Manifest113

I have a 93 boosted h22 swap in my eg. Car is having a issue that just now started. basically when i go 70% throttle at around 3500-4000 rpm the car will stop accelerating and fall on its face and the check engine light will flash once and then go away. on a lighter throttle is will go threw the whole power band. sometimes it wont do it at all even at wide open and sometimes it will go to 6000 rpms. new knock sensor, plugs wires. no codes either. any ideas or maybe something simple im overlooking? thanks.

holmesnmanny

Whenever the check engine flashes its normally going to store a code so check for codes.

Manifest113

So count the blinks lol. I'll do that and see what I find out

Manifest113

so tried to pull codes andddd there is none. i did the paper clip trick and the cel just goes solid. car never lost power so the code should be stored if there is one.

holmesnmanny

The next time the code flashes, do not turn the car off. Instead, safely pull over to a safe spot and pull the code while the engine is still running.

Manifest113

yea that was my next plan didnt think about it before that turning the car off would clear the code. i pulled the vtec selonoid off today and cleaned it all and replace the gasket/screen filter. its doing it way less now but i havent been able to drive it much.

JRCivic1

If you have a tunable engine management system such as Hondata, you are most likely hitting "boost cut". This will illuminate the check engine light briefly and the vehicle will seem to be non throttle responsive for a few seconds before recovering. This will NOT trigger a MIL code. Accelerating at part throttle will likely not reach this threshold, and thus the car will seem to operate normally. The fact that the average daily temperature across this country is dropping means that the air is becoming more dense and boost pressures will climb as the mercury drops. If the symptom seems to occur more often at cooler temperatures compared to when it is warm outside... like early in the morning or after dark, this is likely the issue. If your target peak boost pressures are around 10psi and you are using a stock MAP sensor, you will need to consult with your tuner and either turn off the boost cut (which I do not recommend) or replace the MAP sensor with one that reads more boost so that the boost cut can be set a few psi higher than your target boost setting... to allow for some boost variance because of air density.

Manifest113

I was just talking with a friend about that and it seems like a possibility for sure. I have a hondata map sensor I was waiting to put in till next tuning time. I am running stock now and it has gotten worse with the weather changes. Thanks a lot man guess it time for more tuning lol