Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

Okay guys I've done search already and have good info but I'm dumb when it comes to wiring.


I've already made slots in the rivet of the 2 screws holding down the TPS and can unscrew it easily now. I also have a handy multimeter & know that it's suppose to read .45volts closed TB & 5volts with WOT TB.


My questions is, how do you test the TPS ?
a) does the car need to be running or just key on ignition II?
b) black probe of meter touches ground, what about the red probe?... where do I stick it into?
c) When testing, is the tps female plug on or off the tps?

Help - Charlie

cream4door

The ignition needs to be on. The plug needs to be on the TPS so you will need to back feed your leads in to the plug. You hook the negative lead to the ground and the positive lead to the signal wire. I don't remember the colors off the top of my head but if you have a solid five volts showing on your volt meter then your are on the constant wire not the signal wire. After you have that hooked up right you just open your TB and watch the voltage. If it is wrong then move the TPS until it is right. Hope this helps.....

uberEFtuner

With ignition on connect the meter to the center wire and ground. Then push on the gas pedal and hold it, it should be about 5 volts. And about .5 volts closed.

Crx Jimmy

It should not be more than .5 volts closed, mine was .49 closed , I think acceptable voltage is .45-.50 closed. dont worry about open voltage

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

thanks... one more questions....


the red probe is suppose to be pushed into the back of the "middle" wire of the plug...
BUT how do I get it to read?
I pushed in 3-4mm but did not want to go any deeper, fear of damaging the plug/wire.
Just push it in there until the meter starts reading?
(or should I splice it open or something)

Bunger

You have to push the probe to the point that it's touching bare wire, I normally push it in about an inch. While you're testing the closed voltage, you should also slowly open the TB and watch for dead spots in the TPS voltage. Best of luck!

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

"watch for dead spots"...

meaning as I open up the tb, watch the multimeter to see if it reads "0.00" if it does it's bad, if the meter keeps reading .45 (at close) and slowing goes up to 5v (at WOT) then the TPS is in good shape correct?

Bunger

Yup! Exactly! Make sure you have the probes connected well, so you aren't mistaking a probe not contacting with an actual dead spot.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

I had one on my gsr IM and a spare one I took off a old D15b IM.
Okay after the test... this is what I found

I tested both.
a) 0.01v closed & 1.35v @ WOT
b) 0.01v closed & 1.01v @ WOT

What are the odds that both are bad... hum....
I'll see if I can test out another one.


question:
A bad TPS will not always give CEL = T/F?
A bad TPS will randomly make the car bog/hesitate at low rpms/car speed = T/F?

fireant

In my recent experience, you are correct on both of the above... true, and true.

Here's how to get to the bottom of it. If your probes wont go in far enough, then put a paper clip in there and clamp your probe to the paper clip. There are even little alligator clamps made specifically for this with boots that fit over the probes.

Find a friend with a good stock TPS on the car that has never been touched and figure out how to get accurate measurements with your particular meter. Then you'll know if your procedure is the problem or not.

Once you've got a good signal going, then adjust it for the open and closed values you need by twisting the TPS slightly.

The important thing to do here is check the 'sweep' between the open and closed signals for a smooth transition. I actually had good open a closed readings on mine but the sweep was full of noise...sometimes up to 11v!

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

Great info.

My probe was short, even after pushing it all the way in.
I just ended up slightly unlooming it and slicing the wire to get a clear reading.
Next time I will try the paperclip trick.

This should be a sticky