89 gokart

ok im a honda noob so need help here.

well first of all i got an 89 ef d series, according to my buddy. now hes good with hondas but kinda half assed mechanic so he will help but i dont want to use his word on what works.

i want more power and maybe upgrade that stuipid fuel injection system. i want to keep good mileage also but again 5 mpg less wont be noticed. ive heard about the Frankenstein and mini me but when i hear dyb7z and all that i get lost. ive done plenty of searching and all i get is the numbers and "honda codes" how do i tell what block i have? where is the code? and what heads can i put on this? if its doable and safe for the motor id be happy swapping the intake for something multipoint (mpfi?) and adding a turbo. with a turbo do i need to change the comp out or have it tuned?

this car was all stock when i bought it since then i added a cold air intake and new seats.

im also looking to maybe lower it some, but i have questions there. first i saw a guy clocked the bushings in the control arm will this help with the honda wheel bearing issue? what tires can i fit at stock height? its plenty low for me but the 13s look way too small so either lower or bigger tires.

i seen a lot of restoration builds lately. i need some parts like a/c vents and the windsheild trim is ugly as sin. where can i get these?

also the a/c compressor is shot. if possible id like to keep it but my buddys ideas all require removing it. is there a easy way to mod the motor and keep it?

last item to do is the rear disc swap. its a 90s integra i know that but do i need to swap the master or fab anything? this is the driver and i want to keep the swaps and mods easy as the diesel gets 18 mpg.

now a little background on me. ive been working on vehicles for years and my diesel pickup is a work of art in its own. i know fords are easy but hondas are legos right?


any help is much appreciated and if all works out you may see a "toothless redneck honda build" soon

habanerored06si

Well you should make sure to research and verify everything he tells you.

The information provided on this site is bountiful to say the least. I think your steps should be the following.

-Purchase a Haynes or just google one. If I remember correctly, google 'Ab0ve ef manual' and you should find a 100 mb archived file of pdf's for this gen.
-Familiarize yourself with this site; where to obtain the information, how to ask for it, and to be more clear on what exactly you need help with.
-Everyone shouts 'check the faq' which may or may not include the criticisms along with it on this site, so please do. However if the information is old, or irrelevant in anyway do this site a solid and either correct the info or point it to a mods attention for edit or deletion.

Understand there is a rule of either Fast, cheap, and reliable and that there are only 2 of these you can choose for your build.

Drive the car and have a feel for it before you decide to muck it up, it may be the right stats for your driving.

Check the parts section in marketplace for the purchase of used/new items. Lots of vendors here.

Your 'half-assed friend' is telling you to remove it because of his half-*** explanation that removing a/c is done for weight reduction. However if you can't handle summer or have a gf/wife that screams bloody murder for any degree of discomfort. I'd suggest you keep a fully functional a/c unit in your car.

ownedevo10

First what does your budget look like? Depending on your budget and time your answers will be able to be answered a bit quicker. As far as everything you want to do with the car. I would start with one direction at a time especially since your new to hondas. Many peoples first mistake is they try and rebuild the whole car at once and wind up never finishing their project and dump a ton of money and wind up throwing it all away.. So my advice is start small and do one thing at a time. I would start with upgrading Rims and tires and then brakes. Get the car safe. Then possibly some suspension. Then you can start on the motor.. Good luck with the build.

mtflyboy25

iTrader: (2)

To add to the above, pictures are worth 2000000000000000000x words. So take lots of pics as they really help for internet mechanics lol.

and keep your AC..

4drEF

This is the general area that the block number is stamped. Located under the distributor, where the block mates to the trans, and toward the front of the car.


Most every D-series head except the DOHC ZC head will bolt on. You may need to tweak mechanical timing depending on the head so go ahead and search for the block/head setup you decide on.

MPFI is a must for performance. since you are really new to the Honda, do the MPFI swap by itself before diving into more modifications. It will be a little more work, but in the end you will be much more familiar with the car and less chances of things to go wrong will occur.

You will most definitely need a tune with a turbo. Compression is not as much of an issue with modern tuning, however it does add some safety if your tune is sketchy.

Nice upgrades!

Not sure what a clocked bushing is nor do I know what this bearing issue is.
Anyway, you may want to consider your wheels of choice before lowering as the lowering may interfere with the wheels.

Most 15s and some 16s fit really well. You will have to choose your offset as well as tire size accordingly.

Honda dealerships is where I would search first.
Try http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

If you plan to keep a D-series motor, then you should be able to keep the A/C. If you go turbo, then you will have to choose your turbo manifold accordingly. Most log style turbo manifolds are A/C friendly.
Just so you know, there are two manufactures for the A/C compressors for this generation; Sanden and Matsushita. Do some research on these as well as a proper R134 conversion before you dive into replacing it. the R134 conversion does require some simple yet necessary work (o-rings, filter, etc) that you may not be aware of.

You should swap in the same size master cylinder as well as the proportioning valve as a similar car with the same brake setup. since you are only doing the rear brakes, then a 90-91 CRX Si is a fairly close match. This will require the 2040 proportioning valve. If you decide to change out your fronts for the Integra or the Civic sedan EX knuckles, then you will need a 4040 valve.

cool story bro =P

89 gokart

thanks lots of info here ill page and skim and try to learn as i go. heres a pic of the diesel it was a 4k truck now i have way more into it making it what i want. along with a pic of the car. lots of my questions are undecided on the way to go because the options there lower with the 13s would not be bad but 16s would be sweet if they fit. i think im going to look for some other rims and tires id like to keep the 13s with snow tires for winter they look ok and work ok in snow.

as far as mpfi i found this https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/diy-dpfi-mpfi-swap-made-easy-2889205/
is that current and up to date?

only thing it would need is the throwout bearing replaced other than that its in great mechanical shape. so it will be a as i can aquire parts cheap thing. by cheap id go to a junkyard and get them not buy nos from honda. this is not nor ever will be a high dollar car but id like something a little more fun to drive. also since the throwout bearing is going to go someday what 5 speed can i use?





the truck started almost stock 88 f250 diesel with xl interior now almost everything has been replaced on it, so budget is unlimited with time but i dont wanna blow 2k at a time on the honda. if i like the mods i do ill do even more someday it will be one of a kind like the truck.