I started to get spark. It still won't start up though.

Now I'm thinking that I'm not getting gas since I only had probably a gallon of gas and had the car jacked WAY up in the front (my rear bumper is almost on the ground), so I'll put some more gas in it and hopefully it will start right up. I know I was getting gas before the spark problem because there was gas in my exhaust (the car wasn't jcked up at this point). I'll keep everyone posted on what happens. Thanks a lot for all your help.