137

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=548668

enjoy engine just was fully rebuilt girlfriend she only has 10 thousand miles on her to date.

Evs-One

guaranteed my car will handle better than yours for the cost of 2 of your wheels

quik sol

thing i think is funny is people are talking about how bling bling it is to get a 5 lug and does nothing...when they do jdm bumper mods that cost a crap load and lips and all that kind of crap which makes it basicaly look the same, oye people need to think about there own cars before they comment.

Evs-One

In all honesty here.....

just about ALL of the parts you have listed, are overpriced and marginal.

It's not about spending the most money, it's about making everything work together and having a well balanced setup, and if you save money along the way, then even better.

Why the Teins, why the Carbing bars, etc. Know exactly WHY it is you are buying what you are buying.

If you explain to me why some standard issue Tein coilover system is best suited for your car, then I won't argue. If you can explain to my how you can justify spending 472 bucks on rotors that won't help you stop anymore than 50 dollar Brembo blanks, than cool.

I would like to see reasons why YOU chose what you did and why YOU think it will work best with YOUR car, instead of just spending the most money possible...cause you're not impresing anyone here. Maybe in the ITR forum

For example...I ditched my 15 inch Spoon wheels in favor for 14's....at the end of the day it's better than my car runs on 14's. Function over fashion, or is it the other way around

Props no mater what

1oo%Evil

What are with these wish list, I rather see post like, here is my suspension set-up.......

Looks more like a post about I want Bling and what do you guys think about it, and I don't care for your opinions though my post seems like I do.....weird......

I can on to Honda-Tech for this?

(teh)H2OUUP2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1oo%Evil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are with these wish list, I rather see post like, here is my suspension set-up.......

Looks more like a post about I want Bling and what do you guys think about it, and I don't care for your opinions though my post seems like I do.....weird......

I can on to Honda-Tech for this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Welcome to Honda-Tech, can't you tell what this is all about ? you really need to go to the appearance forum where the Questions are asked, what color do I paint my car and what wheels look good.....hehe.

Why leave these questions to other people?

And 137 there are some items on your list that you could get around without......i.e. 5 lug......just for bling......IMO

NINJASPY

expensive *** strut bar , can probably get a autopower bolt on for that much

expensive *** lug nutz , muteki, have you heard of them? check out the sponsor forum

expensive *** brake setup and axis metal masters get ultimates as bare minimum...

The Internet Tough Guy

waste of money. the stiffest springs the rear can take is 300 something. save and get those buddy club dampers with stiff *** spring rates; or consider the much praised koni / ground control setup. i got suckered into buying some teins, but they're just not worth it for the money. i'll be selling my ss for something better because i'm not satisfied with them, cosidering i paid $800 for them - the flex is not much better.

hell yes. definitely get this piece, i love it.

another waste of money. 300 bucks for a strut bar makes 0 sense, when a $100 oem bar will do the job just as well

again, you're delusional, you should rethink this one, better wheels come in 4 lug also. but go ahead and waste a grand. sorry, but you deserve this:

hahah. another waste of money. -4 lbs, blingin blue paint, and $30 poly bushings is not worth $200.

yay more worthless bling.



the performance of some $50 brembo blanks &gt;= $475 blingin rotors

you're second guessing spending $10 on good brake fluid but you won't even reconsider wasting thousands of dollars on useless crap? again,



then don't buy any of that **** above you don't need. i think you know you're wasting your money, you're just insisting on doing it for useless bragging rights. quit being stubborn, and buy parts that are more effective, and sometimes cheaper. but it's your money, have fun pissing it away.

well it looks like you have the money to throw away on three sets of wheels for $4000... a bit gluttonous in my eyes. i'll stick with my $400 rotas.

i've heard they're good tires.

how's the weather in never never land? you're still delusional: car parts are NOT an investment.

like emerika said, you need to figure out how all these parts work together instead of just thinking "i'll spend a ****-load of money so my car will be good". you don't always get what you pay for. i could build a better handling, stopping car for almost half of your budget and still get drunk when i was done . you need to sit down and rethink this, before you waste a bunch of money.

also, i think you're missing a few things: how about a rear strut bar, poly bushings all around, and you never said what kind of car you have, so you may not have a front sway bar.

looks to me like you're trying to build a show car.

well that's just my $0.02


Modified by jwn7 at 12:33 PM 1/17/2004

951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


how's the weather in never never land?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha. i agree with the statement on brake rotors, save your money and get a brembo kit, you dont need slots on those stock calipers. dont buy one of those sets of wheels and you're straight 8.

colt45.5

I chose some blingers for my whip.

The 17x7.5 le37 volk. They came to me cheap, and allready curbed. This way when i slam into a curb from learning, i can shrug it off. Haha.

Id get some cheap **** rotas. Some azenis tires, some autozone lifetime warranty ******* rotors, and some decent pads. Just beat the hell out of the ****, and return it for another set.

I tried the aem 4 pot porsche gig. All that does is turn a routine rotor replacement into a 500 dollar extraveganza. Junk that **** and run some rotors you can use and throw away. Unless your Taz Harvey and you have money hangin out the anus.


That suspension list seems to be the most expencive **** made in all categories. You could probably go buy a retired btcc car somehow for that, and save yourself alot of wasted effort.

Hatch-E

iTrader: (1)

"That's a Big List" ~ GN60

^R@m!r0_(M)

every one just has to throw in there 2 cents

i think thats a pretty nice setup i wouldnt do it my self but if you have the money do what you like. and most of these people are bias cause most of us dont have the luxury of throwing money at our car.

heel_touge

i talked to TEIN after i purchased my weak *** SS's. they said you can only move up 2K without having to be overhauled or revalved.


which leads me to believe they sent you the information for the SS dampers, which have rates of 8K in the front and 4K in the rear.

the FLEX have 9K in front and 5K in the rear. which means they can go to 11K and 7K without problems.

The Internet Tough Guy

yes, as i said i wasted money on the ss.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Tein Flex's can't handle those kinda rates, how do i know this? B/c i personally e-mailed Tein and asked them what the maximum spring rates they could handle... here is Tein's reply:

"In regards to your question. The Flex kit that we offers for the 1993 Civic will bolt on to your stock lower control arm without the need of a
replacement. The shock body is made out of steel with a Teflon coating on
the shell casing to prevent rust and corrosion. The maximum spring rates
that you can increase without the need of revalving is 10kg (559 lbs) in
front and 6KG (336 lbs) in the rear. Please contact anyone of our sales at
the office for further assistance.
Thank you for your interest in TEIN High Performance Suspension Products.


Staff @ TEIN USA INC.
9798 Firestone Blvd.
Downey, CA 90241
Phone: (562)633-7387
Fax: (562)633-7291
http://www.tein.com"

As you can see the Tein FLEX rear shocks can handle up to about half the maximum spring rates that the Koni Yellows can handle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you consider the maximum rates they can hold in rear, plus the cost of the stiffer springs you would need to buy seperate, the tein flex isn't even worth it either. unless you want to pay for a revalve job also, but by that time you could get some seriously nice struts / springs.

joe_bocc

I think that this is a well thought-out suspension set-up. Most of the products here I would like to have myself and in the near future I will.

1. Tein FLEX Kit: Yes there are cheaper coil-over set-up but this is still an awsome product for sure.

2. Comptech Sway Bar &Tie Bar Combo: Everyone I have ever known to have this kit has loved it.

3. Carbing Front strut bar: 3 mounting points, quality construction, and still looks good.

4. ITR 5-Lug Conversion: Brakes that were built for the ITR. Good enough reason for me. More weight bla bla bla...whats a few pounds for better brakes.

5. SRR Rear LCA: Reduces weight. If people tear out there headliner to save 1/8 lbs. then saving a couple pounds from the suspension is well worth it for $200.

6. Rays Locking/Extended Wheel Nuts: Light, strong, and helps prevent theft.

7. Earls SS brake lines: Spend all that money on brakes and still use rubber brake lines? These are a must.

8. Rotora Rotors: Sorry, its just beyond my reasoning to pay that much for a wear item such as brake rotors. Brembo Rotorsmakes sense to me, but that me.

9. Motul Brake Fluid: Good brake fluid is part of the basics.

10. Axis Metal Master brake pads: I've heard nothing but good things about these pads.

11,12,13. One good set of wheels, of course. Two good sets of wheels, OK. Three good sets of wheels, you must have money to burn.

14. Yokohama avs es100: Good tires are never a waist of money. Since they suit your budget, go for them.

This is all MY OPINION which is what you asked for. Since you are looking to sell your stock brakes, I happen to be some one with a Civic DX. I would be willing to buy them right away.

137

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In all honesty here.....

just about ALL of the parts you have listed, are overpriced and marginal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hence why I asked for peoples opinions on ****. I am not a skidpad expert, I just know a lot of people have been buzzing about this company and that company. And then some know it all is going to post something to gain my interest and then its on like donkey kong.

As you can see this is a fuckton of **** hence thats a fuckload of searching I would have to do to get an opinion on it. The koni ground control set up sounds nice but I wanted a all in one strut type of deal. I didnt really want to deal with ground controls.

But it seems its mainly the prefered medium of the skidpad folks, but im more worried its just because they are budget minded instead of actually having the money to get the parts they would really want to use.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not about spending the most money, it's about making everything work together and having a well balanced setup, and if you save money along the way, then even better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hence why I have not bought **** for the car!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why the Carbing bars, etc. Know exactly WHY it is you are buying what you are buying.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um have you seen that bar... maybe I am paying for blingage but something that bolts to your firewall, and to your suspension mounting points has to do something for chasis stiffness. Or Benen wouldnt of tried to waste their time copying the products.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you can explain to my how you can justify spending 472 bucks on rotors that won't help you stop anymore than 50 dollar Brembo blanks, than cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually cant justify the money for the rotora's I just want some discs under my wheels that are not going to look like they were make with pieces from the bottom of the queen mary.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to see reasons why YOU chose what you did and why YOU think it will work best with YOUR car, instead of just spending the most money possible...cause you're not impresing anyone here. Maybe in the ITR forum </TD></TR></TABLE>
Word of mouth, recommendations, highly requested ****. Thats pretty much it, hence this post, like I said before I didnt research ****.

colt45.5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 137 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

um have you seen that bar... maybe I am paying for blingage but something that bolts to your firewall, and to your suspension mounting points has to do something for chasis stiffness. Or Benen wouldnt of tried to waste their time copying the products. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be a dick but the firewall is a peice of tin right where the carbing "mounts" to. I like the Cusco cf bars better for rigidity(word?)Its not much cheaper. but over 250 is too much for a strut bar imo. Id just make one for more than that.

VX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 137 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The koni ground control set up sounds nice but I wanted a all in one strut type of deal. I didnt really want to deal with ground controls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please elaborate on this, what do you mean by you don't want to deal with ground control?

Are you referring to the products they produce, their customer service or what... b/c from my personal experience all the above (products & service) are top notch.

And why not mix and match shocks/sleeves/springs if it will save you a couple hundred bucks over Teins? It's only like a few mouse clicks/phone calls more effort than a one stop website like Tein.com or whatever.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 137 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But it seems its mainly the prefered medium of the skidpad folks, but im more worried its just because they are budget minded instead of actually having the money to get the parts they would really want to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe they are preferred b/c Koni yellows & G/C combo are a better coilover package than the over-priced Tein Flex's.

Here is my reasoning:
1. Koni Yellows & G/C combo are cheaper than Tein Type Flex's.

2. Koni Yellows & G/C combo can handle higher spring rates before needing a revalve job when compared to the Tein Type Flex's.

3. You can get custom spring rates suited to your driving style w/ the Koni Yellows & G/C combo instead of dishing out an additional $200 to Tein for the spring rates you want.

With that said...
I'm just curious exactly why you personally think the Tein Flex's are worth the extra bucks over Koni Yellows and Ground-Controls?

VX

And don't even mention the fact that the Tein Flex's are shortned.. b/c that doesn't even justify the price difference between the 2 set-ups.

With the price of the Tein Flex's alone, i could have gotten shortened & revalved Koni Yellows in conjunction w/ any spring rate out there w/ the Ground-Control sleeves.

Kengs

Wayne, just get whatever the hell YOU want.

Carbling bar is worth the money IMO

dyg2001

If you are truly interested in a good suspension setup for performance driving search the archives of the RR/Auto-X forum. Also ask the advice of people who know something about setting up Honda's, in other words, those who road race, drive on the track, or autocross. Do not rely on sources such as Super Street or the other "import racing" magazines (besides Grassroots Motorsports). Be humble and you may learn a thing or two and end up with a car that performs well.

Here's my EG setup:

Suspension:
AVO single-adjustable coilovers with 350 front/300 rear spring rates
Soon to be upgraded to Koni Yellows, double-adjustable, revalved, fronts shortened, with Ground Control sleeves, 450 front/600 rear springs
Front stock 92 Si swaybar
Comptech rear adjustable swaybar-tiebar combo
King Motorsports front and rear adjustable upper control arms (to adjust camber)
Select Mugen hard rubber suspension bushings including those for rear trailing arms
SRR rear lower control arms (purely bling)
Comptech front strut tower brace
Custom weld-in 8-point rollcage
King Motorsports corner weighting and autocross alignment

Wheels:
Rota Slipstream 15x6.5 and Kosei K1 15x7
Falken Azenis 205-50-15 for summer
Nokian Hakka-Q 195-55-15 for winter
Kumho Ecsta V700 205-50-50 for autocross
ARP extended wheel studs
If I get a 3rd wheelset for racing it will be something light and affordable like the Enkei RFP-1 or else a specialty US-made wheel like Circle, Kodiac, or Keizer in a wide size like 15x8

Brakes:
Prelude front 11" rotors redrilled 4x100
Prelude calipers machined to fit (same as ITR)
Stock Civic Si rear rotors and calipers
ITR 1" master cylinder & brake booster
Braided steel lines
Hawk HP-Plus brake pads or summer/auto-X
Motul brake fluid

While I am a motorsports novice I think the above setup is pretty decent for my application: street, autocross, and track days. The 450/600 spring rates would not be appropriate for a daily driver. Some items are not cheap, like the King rear upper control arms ($375), but that is a totally functional, professional racecar quality part (one could go cheaper with SRR). Other items are relatively inexpensive, like the Kosei K1 wheels (bought used), and the Prelude/ITR brake conversion.

In my opinion, all this talk of parts is pointless unless you plan on actually learning how to drive. Spending thousands of dollars on competition parts that will only be used for cruising around the streets and showing off is pretty pathetic. I enjoy cool parts and tuning my car but I know that only one thing--seat time--will make me a better driver.

Evs-One

That Carbing bar isn't even legal in most sanctioned events. The most useful bar I have EVER owned/used is the Neuspeed bar. Better then both generation Mugen bars, all shock tower bars, and 3 point bars. It bolts to the upper LCA's, a major part of your suspension, rather than the thin metal surrounding it.

I'll say it over and over again...those spring rates are garbage.

If you want a "full coilover" design, then opt got shortened Neuspeed Koni Yellows, custom rate Eibachs on GC sleeves, and the GC sleeve adapters to rid yourself of spring perches. Looks just like a "real" coilover, and will out perform and suit your needs much better.

And why are you acting all pissed off at people's suggestions? We're trying to help you out, not see some blingage being thrown around and your car still not handling up to par.

My hybrid front brake setup cost me well under 150 bucks, and my car stopped just as good as any stock ITR 5 lug swap. Same size calipers, rotors, MC, etc, and hmmm...a 1/10th of the price.

You got a lot of research to do....or just do it and post pics, and don't talk at how dissapointed you are

chillly

I agree with Emerika on the Neuspeed bar- one of the better suspension purchases I've made...

As far as your list is concerned, with all due respect I can't help but ask why you've even asked for an opinion on all of it. Everyone who's offered an opinion that doesn't praise you for your choices you've just shrugged off, so it seems to me that your mind is already made up.

Personally I think a good chunk of your list is just burning money on bling, but it's your money being burned, not mine, so who am I to judge? If your happy with the products you buy (no matter what you pay for them), then that's all that really matters, so more power to you

(Oh, and somebody mentioned poly bushings earlier- yes , just a bitch to install )

Just my $0.02 worth

SkyeC

137, us "skidpad" folks use the Koni/GC combo because it provides probably the best bang for the buck out there. It also provides for nearly unlimited upgradeability at decent prices. The only thing the FLEX's have that I can't have done to a Koni is the threaded shock body, so I can't have adjustable shock length. However, a *max* of 33x in the rear?! LOL. That alone would force me to spend money to have TEIN rebuild my shocks, then I'd have to shell out another $200 to get decent spring rates. That drives the price way closer to $2000 than I'd ever want to be at. Might as well get TEIN RAs which are actually damn nice.

Oh, and as far as "not wanting to mess with GCs," that is truly just a cop-out for wanting the prestige and handjobbing of pretty green shocks, it's okay to admit that's why you want them, just don't say silly **** like that. It takes all over 5 seconds to slide the Koni GC collar onto a Koni shock. You're not THAT busy, are you? Here are my Koni/GCs, what makes them so inferior looking to FLEX's?



I don't get it...

...does anyone know why my remote linked images are getting auto-cropped and making them look shitty? is it a honda-tech thing or is comcast making this happen? bleh.

clm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That Carbing bar isn't even legal in most sanctioned events.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe you're bumped into a Modified class with the SCCA and I don't think it's allowed in SCCA's IT or NASA's HC.