wafflecopter

Whats the max boost a stock h23a1 block can handle. From what ive heard the rings are the weak point in turbo builds. I would like to use stock block with mahle gold pistons and eagle rods with a gt35r turbo. I dont need 600+ hp just 350-400. Is this a safe setup if tuned corectly?

pentaq

For sure is. I'd balance the crank for peace of mind.

wafflecopter

Excuse my noobness but what exactly does that entail? And what does the machine shop need? I planned on doing a balance shaft delete anyways but didnt know about the crank balancing

203BB2

For more power you could also change your crank and camshaft before going turbo giving your Pistons a bigger stroke and opening your valves to let more air+gas in
Do your research on it though , you don't want to end up with bent valves

Also working on the internals first would be better that way when you do go turbo you won't have to go back into the engine
JUST MY OPINION----

I'm against the balance shaft delete though if your motor moves to much it can cause problems in the long run

wafflecopter

That was sorta my plan was to do the internals in a way that i wont go back in unless i break something but upgrade intake and other things easily accessed later on. As for going turbo i planned on dropping in the motor and going turbo at the same time. I thought about going for a longer stroke by messing with crank shafts and rods/piston combos but couldnt find a good turbo applicable combo.

203BB2

https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude...hread-1232811/
^^^^^
Here's a old thread to give you a idea of your stock internals
----
2kracing.com has a good amount of performance parts including camshafts but it would be somewhat pointless to change the camshaft without changing your Pistons stroke as well

wafflecopter

Thanks for the thread ill give it a read and see what i can come up with. One last question. I heard h23 cranks cant handle high revs like an h22. Could this be fixed with it being balanced?

203BB2

I would imagine that the h22 crank would have higher tolerances since it has to put up with vtec
I had/have a h23a1 prelude and I've raced and tapped out at 7k a few times without a problem

Not sure if having more balance would let have Higher rev though might wana do some more research

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

If you go with the Mahle Golds, don't expect the build to last more than 60K.

wafflecopter

Honestly i dont know if ill put 60k on the car. Its not a daily just more of a fun car that when done i can **** some camaro and mustang owners off but it just has to last either till i build a 750+ motor or sell the car.

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Since you are considering changing the internals, is your question, "how much HP on stock H23 sleeves?"

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

I think you should consider swapping to stock internal H22 with water/meth injection. Will probably outlast and outperform the H23 build.. an in any event it will be cheaper. Regarding the stock H23 crank, it can be revved pretty high when balanced with balanced piston/rod combo. I personally know someone that has an h23 bottom end with types pistons and a h22 head that revs it up pretty good. Build is bored 1mm over, stock port head, and Pro2s and makes 266 WHP all motor. I think he may have fly cut the pistons though.

wafflecopter

Well the plan was h23 block with h22 internals and h22 head then turbo it. I figured h23 block is stronger given the closed deck design.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

H22 comes in a closed deck variant too. I believe it's the A4

wafflecopter

Its not the A4 its the jdm A but i already have a spare h23a1 lying around and a blown sh 97 so id rather use the h23 to avoid atts since its max torque is so low.

KdrewsBB6

I'm making 450hp on my h22a4 block with mahle gold Pistons and eagle rods

pentaq

H23 crank is prone to wobble on high rev as a result of poor balancing, so crank bearings say good bye. Take a crank, a clutch, a flywheel, and a crank pulley to the shop and they will balance the whole set. My H23 crank had differences as of 200g per counterweight at 8000 rpms. They afforded to get to 2-5g/8000 rpms.

wafflecopter

What kind of valvetrain? Turbo? Psi? Any other details?

wafflecopter

Thanks ill have to consider it.

KdrewsBB6

Stock head, skunk2 intake, 20psi on a precision 6265 turbo, mfactory lsd, synchrotech carbon sleeves, competition stage 5 clutch, 1100cc injectors, walbro 255.

98vtec

why not just use a h22 to begin with and not have to run in circles?

my stock h22 made almost 400whp on pump gas.

98vtec

and if you would do a little research on what turbos are and how they accomplish a particular job, you will find that boost pressure is irrelevant to determining power output unless you know a lot more information than what is given.

wafflecopter

Because ive got an h23 block already and buying an h22 would be pointless. Id still need new internals and sleeving so its a waste of money

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Stock internal H22 have made 400ish WHP with proper tuning and have a reasonable life span... considering that a replacement can be bought for $1000. I have seen a couple hit the dyno at over 500, but I do not know how long they lasted (my guess is not very long at all). There is a guy on here that made 550+ on a bone stock H23A Blue top running pure methanol fuel and ran it for a whole season. Low 9 sec 1/4 mile with a stock block! That guy is a professional, and really spent the time gathering the info to make that build possible, plus most people do not run pure methanol in these engines. I'm just using it to show that with the proper set-up, the stock H series can really perform well. The H22s respond to turbos (or even NA builds) better than your stock H23 so that is a big plus in switching. Trust me, it is money well spent. No need to waste money on a Mahle build, those set-ups really don't last longer than a stock block anyway... Just my 2 cents.

98vtec

whats the point in sleeving for only 350-400whp?