spun Vtec

The origional problem was...

The car would never get to temp when it was driving. It would heat up fine at idle but when i drove it the temp went down and would not come back up unless it was idle. (i was thinking the thermostat was stuck open)

upon replacing the thermostat with one that didnt look likt was half as beefy (from autozone) from a 97 sol vtec the car stays warm now when i drive.

so it did fix the problem. But then another prob arose.

now sometimes wile driving the car will stop blowing warm air. (has happened about three times lasts for about 2-3 min and then starts blowing hot air out agan.) wile the guage says its at normal opperating temp.

and the idle wile spike and fall rapidly like something is wrong with the iacv. but it will only do it about half the time. sometimes it will be fine and idle low and smooth.

i have no clue whats going on now.

thanks.

spun

limpy

make sure that you have enough coolant in your radiator... that will cause it to idle funny and for the heat to blow cold.

RACINTWEEK

make sure the coolant is bled correctly, an air bubble on your temo sensor will screw up your idle pretty bad

spun Vtec

thanks ill make sure i have enough coolent in it

B-B-K

About the idle, check that ground that goes on the T-stat housing. My boy did a T-stat and forgot to put the ground on the tach needle bounced around.

Hope that works.

91civicEX

GROUND, not enough grounds on the engine and chassis will make ur car act like it has a mind of its own

doublethink

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure the coolant is bled correctly, an air bubble on your temo sensor will screw up your idle pretty bad</TD></TR></TABLE>



when car is cold, open radiator cap, leave it off and start the car.

let the car fully warm up (fan comes on)

watch for any bubbles chances are you have some.

replace the cap and take it for a drive, see if its any better.

also make sure you have full coolant and some in the resiviour tank, and that all the hoses are fully clamped on tight. no leaks!

good luck.

88cerx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicLX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GROUND, not enough grounds on the engine and chassis will make ur car act like it has a mind of its own</TD></TR></TABLE> DUDE i cant believe you just said that today i was working on a brand new 05 F150 putting in a alarm remote starter. i just finished when the car started to go hay wire. with the key off the blower motor was on and if you stick the key in and TRY to start the car nothing worked. i thought i F-ed it up' so i disconnected the module (alarm R/S) and still nothing......... finally upon much further investigation it was the factory ground in the kick panel for the entire electrical system(that i never touched) was loose(from the factory less then 20 miles on the truck)... they put the bolt in cross threaded and never actually tightened it.it never went in more then 3 threds. that's FORD for ya

spun Vtec

update i added more coolent (wile the car was running and idleing bad and it stoped and idled perfect after i added about a quart of coolent) and it seems like the idle problem is gone it idles awsome now at 900 rpm

My fault for thinking i had enough coolent.

Soon after i added the coolent (on the drive to work right after) The heater stoped blowing out hot air agan. but after wotk i drove the car for about 30 miles and it has been running awsome and idleing fine and blowing out hot air.

Im gona try to get any and all bubbles out of my system within the next few days but i think its fixed for the most part.

thanks for all the help!

spun

d15bcoupe

hahahaha, i've spent a week checking all my wiring to sensors and stuff wondering why my idle was all crazy, filled the coolant and it idles perfect now, you guys pwn!