i just replaced my rear brake pads cause i was squeaking and they were shot, its is now squeaking again when i brake. And i was driving tonite and it started squeaking when i want even breaking...? im confused how to fix thanx

 

did you lube the pads up ? sometimes you just need to break them in for a couple weeks to stop all that **** and get the manufacturers **** off the pad itself.

 

na i didnt, guess i should do that....any other suggestions...thanx

 

um, just lube up the back of the pad where the clips go. other then that. try them for about 2-3 weeks to see if they get any better. Really, the only other thing to suggest period is to replace or resurface the rotors and get brand new pads. good luck

 

did you install the anti squeal shims. You gotta transfer them from the old pads.

EDIT:there is also anti squeal lube as well as a brake shoe toe alignment thing. I just did mine.

 

I assume that this squeaking is periodic with the tire rotation (squeak-pause-squeak-pause...). Did you check the rotor runout? Integra rear rotors are notorious for getting corrosion and/or debris between the rear hubs and the rotor. If you have runout, clean the hub face and the inside of the rotor.

If you don't have the dial indicators to check the runout properly, you can remove the rear wheels and rotate the hubs while watching the clearance between the pads and rotor. Get some washers (or open ended lug nuts) to fit over the lugs and install the lug nuts to do this properly.

 

aight cool, thanx guys, i did spray the anti-squeak stuff on the back of the pads when i installed them, the shims are alos there....so it either needs lube or resurfaced/new rotor....gotcha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebonyrolla7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aight cool, thanx guys, i did spray the anti-squeak stuff on the back of the pads when i installed them, the shims are alos there....so it either needs lube or resurfaced/new rotor....gotcha</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your rotor could be perfectly fine and stilll have runout if the hub interface is not clean.

 

rotor runout will not usually cause the brakes to squeek. it will cause oscillation in the steering wheel if there is runout on the front discs. on the rear discs if there is runout you will feel the brake pedal pulsate while braking. most likely.

if the rotors are below minimum service spec(if they've been cut too many times) or if there is a SIGNIFICANT amount of parallelism as to where parts of the rotor fall below service spec, the rotors will heat up faster than normal because now there is alot more pressure on the rotor because it was weakened from resurfacing. The rotors will then develop a bluish tint and look like mirrors. When that happens, thats usually the only time you will get a squeek from the rotor.

Aftermarket brake pads(non-honda) ..will squeek. And are more susceptible to cracking..


more than likely..

1. you purchased non-honda brake pads
2. no anti-squeel grease on the back of the pad/shims
3. no grease in the pad holders
4. glazed/mirror like rotors.(from overheating)

narrow them 4 down to find your problem.

or just take it to the dealer and let someone like me fix it ;P

 

My rears squeaked due to runout when the brakes were not applied due to intermittant contact. I had no pedal vibration when braking. Cleaning the hub face of corrosion fixed the runout and the noise.

 

theres no way cleaning the hub surface will cure a squeek. Rust on the hub surface will only cause a pulsation. Simply because of the fact that the wheel itself would not be bolted flush to the hub.

Rust on the brake disc itself usually develops on the outer edge of the disc. As the rotor spins it will not squeek if there is intermittant contact. It will be more of a grinding noise. Only way to cure that..is again RESURFACING the brake disc.

or if your a tommy flyby jack of all trades DIY guy...you'll take some sandpaper to the outside lip of the rotor to remove the rust contacting the pad as the wheels spin.

i dont recommend doing that technique at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres no way cleaning the hub surface will cure a squeek. Rust on the hub surface will only cause a pulsation. Simply because of the fact that the wheel itself would not be bolted flush to the hub.

Rust on the brake disc itself usually develops on the outer edge of the disc. As the rotor spins it will not squeek if there is intermittant contact. It will be more of a grinding noise. Only way to cure that..is again RESURFACING the brake disc.

or if your a tommy flyby jack of all trades DIY guy...you'll take some sandpaper to the outside lip of the rotor to remove the rust contacting the pad as the wheels spin.

i dont recommend doing that technique at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My car is the only data point that is needed to refute this claim.

My rear rotors had runout due to corrosion and scale on the face of my hub. The rotors (Brembo) and pads (Hawk HPS) were brand new. The brakes primarily swished when driving due to the intermittent contact caused by the runout. When I applied light braking pressure, they would squeak (perhaps you are confusing this with squealing) with the same periodicity as the wheel rotation. This squeaking and runout problem was cured by cleaning the hub face with a file to remove the scale and allowing the rotors to sit flush. I used a file because it ensured that the flatness of the hub face would be maintained.

BTW: I would never resurface a brake disk, as I do not like thermal warping and the subsequent severe pulsation under heavy braking. Rotors are cheap, body work is not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My car is the only data point that is needed to refute this claim.

My rear rotors had runout due to corrosion and scale on the face of my hub. The rotors (Brembo) and pads (Hawk HPS) were brand new. The brakes primarily swished when driving due to the intermittent contact caused by the runout. When I applied light braking pressure, they would squeak (perhaps you are confusing this with squealing) with the same periodicity as the wheel rotation. This squeaking and runout problem was cured by cleaning the hub face with a file to remove the scale and allowing the rotors to sit flush. I used a file because it ensured that the flatness of the hub face would be maintained.

BTW: I would never resurface a brake disk, as I do not like thermal warping and the subsequent severe pulsation under heavy braking. Rotors are cheap, body work is not.</TD></TR></TABLE>


your "claim" makes absolutely no sense. but hey buddy if it worked for you then god bless ya!

And ...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW: I would never resurface a brake disk, as I do not like thermal warping and the subsequent severe pulsation under heavy braking. Rotors are cheap, body work is not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

resurfacing the rotor eliminates pedal pulsation and overall ELMINATES RUNOUT. HONDA states whenever replacing rotors they must be resurfaced TWICE before installing on the car.. a rough cuts and a fine cut.

wherever your getting your information from is totally wrong. i'd rather buy rotors for 200+ dollars and get 60-70k miles out of them instead of replacing everytime.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


your "claim" makes absolutely no sense. but hey buddy if it worked for you then god bless ya!

And ...


resurfacing the rotor eliminates pedal pulsation and overall ELMINATES RUNOUT. HONDA states whenever replacing rotors they must be resurfaced TWICE before installing on the car.. a rough cuts and a fine cut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Resurfaceing a rotor will eliminate runout only if the rotor is the source of the runout. (We'll get to rotor runout and warping in a minute.) You could have a perfect rotor and it will still display runout if the hub surface is not flat due to corrosion or other imperfections. Honda states that a new rotor should be resurfaced only if the indicated runout is greater than 0.01mm. (1996 Integra Helm Manual Page 19-9). Honda also states that you should clean the mating surface of the wheel hub and the brake rotor before reassembly (1996 Integra Helm Manual Page 18-15). My runout was due to hub corrosion and was fixed by cleaning the hub. What is there to not understand?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wherever your getting your information from is totally wrong. i'd rather buy rotors for 200+ dollars and get 60-70k miles out of them instead of replacing everytime.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's use a 90-01 non-ITR Integra front rotor for an example. The new rotor has a thickness of 21mm. You can refinish the rotor down to 19mm, leaving you with a rotor that is only 90% as thick as the original. (Please note that this is conservative, because the cutting is from the solid rotor surface and the venting consumes a constant thickness.) Answer this: which rotor will overheat first and cause brake fade? A new front Brembo blank rotor is $35 and can be swapped in my garage. Cutting a rotor is $12 and requires that I first remove it, find another car to drive to the auto parts, and wait for the rotor to be cut. I'll err on the side of safety regarding brakes and tires every time.

BTW: brake rotors do not warp. I'll go with StopTech on this one.

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Resurfaceing a rotor will eliminate runout only if the rotor is the source of the runout. (We'll get to rotor runout and warping in a minute.) You could have a perfect rotor and it will still display runout if the hub surface is not flat due to corrosion or other imperfections.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok your really contradicting yourself here. How would you know that the hub rust is giving you rotor runout if #1..your rotor was never on an actual electronic brake lathe?
thats like saying a wheel is not balanced correctly without putting it on a balancer to tell you its out of balance.....
Hub rust is never a concern of mine simply because of the fact that whenever you resurface a rotor, you ALWAYS clean off the hub, so it sits flush on the lathe and it cuts correctly to prevent any kind of parallelism in the brake disc itself..

The hub of the rotor sits flush on the wheel and is not exposed to any freely rotating materials because the wheels sits flush against it.

So again..tell me how HUB RUST is making your brakes swish?
If someone is concerned with developing runout in their rotors..i'd be 100x's more concerned about my lugnuts being torqued to 80ft lbs of tourqe as opposed to HUB RUST.. which will only cause a rotor to score.

i think your reading too much into service manuals without the actual proper training on how to diagnose/fix these cars. Please do not tell me how cars work. I very well know how they work. That's why average people pay people like me to fix their cars for them..The right way..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Let's use a 90-01 non-ITR Integra front rotor for an example. The new rotor has a thickness of 21mm. You can refinish the rotor down to 19mm, leaving you with a rotor that is only 90% as thick as the original. (Please note that this is conservative, because the cutting is from the solid rotor surface and the venting consumes a constant thickness.) Answer this: which rotor will overheat first and cause brake fade? A new front Brembo blank rotor is $35 and can be swapped in my garage. Cutting a rotor is $12 and requires that I first remove it, find another car to drive to the auto parts, and wait for the rotor to be cut. I'll err on the side of safety regarding brakes and tires every time.

BTW: brake rotors do not warp. I'll go with StopTech on this one.

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all..when you resurface a rotor...MR. TEACHER..
Your taking THOUSANDTHS of a MILLIMETER when you resurface.. NOT MILLIMETERS AT A TIME!

And i will go with Honda OEM Rotors/Pads ANY GIVEN DAY OVER ANY OTHER PRODUCT to prevent against brake fade and heat dissipation..

Want to know why?

Thats what was MADE for THAT PARTICULAR CAR!
Not some cheap knockoff crap you buy.

When you resurface a rotor, your not taking away any integrity of the rotor or putting yourself in any harms way until you've exceeded the service limit.

That's why you pay for a GOOD QUALITY OEM BRAKE DISC.. and resurface it 3 or 4 times depending on how harsh of a driver

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok your really contradicting yourself here. How would you know that the hub rust is giving you rotor runout if #1..your rotor was never on an actual electronic brake lathe?
thats like saying a wheel is not balanced correctly without putting it on a balancer to tell you its out of balance.....
Hub rust is never a concern of mine simply because of the fact that whenever you resurface a rotor, you ALWAYS clean off the hub, so it sits flush on the lathe and it cuts correctly to prevent any kind of parallelism in the brake disc itself.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you really think that your brake lathe is superior to the manufacturing lathes at Brembo? It was quite easy to diagnose, as the hub face had visible corrosion and a displayed gaps beneath a straight edge.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The hub of the rotor sits flush on the wheel and is not exposed to any freely rotating materials because the wheels sits flush against it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no idea what you are trying to say here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So again..tell me how HUB RUST is making your brakes swish?
If someone is concerned with developing runout in their rotors..i'd be 100x's more concerned about my lugnuts being torqued to 80ft lbs of tourqe as opposed to HUB RUST.. which will only cause a rotor to score.

i think your reading too much into service manuals without the actual proper training on how to diagnose/fix these cars. Please do not tell me how cars work. I very well know how they work. That's why average people pay people like me to fix their cars for them..The right way..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be brutally honest, I have been working on cars in depth longer than you have been alive. Indulge my hypothetical situation: what would happen if you installed a washer onto one of the lugs between the hub and the rotor? Would the rotor appear to have runout? This is analogous to having corrosion and scale on the wheel hub face between the rotor and the hub.

 

NOO! it would not appear to have runout because your testing runout with a dial indacator with the WHEEL OFF THE CAR!

HOW DOES THAT PROMOTE A SWISHING OR SQUEEKING SOUND?

Do you think brembo's rotors are anywhere near as higher quality than the OEM rotors that come on the car from HONDA MANUFACTURING LATHES? Especially ones that you buy for 35$?

We recieve Honda Reccomended special tools in our shop..thats all we use..

 

i understand your trying to be indepth. but alot of things you are saying seems to be copied right from a book with you not knowing the real meaning or understanding..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOO! it would not appear to have runout because your testing runout with a dial indacator with the WHEEL OFF THE CAR!

HOW DOES THAT PROMOTE A SWISHING OR SQUEEKING SOUND?

Do you think brembo's rotors are anywhere near as higher quality than the OEM rotors that come on the car from HONDA MANUFACTURING LATHES? Especially ones that you buy for 35$?

We recieve Honda Reccomended special tools in our shop..thats all we use..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I test the rotor runout of my brake system with the lugnuts installed and properly torqued to 80lb-ft. How do you test yours?

Swishing an squeeking can be caused by apparent brake rotor runout due to the brake system geometry. A wobbling rotor can have the same effect as brake knockback on the caliper, where the wobbling rotor spreads the caliper. The caliper will spread only enough to clear the maximum interference with the rotor. Therefore, the rotor contacts the pads at only two points during a revolution and can cause periodic swishing or squealing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand your trying to be indepth. but alot of things you are saying seems to be copied right from a book with you not knowing the real meaning or understanding..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hold a PhD in engineering. I understand the geometry of a brake system.

 

Look dude..

im tired of going back and forth with this.
no amount of rust on the hub will cause your brakes to squeek or swish.
If the rotor screws are not tight, i could see the rotor wobbling beyond recognition between the pads intermittantly contacting the holders in the caliper.
I could see that.

The most LIKELY situation.. you had rust on the outer lip of your rotor contacting the edge of the holders intermittantly. Causing a swish noise..

im done with this..
i think im right.
you think your right..
whatever. i only work on these cars every single day of my life except sundays and attend honda training modules 1 week every year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look dude..

im tired of going back and forth with this.
no amount of rust on the hub will cause your brakes to squeek or swish.
If the rotor screws are not tight, i could see the rotor wobbling beyond recognition between the pads intermittantly contacting the holders in the caliper.
I could see that.

The most LIKELY situation.. you had rust on the outer lip of your rotor contacting the edge of the holders intermittantly. Causing a swish noise..

im done with this..
i think im right.
you think your right..
whatever. i only work on these cars every single day of my life except sundays and attend honda training modules 1 week every year.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rotors were brand new. My approach cured the problem. That is plain and simple. I stand by my initial point, rear 94-01 Integra hubs tend to accumulate corrosion between the hub face and the brake rotor. You could have turned the rotor on a brake lathe 100 times and the system would have still had runout because the rotor was not at fault.

Now you know why I work on my own car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The rotors were brand new. My approach cured the problem. That is plain and simple. I stand by my initial point, rear 94-01 Integra hubs tend to accumulate corrosion between the hub face and the brake rotor. You could have turned the rotor on a brake lathe 100 times and the system would have still had runout because the rotor was not at fault.

Now you know why I work on my own car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA!. I didnt know that it was a brand new rotor you had..

ok. man, if you've replaced rotors for such a long time then you'd know that every time you replace rotors/pads they will swish!

I thought you were talking about having the rotors on for a while then all of the sudden you get a swish noise.

The intermittant contact you were hearing is the brand new "brembo" rotor and the pad which im assuming was also brand new. Im also assuming the brand new brembo rotor was never resurfaced before installing. The exact reason Honda tells you to resurface the rotor before installing on the car.

Customers complain of the swishing sound and think they're car isnt fixed right. But the rotors and pads have to be heated up in order to remove the rough surface it comes with from the factory. The UNREFINISHED rotor surface and the new pad WAS the INTERMITTANT CONTACT you were hearing.. WHICH IS NORMAL OPERATION of a NEW unfinished rotor being put on a car.

As you've noticed with your swishing problem. You thought you fixed your car, well you did fix it, but not the way you think. A hard test drive to heat the new brake pad and new rotor will cure your swishing sound. Try it next time you replace a rotor and pad at the same time. You'll see the im right.

now we're understanding..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

HAHA!. I didnt know that it was a brand new rotor you had..

ok. man, if you've replaced rotors for such a long time then you'd know that every time you replace rotors/pads they will swish!

I thought you were talking about having the rotors on for a while then all of the sudden you get a swish noise.

The intermittant contact you were hearing is the brand new "brembo" rotor and the pad which im assuming was also brand new. Im also assuming the brand new brembo rotor was never resurfaced before installing. The exact reason Honda tells you to resurface the rotor before installing on the car.

Customers complain of the swishing sound and think they're car isnt fixed right. But the rotors and pads have to be heated up in order to remove the rough surface it comes with from the factory. The UNREFINISHED rotor surface and the new pad WAS the INTERMITTANT CONTACT you were hearing.. WHICH IS NORMAL OPERATION of a NEW unfinished rotor being put on a car.

As you've noticed with your swishing problem. You thought you fixed your car, well you did fix it, but not the way you think. A hard test drive to heat the new brake pad and new rotor will cure your swishing sound. Try it next time you replace a rotor and pad at the same time. You'll see the im right.

now we're understanding.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you assume that I know nothing?

I know that a new rotor/pad combination will make noise as the asperities wear away (mmm... tribology). This swishing and squeaking noises did not go away even after bedding my pads according to Stoptech's recommendation, which led me to diagnose the hub corrosion. I bedded my pads by performing ten, rapid-succession consecutive stops from 60MPH. Much smoke was generated.

I reiterate, the rotor runout as a result of corrosion on the hub face caused my noise problem.