Fuel pump not working after OBD-1 LS swap...with JDMSHIT.com harness..
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pearl City, HI, U.S.A.
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fuel pump not working after OBD-1 LS swap...with JDMSHIT.com harness..
Hey there,
My fuel pump is not turning on... We just finished swapping my car from DPFI to MPFI and then to OBD 1 for the 92 OBD1 LS motor... Usually, once you turn the ignition, the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the fuel rail, but mine doesn't turn on at all... What could be wrong?? could it be possible that the fuel pump got bad from sitting for over a year without starting???
Thanks,
Mark
My fuel pump is not turning on... We just finished swapping my car from DPFI to MPFI and then to OBD 1 for the 92 OBD1 LS motor... Usually, once you turn the ignition, the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the fuel rail, but mine doesn't turn on at all... What could be wrong?? could it be possible that the fuel pump got bad from sitting for over a year without starting???
Thanks,
Mark
#2
Re: Fuel pump not working after OBD-1 LS swap...with JDMSHIT.com harness.. (MarkAngelo)
Make sure your main relay is clicking and is good. If it's not, then it won't supply power to the fuel pump. Give us a call at the shop tomorrow and we can walk you through a couple of other things.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kona/V-town, HI
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Fuel pump not working after OBD-1 LS swap...with JDMSHIT.com harness.. (Newman)
you know i had the same thing happen to me, my fuel pump wasnt priming. i changed the main relay that didnt do it, turned out it was the ground on the pump got corroded
what you gotta do is get some kind of a volt meter and see if theres power at the yel/blk wire on that connector under the back seat when the key is on. if there is power, do a continuity test with the ground wire at that connector to the chassis, there should be continuity. if those checks out then you know its something between that connector and the pump and you gotta drop your tank. now after you drop the tank do a continuity test between the connector and at the positive side on the pump itsself, if theres continuity then thats good. then do the same with the negative side on teh pump itself and on the black wire at the connector, if there is continuity then its probably the pump went bad, if there isnt then its probably the ground. i would first recommend when you take the pump out is to clean the connectors good and then try and put power to it again and see if it works. i replaced my fuel pump anyways since it was the orignal and very old
what you gotta do is get some kind of a volt meter and see if theres power at the yel/blk wire on that connector under the back seat when the key is on. if there is power, do a continuity test with the ground wire at that connector to the chassis, there should be continuity. if those checks out then you know its something between that connector and the pump and you gotta drop your tank. now after you drop the tank do a continuity test between the connector and at the positive side on the pump itsself, if theres continuity then thats good. then do the same with the negative side on teh pump itself and on the black wire at the connector, if there is continuity then its probably the pump went bad, if there isnt then its probably the ground. i would first recommend when you take the pump out is to clean the connectors good and then try and put power to it again and see if it works. i replaced my fuel pump anyways since it was the orignal and very old
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NovaRex
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
4
12-04-2015 05:10 PM