Loyalhondahaver

So I just picked up a bb6 for a legit price.

The only one issue I have noticed is the temp gauge doesn't move.

The needle always stays right where it would at normal operating temp even when the car is off and the key is out of the ignition.

This could f**k me if I don't address the issue.

The cluster has white face plates (sigh).. Maybe the issue started then?

Anyways.. I have searched and found a few similar threads but nothing just like so.

Thinking I need to replace the actual temp gauge? Or the 'sending sensor' near the dizzy? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

AWDManiac

I'd say the sending unit is not functioning correctly. Any check engine lights? Does it start up on cold days rough?

Loyalhondahaver

She starts just fine on a cold day. No excessive cranking. And No Check engine lights. I might scan the computer though in case the CEL bulb burnt out or was removed.

Brandonb92

change your thermostat had the same problem

Loyalhondahaver

I just picked up a thermostat. I'll change it in the morning and tell ya if it fixed my problem.. You know just kinda throwin parts at it.

gstrudler

Thermostat and sending unit will not cause those symptoms, the gauge itself would still cycle down to "C" when you turn the ignition off as there is no power being applied. The needle is either stuck, the little motor for the gauge is bad, or the wiring is bad somewhere. First thing to do is pull the cluster and then remove the front clear plastic (there are clips on the top and bottom) and see if you can even move the needle.

Loyalhondahaver

Thank you for your input...(now that I read this) Of course the new thermostat didn't fix this issue. I shall do what is instructed.

Loyalhondahaver

Okay so I took off the clear cluster cover and the needle was not stuck.

I took this semi nonsense video,


Uggh. Must have temp gauge.

Loyalhondahaver

Does this sound like a good suggestion?

Check the wire to the sensor. Its the single connector under the dizzy. You can unplug it, and with the ignition on have someone watch the gauge and ground that wire. The temp on the gauge should max out, if it does then the wire and gauge are fine and the sensor is bad. If not then its a problem with the wire.
- Project_Prelude of preludepower.com

That was for a 4th gen prelude.
I've heard if you max out the temp gauge it could do some damage.

gstrudler

The fact that the gauge does not return back down when you shut off the car tells me there is a problem with the gauge itself. At that point there is no connection to the coolant temp sensor or anything else, so they cannot be the problem.

I just pulled apart a spare cluster I have and the good news is you can change out just the temp gauge. The other thing I noticed is that the needle seems a bit temperamental about its orientation when you put it on. The needle should always fall on its own back to minimum, even if you have the gauge upside down. Also make sure the back metal cover is on the gauge when you're testing it; it seemed to make a difference.

My suggestion if you have access to one is to swap your cluster with a known working one (any friends with Preludes?). Doesn't have to be an SH, could be auto or manual ('97-01), you just need to test to verify your cluster is bad. If it is bad, at that point pick up another cluster. If it's not from an SH, you'll need to swap over the coolant gauge to your existing cluster. Here's a quick overview:

Basically you pull out the cluster, pop the front plastic cover, then pull off the black plastic cover. Flip over and unscrew all the screws from the back on the coolant gauge side; there should be 8 (the gauges are in two halves; you only need the one half). The gauges should just fall out now. Pull the needle off the temp gauge - my suggestion is to use a flathead screwdriver in between the motor and the cluster plastic on the backside; you can pry up a part of the black plastic piece of the bottom of the needle to get it loose, then just pull the needle out. Now pry up that corner of the gauge face until you can see the screw(s) holding the coolant gauge to the gauge cluster. Unscrew and it will fall free. Repeat and swap on your existing cluster, then reverse and install. Note the needle instructions above when you re-install it.

Loyalhondahaver

Thank you much for your input. I did just what you said and now she reads me the engine temp accurately. I was confused about one thing. Other than there being an extra bulb for ATTS, whats the difference between a base model cluster an a sh cluster?

''if its not from an SH, you'll need to swap over the coolant gauge to your existing cluster''- is what confused me. Pardon my post, posting from a prehistoric phone.

gstrudler

The ATTS plate and bulb was one factor, the other being that most used clusters seemed to be from auto's which I presume you didn't want, being that you could just swap over the temp gauge.

Glad it worked out for you, though.