brake pedal travel only when driven for more than 1 hour

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Old 05-21-2007, 04:09 PM
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Default brake pedal travel only when driven for more than 1 hour

my brakes seem to be fine most of the time, but when i drive it for a longer period of time then normal, the pedal goes to the floor, then I pump it to regain pressure.

what could be the problem to make it do this?

88 crx si by the way
Old 05-21-2007, 04:43 PM
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sounds like a bad master cylinder
Old 05-21-2007, 05:03 PM
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Default Re: (higgunscrx)

its more than likely just air in your lines. or you're prob rolling around with brake fluid that looks like Folgers made it.

brake fluid is great at absorbing moisture. that moisture turns into gas with enough heat, like the heat created while driving the car for awhile.

go to a shop and get a full flush of your fluid if you dont have the tools yourself. i bet your pedal wont sink anymore, if it does, well sux because you have a bad master cylinder.

good luck
Old 05-21-2007, 05:24 PM
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Default Re: (higgunscrx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by higgunscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bad master cylinder </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2
Old 05-21-2007, 07:12 PM
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yea its all brown and stuff. well what do I need to fluch the lines?
Old 05-21-2007, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: (msinsky14)

change the mc while you're at it.
Old 05-21-2007, 07:31 PM
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Default Re: (Kafelatte)

figure out the ******* problem before you start changing out parts. why change out a good master cylinder?

coffee-like fluid means its contaminated and more than likely full of moisture. moisture exposed to enough heat is turned into a gas. a gas consist of air, hence the sinking pedal.

if you have a compressor at home, get a hold of a "Vacula." suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir, clean it and the filter with brake cleaner.

put a whole 32 oz bottle of new brake fluid upside down into the reservoir. jack up the car, and start from the right rear, connect the vacula and open the bleeder screw. suck on the line for about a minute. close the screw. head over to the left rear, then right from, then lastly, the left front.

repeat until clear fluid comes out of every wheel cylinder. to be safe, pump bleed each wheel one more time and you are done.

make sure your rotors, pads, drums and shoes are all in good condition. if they are, the brakes should feel like new.

oh yeah, remove bottle, re-insert filter and put the cap back on.
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