KashMillien

Mira

5th gen Lude I got. Gonna build her N/A. Street Car for life. Right now its all stock. Has aem v2 cai and stage 1 clutch& 10 lbs. flywheel If I recall correctly. Im damn sure not no newbie but, im def not an expert. I want some feedback as to what you guys might think would help because I know Ive only named a few parts/upgrades. I didnt really want to put too much here at one time. I just want some general feedback like what other upgrades I should think think about while still keeping it true. Im not rich but money is not really an issue because if a certain part is what Im looking for but expensive, I'll still get it eventually. My ultimate goal is to have a lude thats no b**** on the streets honestly. I want her to be a lude that can mess with a couple real deals on the streets. I know what some people are thinking -"how fast do I think Im gonna make it If I dont turbo or some other forced induction?" But I just want everything to be legal and true. I plan on keeping her forever so Im gonna make her as fast and dailyable as possible. The winters coming up so Im just stocking up on parts for the winter and gonna let it loose come spring. During the winter, Im gonna get a couple regular bolt ons (headers, full exhaust, another aem v2 cause I dont like the dual chamber one). Couple Parts I know Im getting for her are Intake Mani(Sk2), Stg 1 cams & valve trains alike(BC or Sk2), leaning towards Sk2 Cams cause I hear they give better top end. All of this with a damn good tune. Thats all Ive really gotten into so far for the most part. I wanna know if you guys have any another suggestions to help me in this build. Im gonna take it to the track after all the work and cold weather is done, just to see where she lies in the q/mile. I know theres probably some kind of similar post but f that. Idc. I'm me. I want feedback on my Lude and my setup and my aspirations. Let me know what you guys think or can suggest. Any feedback would be appreciated my fellow Luders

StreetShotz

First thing, Hondata S300 or similar and get it tuned. All those mods are useless without a tune.

Dont bother with the mani, its no gains there unless FI. If you want a mani find a used Euro R somewere, far better option.
Skunk2 cams are decent. I have used them in the past, just be sure you get new springs and retainers as well as some cam gears as you need to clock the new cams as well.

snobordboy

To really get the most from a set of cams, you need a bit more displacement or compression. The "easiest" method to get either will be an engine swap to a jdm H22 or bluetop H23A. The bluetop has gained a following the last few years, and can do very well with a few good breathing mods and some cams.

As Street said, a good tuning platform will keep everything in check when tuned right, so it is a good first investment. I also like Hondata S300, but find a local tuner that you will deal wit, and see what they prefer to work with as well. You want to have a system that they know and work with well, it makes your tune better, cheaper, easier etc.

Also, I agree on the mani, if you want a decent manifold, get a spare stock one, and do the iab delete and port to it, and match it to a bigger Throttle body.

ojasia

Stg 1's wont get you this -->" My ultimate goal is to have a lude thats no b**** on the streets honestly. I want her to be a lude that can mess with a couple real deals on the streets." I just checked my valvetrain and valve lash after 3k miles with pro 1's and everything looks as if it was brand new, all lashes were still dead set. Just make sure you either kno what your doing spec'ing the head or have someone do it. I wouldnt over cam it farther than pro 1's on stock bottom, and if your keeping it a true street DD then pro1's on stock cr, and or built bottom end 12.0:1 would be highest, I went with built 11.5:1 even tho. w/ pro 1's I could of gotten away with pro 2's I think and might of gained but its a gamble and extra lift + duration equal less reliable so I made the choice.

850Fabrication

you need torque to get a heavy chassis like a prelude moving and that's only really accomplished one way if you stay naturally aspirated.

I don't know what you call fast but making a prelude fast all motor requires knowing what parts work together and what does not (trust me on that). you cant just throw parts at it and expect to get good gains. You need to do some serious research on dyno graphs and time slips of various setups that are posted all over the internet.

Or you can spend tons of money on various setups like I did and learn the hard way.

KashMillien

Thanks for the feedback guys. Yea the tune is a definite. I doubt I'll find a used euro r im, stock one? Honestly, compression/displacement I dont even understand fully yet. As Im going along learning more and more about cars whenever I can, I'll understand these things more. With the cams, Im aware that the reliability of a daily goes down with higher stage which is why I'll stick to a stg 1 w/ full valvetrain upgrade. This is good, keep it coming

850Fabrication

some friendly advice:

Don't buy one single part until you have a grasp on what you are doing.

StreetShotz

Reliability has nothing to do with the cams. I have run EVERY skunk cam aside from the Ultra 2/3 in a car and it will not effect reliability in any discernible way. It will effect drive ability tho. Tuner 2/3 cams are great street cams, keep drivablility like stock.

And I would have to agree. don't bother spending anything until you understand exactly what your doing. Building NA power is not the easiest thing to do and frankly the H is limited without tearing the thing apart. 220ish is not going to keep you very competitive, even with stock new vehicles.

850Fabrication

that depends on what kind of 220whp you are talking about. 220whp on a dyno where stock h's run 175whp is a good jump in power and can put a prelude in the 13's easily. 220whp on a dyno that reads a stock h22 at 200whp, not so much.

dyno numbers do not represent speed.

Dorkenheimer

Keep researching dude! Soak up all the youtube videos (not the ones titled "STOCK GSR EG HATCH VS B16 SWAPPED EK COUPE WITH NOS") you can that pertain to engines and how they work. Browse this site and READ THE STICKIES at the top of every sub forum. That's where all your vital, need-to-know info is at. Read all the articles you can. Talk to people. Message people. Ask questions. Start out by playing around on your Prelude. Check the valve lash. Change some gaskets. That type of stuff.

As far as making power, how deep are you willing to go? If you stick with the bolt-on items, you'll notice a difference and probably be satisfied for a while...until you want more. I would focus on buying some quality bolt ons first off. Go for a gutted and ported OEM intake manifold. It will be your cheapest and best bet for making power. Some of the fastest H cars out there use this setup, just with custom upper manifolds. Go get a quality header. Stay away from crap like DC sports or some deal you found on Ebay. If you want to mess with some fast cars on the street, you'll have to throw some real money at your whip. Have you considered H2B ;P (shameless plug)...jk. They don't make that kit for your car. I should shut up now.

850Fabrication

Actually, Rosko did.



My shop car is based on his kit

Dorkenheimer

I did know that, but I thought he only made like, 2 or something.

StreetShotz

Any dyno that is reading 200whp on a stock Prelude is run by people who don't know how to work a dyno. Clearly not corrected properly.

The stock figures on any properly calibrated and compensated dyno is around the 175 mark.
And you are correct, dyno numbers do not translate to speed, it is simply a measure of the vehicles improvement. Regardless of the numbers it reads, a baseline should be done and subsequent runs with the same calibrations and similar conditions to see actual gains and the changes those items made on the power band.

KashMillien

Well yea. Im still learning things everyday. Im getting only reputable parts for this Lude unlike when I had my cg6. Hopefully, I can get this exhaust system put on in the morning. Found a performance shop around me and there getting a dyno in like a week. So if theyre good, I'll do some tests to see where she's at. Then I'll continue to build from that. I'll def try to keep you guys updated if you guys care any lol. Keep it comin, thanks