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I have a 94 prelude with a h22a and a p28 ecu. Only mod I have is a cold air intake and a cheap header on there. I'm having some issues at the moment with it. If I got full throttle and vtec engages and say I come to a stop and I have to take off it will sputter and buck on me in the lower rpm range but once I get up to about 3,000rpm it will be fine. Also this started happening recently it will be running perfectly fine and all of a sudden stop running and when this happens it's really hard to start. And when I do get it to start it's usually at full throttle. Now I have done some reading and some say it's a distributor issue and others say it's either a fuel pump or filter issue. How would I go about checking the distributor and what fuel pressure should my fuel pump be putting out? Could this issue be related to my vtec issue and is there a possibility that the tune that is on this ecu is causing vtec just to stay engaged.
If the tune did not do this before, it should be fine.
What have you done to troubleshoot so far? I would start by doing a plug change, checking all your grounds, fuel pressure should be ~43 psi at idle. Check to make sure your timing is still set right, both dist. timing and the mechanical timing of the engine.
See I dunno if this was going on befor because the original owner of the car who did the swap was running a f22 ecu on a jdm h22a. It ran like **** before I put on the chipped p28. Other things I have done is change the spark plugs. For checking the timing would I need a timing light and for mechanical timing what do you mean? Like I said before as long as I don't hit vtec I'm fine once I hit it and come out of it will spit and sputter like no ones business. Also would having the vtec oil pressure switch not hooked up cause this? Mine is not hooked up and it not throwing any cels or anything.
See I dunno if this was going on befor because the original owner of the car who did the swap was running a f22 ecu on a jdm h22a. It ran like **** before I put on the chipped p28. Other things I have done is change the spark plugs. For checking the timing would I need a timing light and for mechanical timing what do you mean? Like I said before as long as I don't hit vtec I'm fine once I hit it and come out of it will spit and sputter like no ones business. Also would having the vtec oil pressure switch not hooked up cause this? Mine is not hooked up and it not throwing any cels or anything.
Mechanical timing is checking that your timing is at tdc on your t-belt via the marks or notches on the cam gears and flywheel. So meaning your cams and crank should all be lined up when at top dead center. Distributor timing is with the timing gun or light. Also sounds like you should test your coil and your ICM in your distributor just to make sure they are not at fault.
I had bucking like this before. Turned out I needed a new cap and rotor on the distributor. Mine were toast so it wasn't allowing current to the spark plugs therefore causing misfires.
How would I go about testing ICM and distributor? And if the distrubutor is bad would it be a good idea to convert it over to an external coil distributor? I also plan on changing the fuel filter this weekend.
Quick question anyone have a part number for a cap and rotor for a internal coil distributor. Everyone I found so far is an external coil.
Here is what you need, I just found this really fast. Hope this helps. Also you can use a 92-95 civic distributor cap on your distributor since they are the same housing, that part number is 30102-PT2-026 and the rotor is the same for the civic and prelude and most other honda's that part number is 30103-P08-003
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YEC-DISTRIBUTOR-CAP-ROTOR-92-01-JDM-HONDA-PRELUDE-ACCORD-H22A-H23A-F20B-/261877422942?hash=item3cf91c5b5e&vxp=mtr
Speaking of, I need a new cap and rotor or just may replace the entire distributor but I can't remember what parts I used. I'd rather buy the parts before taking it apart to speed up the job so does anyone remember what they used for a 93 Jdm h22a converted to obd2 in an obd2 96 lude? Swapped oil pumps and my crank position sensor is located by the crank timing sprocket as well as a 2 plug dizzy, so it's a full obd2 conversion.
I wanna say I used the regular prelude dizzy since it's obd2 but it's been 5 years lol.
Speaking of, I need a new cap and rotor or just may replace the entire distributor but I can't remember what parts I used. I'd rather buy the parts before taking it apart to speed up the job so does anyone remember what they used for a 93 Jdm h22a converted to obd2 in an obd2 96 lude? Swapped oil pumps and my crank position sensor is located by the crank timing sprocket as well as a 2 plug dizzy, so it's a full obd2 conversion.
I wanna say I used the regular prelude dizzy since it's obd2 but it's been 5 years lol.
So you are using the TD-77U, distributor, so just purchase an external coil cap and rotor. Honda Oem part number for cap is 30102-PT3-A12 and the rotor is 30103-P08-003.
Should look like this:
i have been having the same exact trouble with my 4th gen. it origanlly had a h23a non vtech i swaped it to a jdm h22a vtech and put a chiped and tuned p28 ecu. the car runs great all the way threw vtech then it has a very bad dead spot below 3,000 and if i stop and lay off the gas it stalls. have no clew whats the problem.
I believe this would be it then, this is one on my car. Damn stripped screws on the cap though that's why I considered just replacing the whole thing
No dont replace the whole thing you cant fit an 8mm socket on those bolts anymore to take the cap off? And yes thats a td77u external coil distributor.
The 8mm slips ever so slightly so it'll just round 'em off, I tried the philips, stripped the hole. I was apprehensive about using wd40 on them so close to electrical components. Not sure what would happen but it sounds like a bad idea.
Whatever. I'll just have to use a bolt extractor to get em off. Those bolts can't possibly be anything too "9 dollars per at Honda" special hahaha.
The 8mm slips ever so slightly so it'll just round 'em off, I tried the philips, stripped the hole. I was apprehensive about using wd40 on them so close to electrical components. Not sure what would happen but it sounds like a bad idea.
Whatever. I'll just have to use a bolt extractor to get em off. Those bolts can't possibly be anything too "9 dollars per at Honda" special hahaha.
Well you could try wd-40 or liquid wrench and see what happens but if the 8mm slips over slighty maybe try an 8mm box end wrench and see if that does any good. I have had the same issue once I ended up just hammering on the 8mm socket over the bolts and it got all of them loose. The cap from Honda actually comes with those bolts so your good to go there.
Alright thanks man I'll give that a try, though like u said the Honda part comes with the bolts, so who cares if I destroy them as long as they come off. with smog due up in a month I need to get that cap replaced. I'm paranoid about CA smog now cuz my obd2 failed on HC's last time then I drove it hard and took it back and it passed with super low HC's. Lol
yeah so far this week has been pretty rough on my car. go out to start it to run up to the store to get some things. started for a second and it ran fine for a couple of seconds then just died. tried to start it up and it wouldn't do anything. I wanted to check to see if it was getting spark and I really didn't have anything to take out a spark plug so I grabbed my timing light that I had readily available and threw it on and had my wife try and start it. timing light was going off still wasn't starting. so im leaning towards a fuel issue. what I have ready is it could very well be the main relay (solder points). is there any type of bypass for this or should I just chuck up the $60 and get a new one? im not really good at soldering.
Sounds like it is your main relay and just buy a used one you dont need to buy a brand new one as most honda main relays are readily available from junk yards or online for a few bucks.
05-26-2015, 09:53 PM
Sputtering in low rpm after vtec engagement.
that's why I considered just replacing the whole thing
