EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

92 civic with B18c GT35r turbo.

Update (8/11): Starts great when cool (130F range and below), drives good for the most part (details below) but when the car is shut down it will not restart, only cranks strong, until the engine cools down again. Sounds like a main relay, its not.

I have fuel and spark.

If the coolant temp sensor is unplugged, the engine will restart without having to wait for the engine to cool. In addition, the car will also start if the TPS is unplugged (with the CTS still plugged in)

This may be a seperate problem but I want to add it in case it is reivant to this issue. When attempting to make a pull, my car will often times cut out around 5500 rpm and just bounce the RPMs like the engine is sitting on my 2 step, while other times I can make a full pull to redline. Other times the car will simply fall flat on its face near 4500 RPM and if you try to step on the car more, the throttle is unresponsive until RPMs drop a few hundred. Anything below 4000 RPM and i really have no issues.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance. Doug.

Former User

Resolder the main relay.

redm3turbo

had similar problem on an old crx....
replaced the main relay .....

fixed the problem.

$40 part....
and that was after a $500 trip to honda for them to replace my distributor (and not fix the problem)

thank god for honda-tech

EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

I thought that the engine wouldn't crank when it was a main relay?

Former User

The main relay has nothing to do with the starter or starter circuit.

EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

I took apart the main relay and checked for the cracked solders and they were fine. the relay clicks three times during the different ignition cycles.

any other ideas?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't trust a visual inspection. I would just go ahead and resolder it.

Former User

This^

hyperblu

Main relays are known to cause starting problems when the car is hot and alot of people take their relays everywhere they go so it can stay cool (if they're lazy)

EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

Resoldered. Still have the same issue.

Former User

Are you testing for voltage at the injector clips with the key in ON(II)? Do the IACV and O2 sensor clips get battery voltage?

EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

I am testing at injector clips in the on position. I have not checked voltage at or the o2 but I don't have a c.e.l. But I will check and post my results.

ej1b20b pshht

hey quick question i have a b20b boosted and it just start bogging out when i would hit boost then when i shut car off it didnt want to start unless i give it gas??? any thoughts

Former User

Please don't thread jack. Make your own thread.

ej1b20b pshht

i cant yet sorry just asking a question

Former User

Trial Users may create tech threads. Give it a shot.

EG6 Love

iTrader: (1)

When the coolant temp sensor is unplugged the car will start, plug it back in and I have a cranking no start again.

hyperblu

nevermind... wrong thread

Eugene5231

Eugene5231

Hi. i had similar issue....engine will cut when hot, and will not start until cooled down. my problem was the distributer, and had to replace it. try to test it, when the engine cuts out or will not start by rapping a cloth around the distributer and wetting it for a minute or two, if it start immediately, replace the distributer

wunfstgsr

Test the ECT sensor its very common to fail and give these symptom's.

If you have Hondata, plug in the ecu while the engine is cold and off and see what the sensor temp is reading. If the sensor shows a value that is incorrect there is the issue.\

The ICM inside the distributor will give the same symptoms as well so it could also be the ICM, I have used aftermarket ICM units with no issues in the past but of course OEM is best. Try a buddys and see if the issue goes away.

h0ndanoob

Check ECU. Had a similar problem and ECU was fried.