EJ8Bramaged

Motor is in, however, no oil pressure. Used the oil pump from the H22A4 and primed for several minutes before trying to fire the motor. Oil pressure light never went out. Checked oil filter for oil and it was dry. Filled it (the oil filter) with oil and put it back on to help prime but still no oil pressure. The pump was working prior to the swap in the H22. If anyone has any ideas, it would help!!! According to HMO the motor was "start up tested" but the engine was dry when we got it.

holmesnmanny

Have you hooked up a gauge to be sure that there isn't simply an open in the wire/connector/switch ?

EJ8Bramaged

Got it figured it out. When we had both oil pans off, we accidentally grabbed the wrong pick up (grabbed the H23A pickup with the H22 pan). Swapped them out, and got oil pressure.

Then there was a noise. Sounded like a timing belt issue, so we pull the upper cover and the timing belt is shredded. Turned out to be the washer behind the manual tensioner. Grabbed the wrong part number. This isn't new considering the Honda Dealership gave us the wrong parts on 3 different occasions for this ONE motor so far.

Everything should be back together tonight and running. The little bit that it was running, this thing really sounds great and had great throttle response. Looking forward to the test drive.

couple pictures:

timing belt is about 1/2 the normal width


debris from the timing belt rubbing


had to pull the everything back off after the timing belt noise


combination of extra parts from the H22 and H23

EJ8Bramaged

Only once code thrown - Coolant temp sensor. Picking up another one tomorrow and putting it in. Other than that, the car is out driving right now. Car will be back in the shop in a week for new cv shafts.

ed6da6

im swapping a h23a vtec blue top manual ecu in a 97 prelude sh i want to use the h23a ecu my question is how did u hook up ur egr?

EJ8Bramaged

There is no such ECU in existence.

EJ8Bramaged

Currently the car is running the factory H22A4 ECU. Ordering the P28 this week with the OBD1 conversion harness. I'm still trying to find any wiring that needs to be ran (such as VTEC) to ensure we don't mess anything up once it's in. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Milkey

Good info on this thread, I've got an H23A and a bunch of other goodies sitting my garage waiting for my H22A4 to come out.

ed6da6

i ran the 97 prelude sh ecu on my blue top did the same thing on the top plenum and reused the 97 dizzy and i got a cel that says a random multiple missfire on all cyclinders(new plugs,wires,cap and rotor) any ideas im stuck the shop i took it too, to do the wiring for the dizzy said its the "usdm prelude ecu thats not running the motor right" any ideas?

holmesnmanny

Just use the h23a vtec long block and use the intake and exhaust manifolds along with everything else from your SH engine. There is really no reason to use anything cept the block of the H23a vtec engine.

BoostedCD6

i just recently did this swap in my bb6 lude & i gotta say the only way this engine would run correct & at its full potential is with a proper tune. the pcb manual ecu is for the f20b, h23a vtec engines never came from the factory with a manual transmission.. both the f20b ecu & h22 ecu will give you a power loss throughout rpms with the h23, plus it shouldnt be getting revved past 7500. other than that it feels great & prob the best engine in the h & f series class by far... 205hp, 162tq

EJ8Bramaged

We were using the H22A4 stock ECU when we dropped it in. The only CEL was a bad O2 sensor, but is not on a chipped P28 with the downstream eliminated so no more CEL.

The blue top intake manifold & throttle body are much larger. This is why we used the lower plenum and TB from the blue top. Since we used the lower plenum, we swapped over the fuel rail, injectors and pressure regulator from the blue top as well. The fuel lines have to be ran a little different to work, but we haven't run into any issues yet.

We haven't dyno tuned it yet, we just had a friend street tune it for now with Chrome on a chipped P28. Wideband shows a consistent 13.1-13.5 AFR and pulls very hard. The only issue is the idle is lower than before and there is not an IAC valve screw on the blue top TB. We only can adjust it so much through the tune. Once the new header & cat back are installed, the car may get taken to the dyno and retuned just to check the numbers.

ed6da6

I have a feeling ur swap was more plug-n-play then mine because urs is obd2b dizzy and non sh im guessing my best bet is chipped p28 for non cel motor

EJ8Bramaged

Chipped P28 made a huge difference once it was tuned, but the stock ECU should be able to run the motor whether it's an SH or Base. As long as you swap all of the correct parts, it'd run without a CEL.

bryanbrochill

Sorry to bump an old thread.... BUT I am in need of some knowledge. Bought a 97 base with the h23a already swapped in. Pretty sure its running stock ecu and such. Has the random missfire codes in all 4 cylinders. Ive read I can get rid of it with a prelude obd1 distributor and an obd1 ecu. Can anyone verify this? Thinking about getting a p28, obd1 conversion harness, and obd1 dist. Is this my best option? Plan is for a nice tune and it is a daily driver. Any other suggestions? I dont really know what was swapped from the 22 and what wasnt but it runs and hits vtec at 5500 rpms. Has some bogging and just feels like it needs a tune to act how it should