kwell

Whats already done
d15b2 bottom end : freshly rebuilt arround 18,000 miles ago with king race bearings
d15b7 head
mild port work
new valves and seals 10,000 miles ago everything else checked out good
stock cam with a cam gear retarded 2-3 degrees
d15b7 intake manifold
stock obd0 180cc injectors
all idle controllers & coolant lines blocked off
no port work done
.051" mls head gasket
my only problem with this right now is its still a little bit slow and i have to run a b18a ecu for it to run properly without switching to obd1 right now (i think its the mani's fault but I've tested everything and it seems to be all in order) it just seems to be a weird throttling problem like if you try to cruise at a certain speed it will cut the fuel and turn it back on again (kinda sorta like cruise control only a lot faster and leaving the throttle open)

what I want it to do at least 160 hp n/a and make power to 8500 rpm.
Heres my plan as of now this is what im needing help with:
ARP rod bolts
drop the head down
Colt Cam Tri Flow 2 regrind
potentially valve springs
port the head a little more along with matching the manifolds
and Tune with crome or maybe obd0 software
maybe bigger injectors if need be

anything you can add will help me decide what to do with this build better, and i also had a few other questions, if I do have the D16a6 valve springs does anyone know where they will float at? does anyone know where to get a deal on valve springs and valves

thanks -Jake

Sikocivic

If you still have the stock rods in that motor you won't make that much power for long. Those rods are VERY weak and can't take 8500RPM for long before they will break.

You have a nice build going but you need to use a better bottom end. Go with the a6 or z6 bottom end and you should be fine.

kwell

the weak point in the rods is the hardware, the d15 is my choice over the d16a6 i have because of the better rod stroke ratio (it is unintentionally built for higher rpm)

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

i have the complete valve springs and valves including everything else minus the camshaft only that i parted out last year from a d16a6...pm an offer and i will ship asap...!!!

lunalink

i have a complete z6 block if you want/ need any parts LMK.

dohc4life

lol a blown z6 block, go with the a6 block for sure, maybe add a y8 head everyone likes vtec =]

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

not everyone likes vtec

dohc4life

everyone with a honda haha

lunalink

are you sure its blown? if you know nothing please dont speak..
you might have looked at my thread but guess what, it isnt blown. it just overheated but i used it as an excuse to go B series. so please go away noob.

dohc4life

lol you said you took it to a shop and its blown dont call me a noob for trying to keep them from getting scammed, i hate scammers, flakers, and ricers

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

you obviously don't know shyt about the motor or the person selling it...i know him personally and he definitely isn't a scammer...get your facts straight before posting your chingaderas

dohc4life

sorry sir! maybe you shouldnt say a motor is "gone" when its not, id advise you clean the immense amounts of carbon of the top of the pistons before you sell that ****, and you could mind your business, i have no problems with eitherr of you guys in fact i read the crx thread pretty much page for page, ***** clean

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

its part of my business when you label someone a scammer and a flaker especially when you don't know jack **** about the person personally like i do...once someone gets accused on here as a scammer it pretty much tarnishes that persons credibility as garbage and ruins his reputation when trying to make business...post credible facts before speaking

Eighty-Nyne

Stock rods are fine for an N/A setup if they're shotpeened.

Untouched they are still fine up to 180bhp...mostly.

To the OP don't let anyone make you change your build to something thats "better" if you are trying to create a unique build. If you don't care about displacement the d15 block is great. The only thing that sucks is that if you want to use D16 pistons of any type you are going to have to have your block decked. Thats it. The d15 crank is also 4lbs lighter than the d16 crank.

With the head porting. Don't go to big, you're looking for velocity not volume.

With the power you want, you will NEED valve springs and retainers. Unless you want to rev to 7500 only...

I don't see you making much horsepower with stock PM3 pistons...with your power goal you are going to need some serious compression...

kwell

what im hopping for is good velocity at 6500 - 8500 and good savaging and get up to 115 to 120 VE im going to sand my rods instead of shot peaning them i dont see my power goal being to far out of reach with right now my max velocity is like 4800 to 6800

and im using the b2 because of the rod stroke ratio a a6 is more likely to blow apart at 8500 because its a stroked d15

i dont want vtec, its done way to much, everyone with a ef usually does 2 things dohc vtec or sohc vtec hardly anyone does sohc non vtec n/a

Jenkinsal2

the only way you are going to get there is by upping the compression considerably. Check out d-series.org for some good tips there are a few b2 builds on there. I would start by figuring out your OBD0/1 issues and go from there though. 160whp is attainable but you are going to be throwing a good amount of money towards that goal. good luck.