nicknack25

Alright i have a 90 crx with integra front brakes and crx rear discs with the 4040 prop valve and integra MC and booster. I was using old brakes and rotors all around until i decided to change them today to ceramic brake pads.

Before i changed em, rotors were warped so steering wheel would shake but i would still be able to stop pretty well. After i changed just the front brakes, it was hard for me to stop. I followed http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm to bed in my brakes but i wouldn't be able to stop very hard so i went back home to bleed my brakes and i was using the vacuum pump bleeder. So i was bleeding the driver side rear first and after about 10-20 times of letting the bottle get full, emptying it and bleeding again, air bubbles would still come out and i mean A LOT. So i decided to move to the passenger front. Again Even more air bubbles. Wouldn't be able to hold pressure so i had to keep pumping. When i tried closing the bleeder valve, pressure would hold but i could still see air leaks coming from the bleeder valve inside the clear tube.

So now i gave up because it took me about 2 hours trying to bleed this sh** and i was only on the second wheel.

It leaks from 1 or 2 lines on the prop valve and i can't get it to stop. tightened it many times but nothing. im guessing its damaged on the inside..

So does anyone know how to stop the leaks? I'm guessing the air bubbles wouldn't stop coming because of the leaks but i was able to stop pretty well before changing the front brakes?

Sorry for the long post, just tried getting all the info out there.

TheOdditie

I thought the order to bleed them was RR, LR, RF, LF. All vehicles you want to start at the one furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. That is the normal order, there are a few odd ***** here and there that go in a different order.

nicknack25

I used to do it that way, but i did more research and found out the service manual says LR, RF, RR, LF

festivagt

ANY leaks in the system at all will cause exactly what you are experiencing. Your proportioning valve is either not connected right or you have some dirt caught in between the line and where the LINE(conical parts) meets with the valve. make sure EVERYTHING IS CLEAN. a TINY SPECK OF TRASH IN BETWEEN WILL ALLOW AIR TO ENTER THE SYSTEM. Most of the time you need to crank down on brake fittings to make sure they are good.

nicknack25

Thanks for this info. earlier today, i took the lines that were leaking out of the prop valve to inspect and clean it. There was some material from the hard line itself inside of the prop valve where the hard line sits. I guess its the paint from the hard line? Wasn't sure but i cleaned it up best i could but it still leaks but not a lot.

What would the best way to clean out the prop valve? i blew in some compressed air in to take the stuff out cause i couldn't really get in there.

nicknack25

Also, both driver and passenger side bleeder valves both leak even when closed. I took the bleeder valve off the caliper, cleaned the valve and where the valve sits, even sprayed inside the bleeder valve with brake clean but it still leaked. I just ordered 2 new ones from oreilys and its coming in tomorrow morning.

Has anyone ever had a bad bleeder valve like this?

grog

I had an odd bleeder valve that would leak when the little rubber cap was on, but if I took it off it was fine. That one stumped me. anyway I didn't replace it I just left the cap off.

One thing to think about when bleeding brakes is to get a good seal on the tubing you use to bleed with. If it leaks from that point you're likely to see lots of bubbles that aren't coming from your brake line. But it does sound like you have some leaks.

Also dont ceramic pads take a while to heat up and work?

It sounds like either the line at the prop valve or the prop valve itself are at fault.

BCGARAGE_ED7

I have the manual right in front of me and it's driver side front, passenger side rear, passenger side front, driver side rear.


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Tyson

bleed order really doesnt matter.

Tyson

you need to replace steering components, specifically the rack end bushing. and probably tie rod balljoints.



dont use a vacuum pump. the air youre seeing is being pulled in thru the threads of the bleed screw. youll never really bleed it properly with a hand pump.

just do it right.

find a 2nd warm body with at least 1 good leg, a friend, a stranger, a mom, whoever, and have them push the pedal on command. thats the most effective way of bleeding.

EFnCRX

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Bleeding brakes shouldn't be rocket science lol

skill178

2 people, bleeder pumps suck, and the bleeding order isn't a very big deal but as far as the order as long as you do the rear before the connected front,

(RR,LF-LR,RF) will be exactly the same as bleeding (RR,LR,RF,LF) the system splits diagonally and the RR and LR are not connected together same has the RF and LF are not,

just do the back brakes first and your fine and just make sure everything is spot less