91efbluehatch

OK. heres the rundown since last night.
replaced an ecu ground/ grounded it to stock location on firewall using a better connector instead of just the wire.

i didnt have a trans to chassis ground, so i ran that and got rid of the VC to core support ground.

got in the car, cranked it, and it immediately went to 3k and started bouncing as if in limp mode.

all my lights and everything work properly now

code 20? (ELD) code popped up so i replaced the underhood fusebox, and had the alternator tested.
that code went away.

today-
came home attempted to start it...put the key in, turn it, and hit the push button......nothing

so i hotwired the starter and this is what i am getting.



so i checked the CEL once again. getting codes 3,4,5 and 41
3 and 5 are map sensor.
4 is IACV, and 41 is primary o2 heater

i took the IACV off, switched the wires on the plug. got back in the car and tested for CEL and no codes? CEL stays on so im sure that the codes are cleared since i removed the battery and ecu fuse.

rd91sib18c5r

Have you tried to jump start it the battery could be low.

91efbluehatch

good point. i did have cables on it from my explorer and still the same result.

91efbluehatch

BUMP FOR MORE HELPPP!!!

starter engages and spins fine when hooked to battery. installed starter, got back in the car, pushed the button......nothing. the CEL, OIL and another light go dim when i push the button though


think it could be a ground?

91efbluehatch

what are the symptoms of a bad main relay??

crvtectim

A bad main will cause no fuel or spark.

Also, you def need the vc to core ground or a better one from the head to chassis.

Have you checked all fuses yet?

91efbluehatch

All fuses have been checked. nothing is blown or out of place.

will the main relay cause all this weird electrical mishaps now that i have the proper ground and the right amount of power to the ecu??

crvtectim

I wouldn't think so. But with proper power and ground you should be able to turn your ignition switch to on and crank the car at the starter simply by jumping across the power and ground. I've done this using a screwdriver before. Lol, ghetto but it did allow me to know for sure that the starter was capable. I believe it led me to replacing my ignition in car. The tumbler was worn to the point that it wasn't completing the 12v circuit needed to engage the starter.

91efbluehatch

That's why the car had a push button when I got it 3 yrs ago. Never had a problem with it. Before this whole ground issue I was daily driving the car after I got it running good

McGruber

Are you getting any spark?

91efbluehatch

i cant check. car wont crank over.
i was getting damn good spark the other nite

Spug

Probably not relevant, but why did you get rid of the valve cover ground when you put in the other ground?

It was there for a reason.

91efbluehatch

i never had a trans to chassis ground.
once i put the trans to chassis ground my instrumentation lights and everything was brighter.
i have added the VC ground.

starter will be tested tomorrow to see how it fairs.
if its bad. i will replace it. if it is fully operable, i know something is messed up between the ignition and the starter

TearSDMF89dx

it could be your push button alot of those are cheaply made and wear out after a while

91efbluehatch

No its not that because I have changed it out and starter still clicks

91efbluehatch

BUMP FOR AN UPDATE!!!

just came back from oriellys. BOTH of my starters passed with flying colors, and my battery was at a 59% charge. they charged it for me.

i brought the stuff home, slapped it on the car. and wired the push button up to the batter and straight to the starter and it still clicks!!!!!

I grounded out the yellow wire used for CEL codes and the light comes on and stays on until you remove the wire.


soooo.....bad ecu??

4drEF

Could be ECU... you did put it through hell with the bad ground.
But the CEL will also stay on when power to your ECU power isn't right.
Your engine should crank regardless of your ECU.
Sooo... back to checking fuses, power wires, and grounds.

If you have a spare set of jumper cables, clamp one to the -neg pole on the battery and the other to an ear on the distributor.
Then connect the other cable from the ear to a good chassis ground.
Then you will have really good grounds to work with for figuring this out.

TearSDMF89dx

^what he said

crvtectim

Yep, the 1st fuse I'd check is the 15A ECU fuse in the engine bay.

91efbluehatch

if that fuse was blown my dash lights, and fuel pump wouldnt prime.

91efbluehatch

i just dont understand it. i think im going to disconnect all the grounds and start over.
i have the power wire from the fusebox to the + terminal on the battery. and i have a cable from that that bolts down onto my starter.

i have my stock thermostat grounding location tightened down. no other wires to that. i have my trans to chassis, shock tower to battery and VC to core support.

91efbluehatch

Bump for some late nite advice.
Could my motor be locked up? I can turn the crank

EF4lyf3

your not getting enough power to the starter man. your wires are tiny going to the starter from the battery positive side...bigger wire, try 8 gauge going from the fuse box to the starter and fire her up...

91efbluehatch

i thought it was supposed to go fusebox>battery>starter