tylerdurden

Well, my new rotors and pads will be going on Saturday, and I have a few questions. First, isn't there some kind of lube you should use on the front and back of the pads to keep them from squealing? My pads didn't come with any.

Also, I've heard that you should open the MC cap when you push the piston back in, but others have said it isn't necessary. Who's right? Anyone have any random tips before I do this?

XEF-9X

ok 2 things u can get.....brake part cleaner and then brake part sqeuak stopper as well. u can get both at ur local parts store. fyi when i did my pads i never used the sqeuak stuff just sprayed it all with the cleaner.

keithv

ok what you need is called "anti squeal". and you put it only on the back of the pads. its a gel so you don't want it on the front of the pad as your car won't stop very quickly.


i have done it both ways. neither way seemed any better than the other. just make sure your MC isn't overfull as it might overflow when you push the piston back in.

if you live in a snowy area, you will most likely need an impact driver to get the tiny rotor screws off. this has been discussed in length before so if you have questions about this, please search.

tylerdurden

You can get this anti-squeal lube at any auto supply store? I heard the lube gets burned off quickly so its okay to put it on the front too, but I won't now.

Also, I know there is a special tool to push the piston back in, but I can do it by hand as well, yes?

keithv

yes you should be able to. i get it at autozone for like $1. it comes in a package the size of a handy wipe. i think they have some bigger packages, but the small one if fine for one time use.


i have taken off pads after a few thousand miles and the antisqueal gel is still on the pads. this isn't a fricton surface, but still. i have always been told to not put anything on the friction side of the pad.


a 4" c-clamp works wonders in the front. the rears (if you have discs) must be spun to retract. i use a big screwdriver for that.


if you have more questions just keep posting them here. i have done brakes enough to answer most of your questions. and work is dead, so you got my services available for another 1.5 hours.

jc836

First-DO NOT put any of the anti-=squeal on the front of the pads PERIOD. Only put it on the metal back part. You also need some anti-seize for the pins. Go to Sears and buy yourself an Impact screwdriver kit-well worth the $25 to have it. The retaining screws for the rotors use a #3 Phillips bit.

I agree that you need to liberally clean everything. Once all the old parts are off-except the inner pads, take a pair of Channellock pliers and squeeze the piston back into the caliper. You do not have to fully remove the MC cap-but have some rags around and under it. Also have a fresh container of brake fluid just in case you need to add some. Follow the directions for the anti-squeal and install the pads in the calipers and bolt them on having already put the new rotors on <G>. Reclean everything, except the back of the pads.

Last but very important is how you "bed" the pads in to the rotors. I do 3 series of 3 40-0 stops in the course of several miles worht of traffic lights and let the brakes cool a bit and do it again. Be gentle for the first 100-200 miles and all will be good.

tylerdurden

What pins are you talking about? The pad retaining clips? Is anti-seize also available at auto supply stores?

keithv

when you flip the caliper up, there is a pin that hold is to the caliper bracket. that is the slide pin jc836 is talking about.

4drEF

Why would you want to do this? The pad to rotor friction is what stops you. Normally, the anti-squeal stuff comes in a little bottle or a really small tube and is blue in color. You apply it to the back of the pad where it makes contact with the brake piston and the caliper. It's job is not to GLUE the pad to the brake, but rather to prevent vibration. Vibration translates to squeal and squeaks.