preludeNApower

92 Prelude SI lowered about 1in on eibach sport springs


So I torn down my front end this winter, replaced all bushings with Engergy Suspension poly bushings. I also put new ball joints (adjustable uppers).

I now have no caster, wheel will not return to center and on alignment rack it showed about .08* caster. WTF!?

Before new bushings I had 2.25* and 1.7* caster.

Changes I made:

New ES bushings (all front end, radius rods, UCA, LCA, Strut).
I shaved the collar of the radius rod 1/4 in on both sides in attempt to increase caster. Could this be my problem? I dont think so cause I shaved the collar pulling the entire hub forward which should increase caster.

I have gone over it several times had it on an alignment machine and everything, even with my upper ball joints maxed out for the most caster I still dont have the wheel goin back to center

What do you think could be the problem? New radius rod bushings too big?

please help, willing to pay for results (located in hartford CT area).

Wing8806

Could be the radius rod bushings, is the radius rod installed into the bushings as far as it can go?


An easy solution (if you wanted to hop on the waiting list) is to get an ESP traction bar - adjustable rods.

minilogoguy18

The radius rod bushings can be installed wrong, the thicker one goes in the back, if you put the thinner one facing in then you'll lose caster. Also run the nut down as much as possible.

Traction bar is also a good solution since I had a bent rod on one side causing the same problem you're having but I had all new OEM bushings installed correctly.

Apex1972

this/\ i did mine wrong a few years ago but if i remember correctly by having them backwards they wouldnt even go in because the thicker ones made it too hard to get the holes lined back up at the rear of the arms. damn i remember how much of a PITA that **** was. i will never mess with this again until i get my traction bar.

preludeNApower

I wish I could afford the ESP bar. Wouldnt having the thicker bushing in the back create less caster? Back as in closer to the engine.
Today I shaved the rod down some more prolly close to 3/4 in total and now have gotten caster back and wheel returns to center. Now I have a hopping issue coming from LF tire under hard right turns.

I think I am going to try new radius rods. but in theory that will just make me loose caster. I am at a loss with this **** and first autocross event is TODAY! guess I wont be making it

preludeNApower

still no fixing the hop which im thinking may be a bushing binding. Doesnt seem like the tire is having any clearance issues.

The LCAs look like they are being pulled forward causing bushing deformation, the left more than the right. I added washers on the back of the left radius rod to attempt correcting.
Now I lost caster on the left and still have the hop/binding going on during hard right turns.

What do you think I should try? I am stumped on this one

yroachy

when you first assembled everything did you torque down your suspension when the car was loaded or in the air? are the bjs installed right? (no offense). I would double check your radius rod bushings too. thicker one at the back would decrease your caster.
Also to make adjustments with your radius rods, you need to extend the threads and put a nut on the rear side. i'm not sure what you're grinding down but i would probably grab some new radius rods to be safe.

preludeNApower

So found that one of my lower control arms is bent, dont know how this happened but I ordered 2 new ones and also have 2 new radius rods to put it. Hopefully this will straighten everything out. In addition to that The rods appear to be slightly bent as well

Do you think it is possible the arm was bent this hole time and i never noticed till i put new bushings in?


My original radius rods (off a 92 si) are marked with a AA, and the new ones I have off a 95 si are marked with a JA does anyone know what these markings mean?

Hawkze_2.3

The factory designed caster to be adjusted by changing different sized radius rods, so those markings likely just indicate which length of rod they are.

preludeNApower

I have looked into the different sized radius rods and cannot find any valid information about it, just people mentioning honda may have different sized rods. Only 2 part numbers listed one for L and one for R as far as I can find.

preludeNApower

No I torqued everything down with it on jack stands, and have since gone back and torqued down while on the ground.

Yes the ball joints are installed right, doesn't even seem possible to do it wrong.

Hawkze_2.3

Maybe that was just for the 5th gen SH:

51359-S30-N00 007 001 ROD, R. FR. RADIUS (ص¬)(ORANGE)
51365-S30-N20 008 001 ARM, L. FR. (LOWER)
51369-S30-N00 009 001 ROD, L. FR. RADIUS (ص¬)(ORANGE)

The colors might be how they differentiate...

preludeNApower

where did you pull those part numbers and what year/model?
I can't find anything with colors listed

majestic honda just had this for a 92 and 95 si

51352-SS0-003 008 001 ROD, R. FR. RADIUS
51362-SS0-003 010 001 ROD, L. FR. RADIUS

and alldata lists this for a 92 si

Radius Rod
14 - Right 51352SS0003
14 - Left 51362SS0003

same thing for both

And for a 2000 I see it only lists one part number same for Left and Right,
51352-S30-013 008 002 ROD, FR. RADIUS

Hawkze_2.3

That was from Magestic for an SH 5th gen, so 1997-2001 should work.

The SH is completely different from all other Preludes, though. Definitely wouldn't help you out...