CRX7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put a new MC in my hatch and didn't bench bleed, but i bled the heck out of the lines at each wheel. the pedal feels very firm. i believe the point of bench bleeding is so you don't have to bleed at each wheel, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't properly bench bleed mine and could never get all the air out of it until I took it back off and bench bled it again.

PINKS

Cmon, gotta be a detailed writeup somewhere

Time to bench bleed some vagina

PINKS

sierrakilo

Here's what I did when I replaced mine, got it from AutoZone, it came with a bleed kit, which is nothing more than a couple lenghts of clear tubing, some plastic screw on fitting caps, and some plastic caps for the tubes:

Put the MC in a bench vice (use wood blocks or something else like it) to clamp it. Put a pan under it to catch fluid that will drip out and mess up your bench.

Fill the bleed kit lines (or whatever you're using) with fluid and cap/clamp off the ends (kinda like what you do with a straw, you can hold your finger over the end to keep the fluid from running out), then connect them to the ports on the MC.
Fill the reservoir with fluid.

Holding the ends of the lines higher than the reservoir, remove the caps from the bleed lines and slowly push some fluid from the MC into the bleed line until all the air is out of the bleed line, then submerge them in the reservoir. Slowly release the MC rod, this will pull fluid from the reservoir into the line keeping them filled with fluid.

Repeat the above step/process until you get all the bubbles out. It helps to lightly tap on the MC while its in the vice to help dislodge the air from inside the MC.

Takes about 15 minutes if you go slow.

When you get all the bubbles out of the MC, leave the capped/clamped off bleed lines connected to the MC, take it to the car and mount it into the booster. Put some paper towels under it, you will loose some fluid as you connect the lines.

Fill the reservoir before you disconnect a bleed line, then quickly connect the brake lines one at a time.

You will need to then bleed the entire system at all four corners, starting with the caliper/drum that's furthest away from the MC.

The entire process takes about 30 minutes with the help of a friend on the brake pedal.

Hope this helps.

sk

civicandy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I didn't properly bench bleed mine and could never get all the air out of it until I took it back off and bench bled it again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i bleed the **** out if of the system by doing it at each wheel and the brakes feel great. i think it just takes more time to do it that way. next time i'll bench bleed it

BoostedEF

I dont think anybody answered his question about getting the adjustment tool so bump cause Im doing this next weekend & I want to know

sierrakilo

I think most people who have done the MC repair have done so without the 'special adjustment tool'... I don't have that shop manual, so I can't comment on what exactly its for or how its used, but the procedure I posted should work just fine.

civicandy

i've done it twice and never used a special tool. just make sure you use a flare nut wrench on the brake line fittings

CRX7

You don't need any special adjustment tool or feeler guage or vacuum pump.