atarigamer01

I bought a digital multimeter to check the voltage on my car because I sensed the sluggishness was due to electrical problems. Head gasket, timing belt, water pump, piston rings, and thermostat were all changed earlier this year. With the car off, not running the voltage on the battery is a little over 13 volts, which I think is normal. But when I tested the injectors (touching the positive to battery and the ground to the middle of the injector) they were all different readings. From left to right it was .98, 0.17, 0.04, and 4.36...!? I tested the connectors to the injectors and they were all 13.00, 12.89 on each injector. So I'm left to conclude that maybe my lack of power problem is because of this, but I need a second opinion. I didn't notice any corrosion either. I cant seem to get past 4 or 5k rpms. Getting to 70 is a struggle it seems like for the engine, so I usually go as slow as possible. Any help is appreciated.

thesmogman

You need to check how to test them. Look for a manual or something because you are not doing it right.

I believe you test them for resistance not voltage.

How the system works is power is always applied to the injectors(With the engine running), it is the ground side that the ECU switches on and off to make them work.

I would check your cap/rotor for wear/corrosion and then your timing before checking the injectors. You can also check the resistance of the coil while you have it apart.

You mentioned T-stat did you make sure you connected the grounds and make sure they are clean.

atarigamer01

Im curious then why the different readings on each injector? My timing is fine, my cap and rotor seem fine, no cracks, no corrosion. Like I said, I tested the wiring and connectors and they read the same voltage as the battery. Don't the injectors need the same voltage to work correctly?

thesmogman

When you apply power from the battery and ground the injector you complete the circut and the voltage should go to near 0v. The reason is... the injector is opening when you do this and it is using the voltage to create the magnetic field to open it.

With the car on but not running check your voltages again, this time hook the pos of the VM to the pos of the connector with the connector unplugged. then hook the neg of the VM to the neg of the batt. This will check your input voltages. This might be the way you got those 13v+ voltages.

Going by your first post it seems like you have three pins on each connector which is odd for a honda. Can you post a pic of the connector and the injector and I will do a little research for you.

Sorry if I over simplified this for you I never know what level you people are on.

-Trinitron-

I think you are right smogman. Testing the voltage from each injector with the car off is like tasting the toilet water before you **** in it.
In the manual, it directs you step by step how to check the injectors. I am fairly certain all tests are done with the car running as well. I will post the instructions when I get home if I remember. Let us know what you come up with. Good luck either way!!

atarigamer01

I appreciate that, I'm really concerned about my cars performance. I'll try looking for the procedure to do it right. If you have any info on a step by step way to check I'd like to see it.

atarigamer01

No, theres not 3 pins on each connector, sorry if I confused you. Not really sure what you're referring to. Each injector was getting a voltage amount of 0.98, 0.17, 0.04, and 4.36, with the car off. Im just curious why there different.

thesmogman

But when I tested the injectors (touching the positive to battery and the ground to the middle of the injector) they were all different readings. From left to right it was .98, 0.17, 0.04, and 4.36...!? I tested the connectors to the injectors and they were all 13.00, 12.89 on each injector.

I think this is where we are confused. Are you backprobing the connector? The ground is what the ECU grounds out to open the injector. If the ecu is not on then there should be no voltage because the circut is open/off. unless you are getting residual voltage from a cap or something.

How the book tells us how to check the injector is resistance. With the injector's unplugged there are two pins, put one of the voltmeters leads on one and one on the other and use the "horseshoe" setting. The resistances should all be close to the same. You should be around the .25 range.

Have you checked out your MAP and TPS voltages. Both of these can lead to your sluggish performance too.

atarigamer01

I haven't checked the map and tps voltage yet. I really don't know what I'm doing lol Im just kind of learning as I go. I just hope I can figure this out or else I just want to take it to a professional. There is a shop nearby that fixed some electrical problem with my eg before I crashed it a while back. So maybe Ill take it there.

thesmogman

I'll help you check them, I need to know what motor and year it is so I can get you the info or we can search. All you need is a voltmeter and some sort of a pin. (Like a safety pin)

Let me know if you wanna at least check these.

efjones9

i agree the injectors are resistors so switch ur dmm to olms and u should get diffrent readings depending on which kind of injectors u have

dacrxguy

tell us what the reading gives you and tell us your car mechanical info if swapped tell us which moter obd etc sorry for the crappy pic

atarigamer01

I understand the pic, I have a 88 civic hatch std, and I swapped in a d15b vtec using a p28 ecu. Not getting any cel or smoke or anything, its just slow. As far as I know the engine should be running fine, but its just really slow to accelerate. I did the swap back in january or february and it only performed really good after I first put the motor in. Later the same day I went to drive it and that power was gone and I have no idea why.

efjones9

is ur clutch slipping??

atarigamer01

Im not really sure if its slipping or not. Im still using my same 4spd manual tranny from my old motor. I know its shitty, but I never had a problem with it before ie no funny sounds, I've never stalled out on it. Its a cable tranny, how tight does the cable have to be on the tranny? I don't mean the throttle body cable either just to let you know, thats pretty tight. Idling at 1K rpms. I noticed when Im driving also the needle on the mph gauge bounces a little while accelerating. Other than that it idles pretty smooth.

Heres a video I made of the rpms; I know it may be unrelated but when I was trying to get to high rpms it just didnt want to let me. Here it is : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P09LgOoOnXw

dacrxguy

dont be bummed this will get figured out ok it sounds like your motor is being cut off by the ecu due to a cel you say your cel isnt on but i think it is the best way to check to check if your cel is functioning is to disconnect a vital sensor like map and see if your light is functioning if your light is functioning it will get a cel as soon as you disconnect your map sensor and since you installed a new cluste(really nice may i ask more info about it) you may have not wired it right

atarigamer01

Im pretty sure the cel functions properly. I had my wiring harness done from rywire. They left two wires that you connect to get a cel code, but not getting any codes. The best thing I can think of is to ask my neighbor across the street from me. He works with cars a lot, and has a lot of cars that are projects.

I dont have the s2k gauge in, I'm still just using the stock one. I bought it on ebay with the wiring, I had to get it. I just wanted to see it work, but for now its out.